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Old April 10th, 2007, 06:59 AM   #1
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Default What's the best way to beef the rear for trailer towing?

I've got a 2004 Ram 4x4 quad cab and I just picked up a 27' travel trailer. I went all last summer pulling my old one with a saggy rear. What's the best way to beef up the rear suspension for pulling loads? I have seen alot about those air bags but I have not talked to anyone who has installed / used them.
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Old April 10th, 2007, 07:59 AM   #2
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No idea if you have a 1500, 2500, or 3500. I'm sure you can add overload springs to the 1500 or 2500. On my 3500, I just added a set of the Firestone airbags. They do NOT increase your load rating. They just make it more stable and gives you the ability to level out your trailer. The ride improves significantly. Just pay attention to your tire weight ratings and inflate them properly as well.
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Old April 10th, 2007, 08:31 AM   #3
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How about swapping in 2500 springs?


Does your truck have a factory rear sway bar?
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Old April 10th, 2007, 08:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camo-5 View Post
What's the best way to beef up the rear suspension for pulling loads?
Buy the correct truck for the application.



What do you have, a 1/2 ton I assume? I'd go airbags.
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Old April 10th, 2007, 10:02 AM   #5
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you can also put coil over shocks on it... and i hope you are running a load leveller setup... Makes the world of difference.

We used to tow a 31ft travel trailer with 1500 burbans and after putting coil over shocks and load leveller bars it towed fine.
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Old April 10th, 2007, 04:48 PM   #6
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Coilover shocks?

:tonka:
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Old April 10th, 2007, 05:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Coilover shocks?

:tonka:
made by gabriel, come in two common series , the 39000 and 41000 adds between 500-1100 lbs of capacity...
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Old April 10th, 2007, 09:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyPaws View Post
Coilover shocks?

:tonka:
ya just like air shock they put weight carrying load into spots not made for it. I've never used a set but bags sound like the best choise to me.
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Old April 11th, 2007, 02:19 PM   #9
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Oops! Sorry I forgot to mention it is a 1/2 ton w/Hemi. And yes, I am running a load leveling set-up.

Quote:
Buy the correct truck for the application.
I would love to be able to afford a 2500 or 3500, but that's not an option. My new trailer is well within the towing capacity of my 1/2 ton even at it's max GVWR.

Quote:
How about swapping in 2500 springs?
Does your truck have a factory rear sway bar?
Has anyone swapped in 2500 springs? That sounds like a pretty easy, maintenance free option. Not sure about the sway bar.....never paid attention....is it a good thing or bad?

I guess I'll start checking into bags.......

Thanks!
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Old April 11th, 2007, 02:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camo-5 View Post
Has anyone swapped in 2500 springs? That sounds like a pretty easy, maintenance free option. Not sure about the sway bar.....never paid attention....is it a good thing or bad?

I guess I'll start checking into bags.......

Thanks!
The rear sway bar will keep the rear from "wagging" as much, although its less of an issue on larger, longer vehicles. I thought I had read someplace that the current generation didn't have them in the rear.
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Old April 11th, 2007, 03:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camo-5 View Post
Oops! Sorry I forgot to mention it is a 1/2 ton w/Hemi. And yes, I am running a load leveling set-up.



I would love to be able to afford a 2500 or 3500, but that's not an option. My new trailer is well within the towing capacity of my 1/2 ton even at it's max GVWR.



Has anyone swapped in 2500 springs? That sounds like a pretty easy, maintenance free option. Not sure about the sway bar.....never paid attention....is it a good thing or bad?

I guess I'll start checking into bags.......

Thanks!


I WOULD LOOK AT HOW YOU ARE LOADING YOUR TRAILER. WHAT IS YOUR MAX TONG WEIGHT ? ? ?

I HAVE PUT TRAIL RIGS ON THE TRAILER BACKWARDS TO EVEN THE TRAILER OUT OR BACK THE RIG UP A LITTLE FROM WHERE YOU HAVE BEEN STRAPPING IT DOWN.
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Old April 12th, 2007, 06:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roll-bar Bob View Post
I WOULD LOOK AT HOW YOU ARE LOADING YOUR TRAILER. WHAT IS YOUR MAX TONG WEIGHT ? ? ?

I HAVE PUT TRAIL RIGS ON THE TRAILER BACKWARDS TO EVEN THE TRAILER OUT OR BACK THE RIG UP A LITTLE FROM WHERE YOU HAVE BEEN STRAPPING IT DOWN.
Are you suggesting he adjusts the camper on its frame to change the tongue weight???
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Old April 12th, 2007, 07:11 AM   #13
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I have airbags on my F-350 for when I put my camper in the bed. They work great. Have the in-cab compressor so I can adjust the amount of air in the bags while I drive. Been a couple years but I seem to remember they cost around 500 bucks with the incab controls. Think I got em from Summit.
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Old April 12th, 2007, 08:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScOoTeR View Post
Are you suggesting he adjusts the camper on its frame to change the tongue weight???
I think he means where they are putting gear, load more stuff to the back of the camper than the front kinda thing, balancing out the trailer will change the tong weight.

I know a guy that pulled a race car trailer with a 1500 Z71, he put the load leveling air bags on, then promptly bent the frame, if it sags too much and hits your current bump stops definitely look at how you are loading it and get a wet weight on it, tong and gross, if its still in specs the bags are good.

A compressor isn't required, the person I know that had them had a hose that came out by his plate and filled it with a regular air chuck when he needed to change them.
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Old April 12th, 2007, 10:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freak View Post
I think he means where they are putting gear, load more stuff to the back of the camper than the front kinda thing, balancing out the trailer will change the tong weight.

I think Scooter knows exactly what he means.
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Old April 13th, 2007, 07:06 AM   #16
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Wasn't suggesting that you need the compressor. I have mine hooked up so that I can fill them either way. Via the compressor or the outside air valve. The compressor is just a nice option in that you can adjust ride height while you drive.
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Old April 13th, 2007, 07:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freak View Post
I think he means where they are putting gear, load more stuff to the back of the camper than the front kinda thing, balancing out the trailer will change the tong weight.

I know a guy that pulled a race car trailer with a 1500 Z71, he put the load leveling air bags on, then promptly bent the frame, if it sags too much and hits your current bump stops definitely look at how you are loading it and get a wet weight on it, tong and gross, if its still in specs the bags are good.

A compressor isn't required, the person I know that had them had a hose that came out by his plate and filled it with a regular air chuck when he needed to change them.
YOU NAILED IT !!!

PACKING RIGHT CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE
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Old April 13th, 2007, 09:58 AM   #18
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:tonka: pack that ass eh?
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Old April 13th, 2007, 10:08 AM   #19
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i have a buddy that did the 2500 spring swap. he said was easy but he suggest a bigger rear sway bar.
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Old April 13th, 2007, 02:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
I think he means where they are putting gear, load more stuff to the back of the camper than the front kinda thing, balancing out the trailer will change the tong weight.
I usually do my best to load it evenly. I don't haul much extra wieght inside. I usually tow it with the water and poop tanks empty.

Quote:
if it sags too much and hits your current bump stops definitely look at how you are loading it and get a wet weight on it,
Even when loaded up, I still have plenty of travel in the rear suspension. It doesn't sag THAT much. I just want a level ride.....makes me look slighty less redneckish.....until they look in and see who's driving.....
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