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Old January 22nd, 2006, 09:33 PM   #1
Haggar
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Default XJ parts - Bumpers and Sliders..

This will take a few weeks until I'm done with everything, but I'm fabbing up new bumpers and sliders for my XJ.

This is a light duty wheeler, not planned to have a winch, although the bumper is stout enough that I could cut in a spot for a winchmount if i needed to in the future.

So far, I have the main body of the front bumper tacked together. The foundation is a piece of 2x6 C-channel, ~1/4" thick. The sides are tapered to 2" tall at each corner, and each side is bent back 1.5" to the rear (bent by scoring the bend line, heating, bending, then re-welding the score after it was where I wanted it). A piece of 1" thick flat bar(what I had on hand) was welded along the top the create a filler strip. It tapers to the rear 1/2" on each side.

From each corner, a piece of 2x2x0.250" wall square tube is used to protect the corners. This flares outward 1.5" on each side from the corners. A 30 degree cut on the rear just looks nice :p





There will be 1" thick x 2.5" tall D-ring tabs, with will go through the face, to have ~3" flat welded along the main bumper mounts, in addition to a large gusset, and being welded to the bumper face. Made from 1x2.5" flat stock, a chop saw, grinder, and my big drill press. Thats a 1" hole through them.

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Old January 22nd, 2006, 09:36 PM   #2
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I will be making the body mount brackets tomorrow. The bumper will mount to the body with two piece of 6" x 17" x 0.25" steel plate, each has 7 holes to bolt to the unibody (2 stock bumper mounts, 3 for steering box mounts {XJs were designed for RHD so there are steering box holes on the right side} and 2 additional holes in each frame rail). I will post a dimensioned drawing I found for these plates.

Theres a few other internal gussets I need to do, then grind it pretty and paint it. Hpoe to be done next weekend.

Then its on to a rear tow bumper, and sliders for the sides. Stay tuned...
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Old January 22nd, 2006, 11:57 PM   #3
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looking good! If you want to do a tubed brush gaurd, kinda like mine, lmk and I can give ya a hand with it.

Also, im not sure how you are going to do your rock sliders, but I am going to make some tubular ones for mine here real soon. We could work on them togather if ya wanted some help. My 110 mig isn't the greatest, but it works for taking stuff togather and I have the tube bender here too.
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Old January 23rd, 2006, 11:22 AM   #4
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Thanks, I'm happy so far how its come out.

I have a bender, I'm not sure yet if I'm going to add a brush guard or not. I'm tacking with my 110 MIg but will finish everything with my new 170 class 220.

My big thing is time.. getting these done in 2.5 weeks for a trip. I might skip the rear bumper for now....
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Old January 23rd, 2006, 11:44 AM   #5
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looks sweet Jesus . let me know when your done with those stock bumpers.
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Old January 23rd, 2006, 11:49 AM   #6
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Yep, I'm saving them for you :) Hopefully I'll get the front bumper on this weekend..
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Old January 28th, 2006, 07:55 PM   #7
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Did more work today since it was nice outside..

The rear bumper is delayed for now, running low on time.

The sliders are 75% built, I need to drilla bunch of holes, and paint. I'll post pics of those later..


OK, on with the bumper:

Today I pulled the stock bumper off the Jeep and kind of set the new one there just to make sure it looked OK and fit.

Seems to fit OK to me. (Its just resting there so its not quite centered...)



Next up, I fabbed up the mounting plates. These are made from 6" wide, 0.250" thick plate, each piece is 14" long. They have 6 bolts per side, three in each side's steering box bracket holes, and the three bolts that hold the stock bumper brackets on. I think this is good. Some people add a 7th bolt 4 inches back, I felt it was fine without.



Here you can see the mounting plate welded in place, as well as you can see the D-ring tab. Notice that the 'tab' is actualy 6" long, and extends through the bumper so that its welded all along the mounting plates, as well as being welded to the face of the bumper. Plenty strong.



Here's the bumper from the front.




I wire wheeled and flap disked it, so it is semi smooth and no sharp corners. Its getting its first coat of paint in the garage right now. Hopefully I will have all the paint done tomorrow and will install it monday night :-)
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Old January 28th, 2006, 10:52 PM   #8
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cool,

may be building something similar to that for a friend soon.

whats the key to getting the d-ring holes to line up? just measure twice cut once?

and also is a 3" grinder the best way to making the opening besides using a plasma?


good looking bunper




Ty
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Old January 29th, 2006, 08:50 AM   #9
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For the holes, what I did was this:

I have the centerline marked front and back, drew out where the box needed to be, then used a drill to punch the corners of the cutout area. I scored the lines with my 4.5" grinder(only size I have at the moment) which accomplished about 75% of the cutting, then finished with my saber saw with a metal blade. The saber saw is slow but nicely controlled and squares up the corners well.

I bet a 2" cutting disc on a long snout die grinder would rip it out fastest.
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Old February 3rd, 2006, 08:45 PM   #10
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Here you can find the mounting plate file:

http://greatlakes4x4.com/showthread....2086#post52086
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Old February 5th, 2006, 12:31 PM   #11
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Here's the finished product on the Jeep. It really improved the front approach angle. Those are the factory fog lights, they suck, but I reused them until I get around to buying something else(spent way too much money this week on other maintenance stuff). I set them up for a different light pattern than normal, thats why they are angled funny..



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Old February 5th, 2006, 01:06 PM   #12
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looks vary nice
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Old February 8th, 2006, 05:56 AM   #13
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looks really good
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Old February 8th, 2006, 09:50 AM   #14
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Thanks!

I had hoped to have the sliders and rear bumper done but have been working on house projects. Sometime I'll finish them. They are together, I just need to clamp everything to the Jeep for fitment and finish welding.

Between the steel, bolts, paint, I'd say I have $125-$150 into the whole project. About $75-$100 in steel, $40 in bolts, $10 in paint.
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Old March 13th, 2007, 08:46 PM   #15
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i just bought a two door xj and want to build a winch bumper and have a stinger hoop and all that good stuff but in the treads iv read no one realy said how they are mounting them to the fame maybe im missing the obvious but how do u do that just drill and tap the frame where the mounting plate would be and line up or is there a trick newbies dont know yet jw so i can try and figure out what i want to do i think im going to plate the fram somewhat but not sure about if it will be up front so any suggestions or answers would be nice thanks
drew
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Old March 14th, 2007, 10:50 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by drew91xj View Post
i just bought a two door xj and want to build a winch bumper and have a stinger hoop and all that good stuff but in the treads iv read no one realy said how they are mounting them to the fame maybe im missing the obvious but how do u do that just drill and tap the frame where the mounting plate would be and line up or is there a trick newbies dont know yet jw so i can try and figure out what i want to do i think im going to plate the fram somewhat but not sure about if it will be up front so any suggestions or answers would be nice thanks
drew
IIRC if you follow Jesus 's mounting plate it lines up with holes that are already existing. Also, just for future reference, XJ's don't have frames, they are unibodies.
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Mine is just sloppy
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Old March 14th, 2007, 11:02 AM   #17
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Yeah. Heck, there's even a link to a CAD drawing of where the holes go. I didn't drill any holes in the unibody, they were already there. several of them are the mounting holes for the steering box. (and the cherokee is designed for RHD, so at least on the newer versions, has the mounting holes on the right side 'rail' as well).
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Old April 17th, 2007, 11:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnlyInMyXJ22 View Post
Also, just for future reference, XJ's don't have frames, they are unibodies.
They do have frames, and they are welded to the body.

It's called a unibody because the body is permanently attached to the frame (welded).
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Old April 17th, 2007, 12:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor Slut View Post
They do have frames, and they are welded to the body.

It's called a unibody because the body is permanently attached to the frame (welded).
Well, they have structures that are basically frame rails. Unibody isn't per se a body married/welded to a frame, its a body that is designed to be a structural member itself. So items like the A/B/C pillars, roof structure, etc now play a much greater role in chassis stiffness. Hacking off the entire upper body structure would weaken the average unibody vehicle, even if the lower frame sections are untouched, whereas taking off the upper half od a body-on-frame construction wouldn't diminish the load capacity of the chassis itself.


What made you drag this old post up?
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Old April 17th, 2007, 10:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Well, they have structures that are basically frame rails. Unibody isn't per se a body married/welded to a frame, its a body that is designed to be a structural member itself. So items like the A/B/C pillars, roof structure, etc now play a much greater role in chassis stiffness. Hacking off the entire upper body structure would weaken the average unibody vehicle, even if the lower frame sections are untouched, whereas taking off the upper half od a body-on-frame construction wouldn't diminish the load capacity of the chassis itself.


What made you drag this old post up?
I 100% agree with you. But the common misconception is that the term unibody means there is no frame. I am tired of people being misled by false assumptions.

The thing to note is that the XJ, unibody and all, was a 4 door wagon with the same driveline as the YJ/TJ and a much better interior, yet it weighed on average 100lbs less. This is because the unibody construction made it stiffer and stronger as a whole than the body on frame construction of the Wranglers. The body on the Wranglers, to a small degree, was structural as well. Anything that is bolted down can add strength and be considered structural.
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