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Old February 13th, 2007, 06:13 PM   #1
shmler
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Default Dodge Dana 44 questions

I've got the chance to get a dana 44, or what I believe to be a dana 44 out of a mid 80's ramchager. The problem I am seeing with this axle is that it has vacum operated hubs. I've searched google some, but haven't found a conclusive answer....

Can I swap out these hubs and be okay? Or is there more to the story?

The axle would be going in a CJ-7 that is getting a ford 9 inch in the back.

If there is more to it please inform me, as I am trying to learn now before I make a bad purchase.

Thanks,

Michael
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Old February 13th, 2007, 07:42 PM   #2
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I think you mean it has a CAD (center axle disconnect), not vacuum-operated hubs. In that case, replaceing the hubs won't keep you from having to engage the CAD to be in 4wd. It would only gain you the ability to freewheel the front.

Last edited by PävementPounder; February 13th, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old February 13th, 2007, 10:39 PM   #3
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I bet you are right. It has vacum lines that ran from the T-case to the center of the axle. So is there a way around that, or am I thinking to hard and should just look somewhere else?
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Old February 13th, 2007, 10:52 PM   #4
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You said there is a problem. Is it not working?
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Old February 13th, 2007, 11:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmler View Post
I bet you are right. It has vacum lines that ran from the T-case to the center of the axle. So is there a way around that, or am I thinking to hard and should just look somewhere else?
1. you could buy manual hubs and put those inplace of the solid lock piece in the hub now and lock that front vacuum fork over to lock the shafts together for good.

2. find the long drivers side shaft from a chevy D44 and put that in, in place of the vac disco setup but you might and to change the seal surface like to where the chevy style is on the other side of the carrier bearing for that side. and still use manual hubs for mile marker hubs they are PT# 302.

there might be some more options but theres a start
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Old February 14th, 2007, 08:29 AM   #6
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PP the axle I was told is still good, but I have no idea about the CAD thing. I was kind of hoping for a regular twist the hubs and push the t-case lever.

Chop- thanks for the that start. I think google and I have another date night coming.

Michael
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Old February 14th, 2007, 02:38 PM   #7
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I took the vacuum Cylinder out of mine, put a grade 8 bolt in place of it with two jam nuts to hold the shift fork over to "Engaged" and sealed it up with Quicksteel and silicone. I put on a set of lockouts and Ive had no probs running 35s in the mud
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Old February 14th, 2007, 04:47 PM   #8
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Now that is interesting Mopars4life. That is what I was courious about, if you could just bypass the vacum.

This axle maybe worth the cheap price tag.
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Old February 16th, 2007, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chop View Post
1. you could buy manual hubs and put those inplace of the solid lock piece in the hub now and lock that front vacuum fork over to lock the shafts together for good.

2. find the long drivers side shaft from a chevy D44 and put that in, in place of the vac disco setup but you might and to change the seal surface like to where the chevy style is on the other side of the carrier bearing for that side. and still use manual hubs for mile marker hubs they are PT# 302.

there might be some more options but theres a start


Been there tried that. Chevy 44 shafts, at least the ones I had, weren't the same length as Dodges. You could use the long side shaft from a Dodge that didn't have the CAD but then the housing isn't machined for a seal by the carrier bearings. On a CAD set up the seal and a extra bearing are at the end of the tube by the inner knuckle. The only way I have personally seen it work is a guy from work sent the 2 piece axles to Moser and had then make a one piece for him. Which sounded cool until the weak housing bent at the CAD point anyway.
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Old February 16th, 2007, 04:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8pvmnt View Post
Been there tried that. Chevy 44 shafts, at least the ones I had, weren't the same length as Dodges. You could use the long side shaft from a Dodge that didn't have the CAD but then the housing isn't machined for a seal by the carrier bearings. On a CAD set up the seal and a extra bearing are at the end of the tube by the inner knuckle. The only way I have personally seen it work is a guy from work sent the 2 piece axles to Moser and had then make a one piece for him. Which sounded cool until the weak housing bent at the CAD point anyway.
yeah i was not positive that would work but. thanks for the info though.
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Old February 16th, 2007, 04:27 PM   #11
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pretty easy to bypass the cad system and use manual hubs

pull the vacuum motor off the axle and look at the shift fork. there is a c-clip on either side of the shift fork-remove the c-clip on the right/passenger side and slide the shift fork all the way to the right and re-install the c-clip. the fork will then be permanently engaged and you'll be able to use manual hubs.

here's another forum thread w/ a few pics thought it might help you
http://www.ramchargercentral.com/boa...2573.msg356962

Last edited by rustcharger; February 16th, 2007 at 04:38 PM.
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Old February 17th, 2007, 08:37 PM   #12
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Thanks eveyone for the information. I won't cross the axle off as a possiblity, but it also sounds like there are better choices out there. How ever if I can get the axle for like $50 then I think I will and try to figure out a solid way to make it work in the heep project.

Thanks again,
Michael
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