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Old January 28th, 2007, 10:39 PM   #1
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Default 383 stroker build, engine gurus needed

Im building a 383 stroker motor for my TJ and I need some advice. Here is what I have planned so far. I plan on using an Eagle 383 stroker kit, Gm Performance Fast Burn heads, Edelbrock Pro-flo EFI, a good torque cam...
Now I have some questions about the difference between 1 and 2 piece rear main seals and which one is better. Also what are the usual machining costs associated with building a 383 stoker block.

I wonder if it would be easier and more cost effictive to go this route http://www.strokerkits.com/specials.htm
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Old January 29th, 2007, 08:28 AM   #2
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By the time you buy all your parts... pay to have your machine work done, Learn about what you are doing. (I know that is part of the learning) If you had a good base to work with and were just adding parts building a stroker is the way to go. Since you want those specifics in your motor. And going to have pretty close to the same amount of $$ I would just go with this Delivered and ready to go. Sell the intake and bolt on your FI http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...49878_-1_10763
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Old January 29th, 2007, 09:03 AM   #3
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Old January 29th, 2007, 09:58 AM   #4
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Are you hard/fast set on a 383 and/or a 0 miles engine?

For the $6000-$7000 those engine choices will cost you, you should have no trouble finding a lower mileage LS1 based motor..

If you went with either an LS1 / LS2 / LS6 / LS7 you'd be aluminum block and save 100+ lbs over the 383.

Or the Iron Block LQ4/LQ9 6.0 liters would be good too.

I'm looking into an aluminum 5.3 or LS1 for my flatfender to get the power without a ton of weight. Iron block 5.3s can be had in Michigan for under $1000.


All of the LS1 family (except the 4800) use a 3.622" stroke which is longer than a stock 350's 3.48", and close to a 383's 3.75". You can stroke an LS1 to 4.00", as well, which doesn't need to have the block notched like a 350.

For $6000, buy an LS1 for like $2000, $2000 more for a stroker crank, rods/pistons, and spend the last $2000 for a new cam, computer reflash, wiring, and to assemble it. Torque monster, and lighter than a 4.0.

Just another option.
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Old February 4th, 2007, 04:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skooter_Built View Post
Now I have some questions about the difference between 1 and 2 piece rear main seals and which one is better. Also what are the usual machining costs associated with building a 383 stoker block.
The block will dictate what style seal it uses, the one pc. seal is better.

Machining cost vary, but remember you get what you pay for. The cheapest place may not be the place to go.

If you will be doing all the assembly work you can expect to spend between
400-700.

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