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Old February 26th, 2007, 08:32 PM   #21
sglide
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They were running full purge on all the chromemolies, so that helped.
if they went purging the stainless then its couldnt be a very strict xray code
with out back gas on ss the bead sugars and show dark black on xray.
were theys union boys?
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Old February 26th, 2007, 08:37 PM   #22
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Usually use a 3/32 to 1/8 gap, depends on what the welder wants. Not exactly sure what the bevel degree is, got a little tool to check it with when I have to grind it on.
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Old February 26th, 2007, 08:45 PM   #23
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I am mainly talking about the tig I helped with at the refineries, not much stainless going in there. Either carbon steel (sticked) or a chromemoly which is either tigged all the way out or tigged the 1st 2 passes and sticked out. Depends on the % of chrome.
You will see sugaring on the chrome also if it doesn't have a good purge, I know because I am the one that would grind it out.

Oh, and yeah they would be union as am I.
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Old February 26th, 2007, 09:24 PM   #24
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I am mainly talking about the tig I helped with at the refineries, not much stainless going in there. Either carbon steel (sticked) or a chromemoly which is either tigged all the way out or tigged the 1st 2 passes and sticked out. Depends on the % of chrome.
You will see sugaring on the chrome also if it doesn't have a good purge, I know because I am the one that would grind it out.

Oh, and yeah they would be union as am I.
great now i have to beg my boss for moly pipe so i can see if it fisheyes whithout being able to dump freq
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Old March 7th, 2007, 04:38 AM   #25
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it doesn't fish eye if you start it right. it takes a steady hand, but you can get the arc to start without actually touching. you just need to stay at start a little while longer to build your heat before you start. i actually had this setup in my garage with a harbor freight ac/dc stick welder, tig torch, and a bottle. my welds never had to pass, but I worked with plenty of guys whose did, and this was the only setup the company had. no aluminum though with this, in case you didnt realize.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 08:06 PM   #26
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it doesn't fish eye if you start it right. it takes a steady hand, but you can get the arc to start without actually touching. you just need to stay at start a little while longer to build your heat before you start. i actually had this setup in my garage with a harbor freight ac/dc stick welder, tig torch, and a bottle. my welds never had to pass, but I worked with plenty of guys whose did, and this was the only setup the company had. no aluminum though with this, in case you didnt realize.
the fish eye dosnt happen on start up. it happens when you break arc without being able to cool down with sheilding.
the only issue with start up is pos. breaking part of the tungston off in your puddle.
as far as a steady hand???? there is no way you will make arc without the tungston tuching without a high freq box. it dosnt have to tuch much but contact has to be made.


as far as passing x-ray, i asked the code inspector about this and this is what he told me "if the inspector and x-ray tec know that this is the set up you are running they know that there is know way you can pass cleanly (it cant be done) they will moddify the code to allow for a certain percentage and type of flaws in the weld profile as they are un avoidable whit the equip. available.
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Old March 25th, 2010, 05:39 PM   #27
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the fish eye dosnt happen on start up. it happens when you break arc without being able to cool down with sheilding.
the only issue with start up is pos. breaking part of the tungston off in your puddle.
as far as a steady hand???? there is no way you will make arc without the tungston tuching without a high freq box. it dosnt have to tuch much but contact has to be made.


as far as passing x-ray, i asked the code inspector about this and this is what he told me "if the inspector and x-ray tec know that this is the set up you are running they know that there is know way you can pass cleanly (it cant be done) they will moddify the code to allow for a certain percentage and type of flaws in the weld profile as they are un avoidable whit the equip. available.
you dont have to touch the tungsten to start the arc all you gotta do is scratch start i do it all the time and you keep a nice sharp point on the electrode
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Old March 26th, 2010, 09:32 AM   #28
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you dont have to touch the tungsten to start the arc all you gotta do is scratch start i do it all the time and you keep a nice sharp point on the electrode
that would require touching the work piece
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Old March 26th, 2010, 11:44 AM   #29
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thats hard to say, things may have changed in the last three years since this thread was active.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 04:59 PM   #30
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as far as passing x-ray, i asked the code inspector about this and this is what he told me "if the inspector and x-ray tec know that this is the set up you are running they know that there is know way you can pass cleanly (it cant be done) they will moddify the code to allow for a certain percentage and type of flaws in the weld profile as they are un avoidable whit the equip. available.
lol, modify the code? Hope the weld doesn't fail and lawsuits start rollin in! I can see them in the code book...scribbling over numbers and putting in their own! But in all seriousness... that is a great idea for a low buck tig setup, good job!
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Old April 13th, 2010, 05:09 PM   #31
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There is a lot of stoopid in this thread! You can pass any pipe test with a setup like this, I have done it! My welds shot 100 percent! I have used it on x ray jobs also. Miller dialarc 250 with an air cooled torch. When you tail out you speed up and when your puddle disappears you pull out, it looks like a long V. You grind all your starts and when you light up you just have to be easy on the tungston. No one that welds pipe in the field uses a foot pedal or thumb switch.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 05:27 PM   #32
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im certed up to 6" thick stainless pipe and it would not pass our process test
Yes it would, you just have to know how to use it!
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Old April 13th, 2010, 05:49 PM   #33
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not to hijack the thread but what did you do to the frame? i couldnt really see but it looks like a 500? did you kong it?
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