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Old January 15th, 2007, 06:58 PM   #1
snocross2xtremes
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Default new to the yota game got a problem with my 4x4

i have a 94 yota pick up truck i bought for 800 bucks ruff but no rust.. has some 33 inch ats no lift.. that i can see... um when u put it in 4 wheel drive the light come on but no 4 wheel drive.. so i jack up all 4 tires then put it in 4 wheel drive.. the drive shaft spins.. but the cv shafts dont.. but when u lock the hubs in and spin the tire by hand the cv shafts spin.. so im thinking i have a problem with the diff.. ring &pinnion or spyders gears.. or is there some thing else like a vac dissconnet or somthing.. ?
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Old January 15th, 2007, 07:49 PM   #2
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COPIED DIRECTLY FROM HERE http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#front


'86-95 IFS trucks, 1st and 2nd gen 4Runners, and all '93-98 T100s use a 7.5" front diff that is offset to the passenger's side. Later models came with ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) which uses a vacuum actuated mechanism to disconnect the drivers side axle shaft from the differential. Carriers and gear sets are interchangeable between the two different versions (and also happen to be the same as used in the 2wd Toyota pickup 7.5" diffs). One difference between ADD and non-ADD diffs is that the carrier in an ADD differential has needle bearings supporting the axle shafts at the differential. The non-ADD diffs did not have this bearing and sometimes the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage. ADD and non-ADD diffs are swappable as are most of their parts. This makes it possible to change your ADD diff to non-ADD by simply swapping parts as I've done in the picture to the right. This is desirable to some people since some of the ADD stubs are smaller diameter than the non-ADD stubs and are therefore slightly weaker.

that article links to here for troubleshooting ADD http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/add/
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Old January 15th, 2007, 07:50 PM   #3
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(search www.yotatech.com for good yota info :) )
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Old January 16th, 2007, 02:44 PM   #4
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you have a vacume problem most likely........I had a 94 that did the same thing.........all i did is take the hose off the port it was on up by the intake and move it to another port that was not being used.......4x4 then worked fine.
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Old January 16th, 2007, 03:58 PM   #5
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cool sounds like a ez fix.. but my bro just call me and said my clutch took a shit...
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Old January 18th, 2007, 05:52 PM   #6
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hmm i was screw around with my truck today.. and it was just bad slave cylinder for the clutch so that was a ez fix.. but then i was lookin for the vacc dissconnect thing and it doesnt have one.. so i was screw around more lookin at the cv and the one on the pass side moves up down at the diff.. im guessing somthign in side the diff took a shit.. so fix it or replace the center diff?
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Old January 18th, 2007, 10:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snocross2xtremes View Post
hmm i was screw around with my truck today.. and it was just bad slave cylinder for the clutch so that was a ez fix.. but then i was lookin for the vacc dissconnect thing and it doesnt have one.. so i was screw around more lookin at the cv and the one on the pass side moves up down at the diff.. im guessing somthign in side the diff took a shit.. so fix it or replace the center diff?
yeah..........i re-read yur first post...........you have lockouts so there is no vacume.............my bad.


I would tear the diff apart and see what exactly is wrong and make a determination on what to do from there.
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Old January 18th, 2007, 11:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
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yeah..........i re-read yur first post...........you have lockouts so there is no vacume.............my bad.


I would tear the diff apart and see what exactly is wrong and make a determination on what to do from there.

well the problem is its a dd so i cant have it down.. for more then a day but when i get my jeep back together i will rip it open
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Old January 19th, 2007, 06:23 AM   #9
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the entire front end is usually tossed aside for anyone doing a sas, so maybe you can just pick up a free to cheap spare and just swap diffs then try the 4x4
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Old January 19th, 2007, 01:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
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well the problem is its a dd so i cant have it down.. for more then a day but when i get my jeep back together i will rip it open
if you have manual hubs, take the diff out. tie the cv axles out of the way and drive it. I drove my 4Runner like that for a week before I could get the oilpan leak fixed.

seriously 3 bolts and 12 axle nuts a floor jack and it's out. all you need is a few metric wrenches a jack and couple prybars.
the front bolt is last to come out and the first to go in.
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Old January 21st, 2007, 03:35 PM   #11
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if you have manual hubs, take the diff out. tie the cv axles out of the way and drive it. I drove my 4Runner like that for a week before I could get the oilpan leak fixed.

seriously 3 bolts and 12 axle nuts a floor jack and it's out. all you need is a few metric wrenches a jack and couple prybars.
the front bolt is last to come out and the first to go in.

cool sounds ez! next weekend project.. um is there tag on the axle that say what gears i have i found a diff with 410s..
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Old January 21st, 2007, 04:21 PM   #12
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cool sounds ez! next weekend project.. um is there tag on the axle that say what gears i have i found a diff with 410s..
if it's a 5speed it'll have 4.10's if it's an auto 4.30's

see this page for more info, this guy is a Yota Guru. Brian\\\\\\\\\\'s site
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Old January 21st, 2007, 09:07 PM   #13
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I think we have a front diff at the shop. What gear ratio is it?
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Old January 22nd, 2007, 12:06 AM   #14
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410 i belive..
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Old February 24th, 2007, 11:13 PM   #15
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Well we got down to tearing it down and found out that the flange the Pass. side CV shaft bolts to is stripped out inside the Spider gear. does anyone know if you can just pick these up at a local auto parts store? Otherwise i will prob either weld the spiders and run 3wd or or just stay with the 2wd.

Thanks
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