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Old December 30th, 2006, 08:54 PM   #1
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what would be better, a mig welder or an arc(that's also called stick right??) i'll be using it occassionally for shock/spring mounts, maybe some body panel work, also may do tubing/bumpers.
i just want a "cheapie" for around $300. (i know, won't get anything sweet for that price) also don't have a 220volt outlet.
here's the one i was looking at....

http://www.toolking.com/category/pro...nextag=500487R

thanks!
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Old December 30th, 2006, 08:58 PM   #2
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i got a miller 135 and it welds up to a 1/4 inch u want to get some thing that will weld thicker stuff and if u wnat to do shock mounts u want a good weld so buy a good welder and never buy again
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Old December 30th, 2006, 09:09 PM   #3
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i'm only going to have around $300 though :-( what is better, stick or mig??
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Old December 30th, 2006, 09:11 PM   #4
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hobart is made by miller so go hobart mig is more versital than ark
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Old December 30th, 2006, 09:57 PM   #5
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For that price, go with a wire-feed welder (what you'd consider a MIG), but just use flux core wire, instead of worrying about a regulator and tanks.

You can get one around $300. Try www.toolking.com, for hobarts.

I personally used a 110v Lincoln wire feed for many years, with good results.

If you are using a 110v welder, you can do most anything you need on a Jeep or other 4x4, other than heavy things like welding spider gears, and thick weld-on D-ring tabs (In my opinion, anyway).

The key to success with a smaller welder is:

1) Clean all metal well
2) Get your joints tight fitting. Don't try to fill gaps with weld.
3) Bevel the joint edges, that lets you get a bit further into the metal for better penetration.
4) Design things with extra weld area when possible for critical stuff. For example, I make my own D-ring tabs that are long. I cut a rectangular hole in both sides of the bumper tube, and run the tab all the way through. So its welded on the front and the back surfaces for more strength.


Flux Core wire in 0.035" is what you want, for the best possible penetration from a 110v machine. I still use that on my 220v lincoln.

Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart all make good 110v wire feed units. You can find them often on ebay from someone local for $300 or less, especially lincolns, as they are the most common. Home Depot sells consumables for Lincoln, the Miller and Hobarts will require you to go to a welding shop to get tips, usually.
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Old December 30th, 2006, 10:58 PM   #6
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i have the hobart handler 140 (i thiink thats it) its the biggest 110v mig the make. i like it alot it works great for most of the stuff i do. anything bigger i just take to work. i got mine through TSC but lots of places sell them. hobart is made buy miller. the lincoln is alot like the hobart as far as internal parts are plastic insted of cast or whatever,but the hobart use miller tips and such
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Old December 31st, 2006, 08:55 AM   #7
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i was thinking the hobart i was looking at would be good enough for what i want to do; just wanted some other opinions. thanks guys.
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Old December 31st, 2006, 09:21 AM   #8
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i have the hobart handler 140 (i thiink thats it) its the biggest 110v mig the make. i like it alot it works great for most of the stuff i do. anything bigger i just take to work. i got mine through TSC but lots of places sell them. hobart is made buy miller. the lincoln is alot like the hobart as far as internal parts are plastic insted of cast or whatever,but the hobart use miller tips and such

Depends on what you get. The models they sell at home depot and lowes have some cheaper parts in them, compared with what is on the higher end versions.

Myself, I bought a home depot 110v lincon, used it for 6 years, and sold it for 75% of the purcahse price. You'll be able to sell any of them for a good price when you are ready to move up.

Now I'm using a Lincoln 175 amp class 220 v machine, which only cost me $100 more than my 11v machine. There is a big difference in power, for sure. I got mine in unused condition on ebay.
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Old December 31st, 2006, 03:59 PM   #9
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Lowes sells a Lincoln 175HD for $599
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Old December 31st, 2006, 06:10 PM   #10
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Not to jack the thread but I have a 130amp Clarke ark and I've had no issues but I havn't started my bumpers yet either, so far it's been a good welder. Any thoughts on this one?
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Old December 31st, 2006, 09:53 PM   #11
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Not to jack the thread but I have a 130amp Clarke ark and I've had no issues but I havn't started my bumpers yet either, so far it's been a good welder. Any thoughts on this one?
What about it? Clarke is a cheaper brand. Just depends on your luck, really. Lots of cheap stuff works for lots of people. Some break, and those people hate them. Luck of the draw.

130 amp class machines ought to be just fine for light fab, as noted.
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Old December 31st, 2006, 09:56 PM   #12
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Lowes sells a Lincoln 175HD for $599
I got my Lincoln SP175 for $400

The HD model is the cheapest, as uses some cheaper components, like aluminum wire in the transformers, instead of the copper on better models.

Actually, Lincoln doesn't even acknowledge the HD models in their website.

The SP175+ is the best, which allows variable settings. For power, I don't see it being a huge deal for having taps, but definately for wire speed, you should be fully variable. I have 5 voltage taps on mine, and just use my wirespeed and stickout to fine tune the heat.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 04:57 AM   #13
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could you "upgrade" the wiring and re-wire w/ copper; or is it wiring deep inside that shouldn't be messed w/?
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Old January 1st, 2007, 10:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwBOY View Post
hobart is made by miller so go hobart mig is more versital than ark
this is only the opinoin of someone that welds every day for a living but mig is no way more vers. than stick just the opposite. its a mith that you cant weld thin shit w/stick we do it all the time in the field.


yes you can weld almost anything on a wheeler w/fluxcore 110 wire but it isnt the rite way to do it and unless its a body pannal. the problem w/hard wire is the improper penitration, improper fusion, and trapped slag, and it dosnt like vibration or move ment of anykind.
for a garage welder i would go with a buz box for about 200 and spend what you have left to have a 220 outlet installed
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Old January 1st, 2007, 11:19 AM   #15
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haggar. lincoln tips and wire work just fine in hobart and miller machines so you can get consumables for all three at home depot.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 03:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sglide View Post
this is only the opinoin of someone that welds every day for a living but mig is no way more vers. than stick just the opposite. its a mith that you cant weld thin shit w/stick we do it all the time in the field.


yes you can weld almost anything on a wheeler w/fluxcore 110 wire but it isnt the rite way to do it and unless its a body pannal. the problem w/hard wire is the improper penitration, improper fusion, and trapped slag, and it dosnt like vibration or move ment of anykind.
for a garage welder i would go with a buz box for about 200 and spend what you have left to have a 220 outlet installed


amen to that sglide -

if you could only have one, stick would be the way to go for pure functionality. theres alot to be said for learning on a machine and getting it down tight before moving into other things. dont be fooled by the little crappy selection of rods and brushes at your local home builders store. theres a ton of rod sizes, temps, types, etc. and you can do different materials in a snap whereas if you were in mig land youd be buying spools, another tank and sometimes drive wheels and tips just to go from mild to ss.

you can do alot for very little money with a stick
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Old January 1st, 2007, 07:01 PM   #17
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With the above said were in that would my 130amp 110v stick rank, is it worth using to make bumpers, cages and such? It's rated up to 1/4" thick.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 07:46 PM   #18
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With the above said were in that would my 130amp 110v stick rank, is it worth using to make bumpers, cages and such? It's rated up to 1/4" thick.
Have you welded with it?

It should answer your own question. If you've welded with it, cut a few open, and looked at the weld quality and penetration, that will tell you how good it is.

Its more about your skill, than the welder. Cage material is 1/8" thick, which more or less anything can handle..... if you know how to weld, and how to cut tight fitting pieces.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 08:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
It's rated up to 1/4" thick.
remember to weigh that against the duty cycle. as a unit gets hot, its power drops off - yet it appears to be working the same.

like Jesus said you got a cut one to know.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 11:10 PM   #20
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remember to weigh that against the duty cycle. as a unit gets hot, its power drops off - yet it appears to be working the same.

like Jesus said you got a cut one to know.
yup.
in every code test ive had to take even when the x-rayyour weld they still cut 1" x 3" strips out look them over then bend them in half looking for cracks.
im certed to 6" thick stainless pipe and it still makes my ass pucker when they do it.
but cutting one (or many is the only way you will know whats going on in you weld puddle untill you have lotts of exp.
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