|December 29th, 2006, 07:41 PM||#1|
Join Date: 12-28-06
How to build a doubler
Want a final crawl ratio of 85 with 3.73s for your Ranger, Explorer, or BII? Want to laugh at people with 5.13s? Here's how to make a doubler case out of a BW1350 that will go in front of the existing BW1354
What you will need:
12"x12"x1/2" sheet of steel plate
BW 1350 manual shift t-case
RBV (ranger-based vehicle) 4x4 output shaft
6 3/8" grade 8 bolts, 1.5" long 16 pitch thread
Transfer case skid plate
Obviously you'll need shop tools like a grinder, drill, etc. and products like RTV, brake parts cleaner, JB weld, etc. You need a 3/8" tap and a 5" hole saw. If you plan on lengthening and shortening your driveshafts yourself, you'll need a chopsaw and a welder. You'll also need a nearby shop with a metal lathe and a arbor press.
The first step is to take the 1350 case and take it apart/split it. You only need the front half with the planetary set and shifting linkage. The sector shaft and your 4x4 output you'll take to a machine shop and have them do this:
This is the machined sector shaft with a 4x4 output pressed on.
The next step is to cut the front output off of the case.
The planetary set is installed in the case, seeing where to drill holes.
Drilling and tapping holes for bolts to attach case bosses. 5" hole has been cut out. Whew!! My drill caught on fire trying to cut that hole.
Case attached to plate.
All the internals (shift fork, sector shaft, etc.) installed.
Lining up front plate of the t-case that will bolt onto the doubler assembly.
Lines created for the shaving process.
This is not a complete guide but should give you a good idea of the overall process. Enjoy!
Some grinding on the existing 1354 transfer case front
Shave/trim the plate
Make drain/fill plugs
Drill and tap holes to attach 1354 t-case to doubler