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Old December 26th, 2006, 11:56 PM   #1
JohnnyJ
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Default Using Chevy 1/2t backing plates on a 9" or semifloat D60

I was looking through some threads on pirate4x4 and came across this one:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121194

Basically, the guy took a 9" with big bearing ford ends and modified a backing plate from a 1/2-ton chevy to fit. From there he used ford rotors and 1/2-ton chevy calipers to complete the disk brake conversion.

My current setup is a Dana 60 from a 74 Dodge 3/4-ton 2wd that we switched over to a semifloating setup using Moser big bearing ford ends. It's got 4.88s, a spool, and 40-spline Moser shafts, along with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

When we first put the 60 in my jeep we were in kind of a hurry when it came time for brakes, so I used the rear calipers, brackets, and rotors from a Jeep Liberty that a friend had sitting around. To fit them we hacked up the stock brackets and redrilled the rotors. [see pic 1] (total cost: $0)

After a few trips, I decided I wanted to add a line lock to help in rear digs, and then quickly realized how pathetic the rear brakes were with my 39" iroks.

So this is what I came up with:
$30 - front caliper mounts from a 89 1/2-ton 4x4 Chevy Suburban
$20 - junkyard caliper cores
$30 - new calipers (core at the local parts store was $20/caliper, so I saved a little buying the cores from the yard)
$10 - banjo bolts
$12 - brake pads
$55 - 1980 F-150 rotors
$45 - new soft brake lines

If I wasn't impatient, I might have gotten a better price on the brackets, but I went for local and quick and might have paid a few bucks more. The second place I called had them, and I had them home within about 2 hours.

With the big bearing ford ends I am using, I found that I couldn't just open up the holes, but would either have to slot a few of them or mark and drill new holes. On the first I tried slotting, and it was time consuming. On the other side I clocked the bracket a little and drilled four new holes, and it was much easier.

I forgot to take pics of the modified brackets, but if you take your time and make sure the bracket is centered it works just fine. This could probably be done with other axle ends if you are looking to use 1/2-ton chevy calipers.

In picture 2 you can see the stock bracket with the dust shields. I removed them and cleaned it up and hit with some black spray bomb in picture 3. In the final two pics you can see the final assembled piece.
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Old December 27th, 2006, 12:01 AM   #2
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So how does it work? Well, it beats the pants off of the liberty rear brakes. With the old setup, the rear never tried to come around, but now it will try it on gravel roads. I may have to look into an adjustable prop valve now.

Oh yeah, this will fit 15" rims, too.
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Old December 27th, 2006, 03:04 PM   #3
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Pretty neat.


/devil's advocate.... why didn't you choose the weld on bracket approach to rear disc brakes?
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Old December 27th, 2006, 08:07 PM   #4
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A couple of reasons:

1) This required no welding. (I just got my own welder for christmas, and I started on this just before)
2) The stock brackets are pretty beefy with their thickness and bends.
3) No need to tap holes for the caliper bolts.

I found this while looking to see what bracket (either bolt-on or weld-on) I would need for my semifloat D60. I saw this and though it looked like an easy way to solve the problem with bolt on parts.
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Old December 27th, 2006, 09:49 PM   #5
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functional, looks good, and a fraction of the cost of TSM brackets.
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Old December 27th, 2006, 10:45 PM   #6
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Thanks!

I would imagine if you have a little bit of patience (unlike me) you could probably buy the brackets for about the same amount as a set of weld on brackets. Even so, it looks like the AA-mfg brackets are $9/bracket, so probably about $20 shipped, and I paid $30. I've wasted more on less.
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