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Old December 20th, 2006, 03:03 PM   #1
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Why do you think they would tell you not to use one of those splice connectors?? They would make it so much easier.
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Old December 20th, 2006, 03:04 PM   #2
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moisture.
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Old December 20th, 2006, 03:08 PM   #3
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moisture.


What if I taped it?
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Old December 20th, 2006, 03:27 PM   #4
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What if I taped it?
It would be good for an extra week.
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Old December 20th, 2006, 04:36 PM   #5
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soldering and heat shrink makes it permanent and waterproof
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Old December 20th, 2006, 04:50 PM   #6
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any kind of crimp on splice conn or scotch lock sucks wouldnt use them inside or out.. might as well do it right with solder and heatshrink. they make nice heat shrink with glue in it that makes it totally waterproof.or heatshrink without.

Last edited by pyrowaves; December 20th, 2006 at 04:52 PM. Reason: spell check
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Old December 20th, 2006, 04:56 PM   #7
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Make sure it's waterproof and done correctly. I had a few vehicles come into the shop over the summer that had no-start conditions and were blowing fuses.

Both vehicles had a fried remote start module, so I disconnected the system and took care of the problem. Whoever had done both vehicles just wrapped wires and taped them.

P.S.: NAPA has nice solderless heatshrink connectors.
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Old December 21st, 2006, 10:32 PM   #8
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Yea...I have seen so many vehicles come in with no starts because of the little blue line tap things...scotch locks as they are called. They suck.

I have remote start in all my vehicles, and put it in my mother in laws car too. ALl soldered and heat shrinked. I did one in a 98 escort that my mother in law bought brand new. She sold it to us, we just sold it last year...had 196,000 miles on it and the remote start still worked fine and never had any trouble out of it.

Solder is the only way to go. Don't be lazy young Jedi learner...
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Old December 22nd, 2006, 06:29 AM   #9
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There are new connectors that clip around the existing wire, and cut into it to make connection to the new wire without the need to cut and solder. They are rated for 15 amps/600V

They are UL listed for AC in wet locations, and they are filled with epoxy. When you press the button down it busts the package all over your connection.

If you need some, let me know, they are $6.40 per

If anybody tells you to solder a wire on a car today, they are stuck in the 70's.

Don't use electrical tape for insulation on anything. even though it looks protected, it doesn't do anything.
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Old December 22nd, 2006, 08:54 AM   #10
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When you press the button down it busts the package all over your connection.
hahahahahahh
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Old December 22nd, 2006, 08:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
There are new connectors that clip around the existing wire, and cut into it to make connection to the new wire without the need to cut and solder. They are rated for 15 amps/600V

They are UL listed for AC in wet locations, and they are filled with epoxy. When you press the button down it busts the package all over your connection.

If you need some, let me know, they are $6.40 per

If anybody tells you to solder a wire on a car today, they are stuck in the 70's.

Don't use electrical tape for insulation on anything. even though it looks protected, it doesn't do anything.
i disagree. if a vehicle comes in my shop i will not do wire repair unless its solder and wrap. i hate comebacks and wont chance it on a stupid connection.
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Old December 22nd, 2006, 09:59 AM   #12
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i disagree. if a vehicle comes in my shop i will not do wire repair unless its solder and wrap. i hate comebacks and wont chance it on a stupid connection.
I've used the solderless shrink wrap things from NAPA. A heat gun will melt the solder in the connector which makes them quick and easy to use.
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Old December 23rd, 2006, 01:28 PM   #13
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I to have seen way too many problems come in from remote starters with scotch-lock connectors, I use uninsulated, crimp connectors with heat shrink. Soldiering can make wiring brittle and break so I avoid that unless necessary.

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Old December 23rd, 2006, 11:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
If you need some, let me know, they are $6.40 per

If anybody tells you to solder a wire on a car today, they are stuck in the 70's.


or they don't want to spend 100 bucks in fancy scotch locks. Those things might be great for the work you do...but you don't see them in the local napa store.

I could just see telling a customer: "Yea, i'm gonna install this 69.99 remote start for you, but I have to buy 20 of these special scotch locks so it'll be an extra 128 bucks in electrical connectors."

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Old December 24th, 2006, 11:21 AM   #15
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well if any of you decie to go out and become and aviation airframe and powerplant tech, you don't solder wires unless they are a temporary repair. solder makes the connection stiff and it can work harden the wires causeing them to break. a spliced connecton is a faa certified repair (meaning the aircrafts you fly on use them) and they are done very well. dual crimped, have a anti corrosion compound in them like clarkston cracker posted, and are sealed in heat shrink tubing for even more protection. so i use both in my vehicle, solder and crimp on connectors. i usually will solder wiring and heat shrink if its on the ouside of my vehicle just in case because i don't buy the expensive connectors like the aviation world uses. but crimp on connectors are ok in my book if they are done properly.

oh and i am almost a licensed A&P mechanic just have 2 more tests to take.
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Old December 24th, 2006, 05:51 PM   #16
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Wait...

<looking around>

Ok, hang on for a sec....

<peeking around a little more>

Yea, ok, whoa, wait a sec....

<checking a few more things>

Yup...I am perdy sure we are not talking about giant ass generators, 600 volts, or airplanes. We're talking about a car that will see salt.

Also, in the Navy, before you can advance from AT1 (first rate) to AT2 (second rate) you have to perform job B435 SOLDER CONNECTIONS. This is for Avations Electronics Technician. It's in chapter 11 of the book.
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Old December 28th, 2006, 09:13 PM   #17
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at the bare minimum soldier the heavy gauge wires. these are the high current wires and are the biggest ones on the remote start unit. if you wanna use t taps for some hard to reach brake wires everything will be fine as long as you crimp it good. if you can soldier everything than better yet.
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