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Old November 8th, 2005, 10:35 AM   #21
Haggar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brimy311
haha...thanks for the kind words!
I'm sure it will be nice! It was acomment on my crappy mass-manufactured trailer.

I had one from Antique auto... once I didn't have the trailer jack up high enough and it caught on a high spot in my backyard... twisted the C-channel brace it was attached to, and tore the crappy welds. Likewise, I had to reweld most of the junky angle-iron rungs on the ramps.
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Old November 8th, 2005, 05:05 PM   #22
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I think you should have more than 4 tie downs on the trailer. I know the trailer I have now only has 6 and I use every one of them. My trailer also has a round tube running across the very front of the bed. I like this because I can power bind my loads ( if possible to)

It also makes it nice because it kinda gives something to stopyou incase you get out of control.... Althought that didnt stop the tractor from going up and over in tothe tailgate. grrrr I do like the dove tails also because I dont always have to screw with ramps when loading certian things. My jeep I can just drive right up on.

I do like the jacks in the rear, and make sure the front one swings because I have caught mine on alot of stuff and bent the hell out of it. as for storage, One of my trailers has it under the deck, this is nice because it is out of the way, but its kinda far down. You can never have enought storage though.

I have never had a plywood deck trailer it always has been 2x12 and the way they bound them down is they made it so you slide the front end under a peice of angle iron and then the back end you welded the back angel iron over the boards. worked quite well and nice.

Also I can see a problem with running the wires in side the frame, what if they needed repaired... it can possible be a huge pain.. just a sugestion.
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Old November 8th, 2005, 05:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noodles
I think you should have more than 4 tie downs on the trailer. I know the trailer I have now only has 6 and I use every one of them. My trailer also has a round tube running across the very front of the bed. I like this because I can power bind my loads ( if possible to)

It also makes it nice because it kinda gives something to stopyou incase you get out of control.... Althought that didnt stop the tractor from going up and over in tothe tailgate. grrrr I do like the dove tails also because I dont always have to screw with ramps when loading certian things. My jeep I can just drive right up on.

I do like the jacks in the rear, and make sure the front one swings because I have caught mine on alot of stuff and bent the hell out of it. as for storage, One of my trailers has it under the deck, this is nice because it is out of the way, but its kinda far down. You can never have enought storage though.

I have never had a plywood deck trailer it always has been 2x12 and the way they bound them down is they made it so you slide the front end under a peice of angle iron and then the back end you welded the back angel iron over the boards. worked quite well and nice.

Also I can see a problem with running the wires in side the frame, what if they needed repaired... it can possible be a huge pain.. just a sugestion.
my jeep only has 4 corners.. so why would i need to use more tie downs? ..

i imagine that the trailer options could be customizable..
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Old November 8th, 2005, 05:35 PM   #24
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its for when you are hauling more than one thing
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Old November 8th, 2005, 06:35 PM   #25
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On my trailer that I am building right now, I am putting 4-weld on drings in the corners for tieing down the landcruiser. In the front, I am doing stake pockets with a rub rail. The rub rail will go from the front corner to the fender. You can hook a strap or chain anywhere on the rub rail giving alot of options for tieing down.

We will not be building bulk manufactured trailers, they will most likely be all custom built per what the person wants.
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Old November 8th, 2005, 07:18 PM   #26
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Brian, Think about including provisions for a optional storage box. I'm still looking for the perfect box to fit my trailer. I may have to drag it to your shop so you can build me a custom box.

Also, think about including a secure tow point to winch up wounded vehicles.
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Old November 8th, 2005, 07:28 PM   #27
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Scottmac siting!!!!!!Wow, this new board is really bring the oldskool guys out of the wood works!

Definatly bring it out, I can build you a box no problem. Hope to see you around!
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Old November 9th, 2005, 08:44 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
I personally dislike:
Brakes on 1 axle only
Angle iron construction
No Brake-Away
Decks not screwed down
crappy fenders
crappy wiring
crappy paint...

All of which you can find on a $2000+ trailer

Any other problems you have?
Screwing down the deck is dumb unless you're going to carriage bolt it. A good flexing of the trailer is going to pop drywall/deck screws like buttons on a fat man's shirt.

I couldn't have built my trailer for what I paid for it... so I can tolerate the crappy paint, the bad wiring/lighting (which I replaced all of it anyway), and brakes on only one axle.

Drive over fenders, a toolbox in front of the deck that also goes under the deck a little (big enough to fit 4 binders and 6 8' 3/8" chains), a toolbox behind the axles to fit things like blocks of wood, ramps behind the axles, taillight housings that are indestructable, lots of side marker lights including ones out on the fenders that you can see in your rearview, stake pockets that are welded on both sides, 2" receiver in the front, adjustable legs for the back of the trailer so you don't ruin the coupler, et cetera would all be nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane
Not a problem I have, but a problem I see all the time:

Trailers set up for a 2" ball!

2" balls are rated for 6000 pounds AT BEST. For a trailer rated for 7000 pounds or higher??? Need a 2 5/16" setup.
My trailer has a 10,000lb 2" coupler and I run a 10,000lb 2" ball. My trailer is only good for 7,000lbs according to the registration... even though it's made of 5" channel. I have three different ballmounts (for 3 different heights of tires/trailer combination... I'd hate to have to buy 3 more for 2 5/16" stuff.
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Old November 9th, 2005, 10:02 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
Screwing down the deck is dumb unless you're going to carriage bolt it. A good flexing of the trailer is going to pop drywall/deck screws like buttons on a fat man's shirt.
I used carage bolts on my last trailer deck, they worked good. On the new trailer, I am using these sweet "wood to metal" electro coat self drillers. they have a counter sunk head. But they are not exactly cheap. I will try to get a pic of them.
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Old November 9th, 2005, 12:31 PM   #30
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Brimy, are the screws your talking about like the ones on snowmobile trailers? Filips head, drill tip, self taping threads? If so I would recomend not using them. My snowmobile trailers have them and they suck. Also, I would not make the trailer out of square tube (2x4) as you mentioned eariler, espically not using these screws. You will get water into the tubes, it will never get out and the trailer will rust out in 3-6 years of use if used in the winter at all, slightly longer if only used in the summer. Using a structurial "C" channel is a better way to go, it is as strong as square tube and you can paint it to protect it on all sides. Just a coupple FYI's from other trailers I have owned in my life... square tube on trailer though is bad unless all your welds are air tight and your not screwing into the tube to allow water in.

Also, something that makes it nice for running the wires is to just weld steel conduit to the trailer and pull the wires through that. After re-wiring several trailers I have started to do this on all my trailers. It makes the wires last MUCH longer.
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Old November 9th, 2005, 01:54 PM   #31
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Here's my .02

I would like a 16' or 18' flat bed with 2x8 treated decking fastened with HOT DIPPED GALVY 3/8th carriage bolts.

axles should be 5200# each and, obviously, have brakes on both axles.

somehow, the trailer tongue, and i guess the whole trailer itself, should sit higher than normal so I dont have to use a 12" drop hitch - and to avoid scraping the crap out of everything.

the fenders should be sturdy enough to support my body weight when jumping up on them to get in my rig and the upper fender surface should have a non-slip coating. It'd be nice if there was a step in front or behind the fender - to make it easier to get up on the fender.

There should be tie downs front, middle and rear and these tie-downs should be inboard of the perimeter rail.

Perimeter rail and vertical supports should have a ton of holes for bungy cords and lightweight straps.

Rear should have a full-width drop gate sturdy enough to support the rig.

Front and rear corners should have jackstands to support the trailer so that I can use the trailer as a garage floor.

IMHO wiring should be run in PLASTIC conduit. I'm sick of ripping out rusted metal conduit and corroded wires.

Here's a thought... (i haven't figured out how to do it yet) I like to pull my rig right up to the front rail and use front and rear tie-downs to pull the rig tight.
However, pulling my rig all the way up to the front rail puts a bit too much weight in the front of the trailer. I would like some way to have an adjustable bar that I could slide back or forward as needed - and drive my front tires into that, as opposed to the front rail.

Storage box on the tongue. HEAVY duty front jack with a heavy duty foot.

Sealed LED lights & a lot of 'em!

Now that's what I call a trailer!
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Old November 9th, 2005, 03:22 PM   #32
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I want a trailer with 4 linked air bag suspension instead of leaf springs so i can dump some air and lay the back end right on the ground... NO RAMPS needed..
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Old November 9th, 2005, 03:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddinguy
I want a trailer with 4 linked air bag suspension instead of leaf springs so i can dump some air and lay the back end right on the ground... NO RAMPS needed..
So it might as well have air brakes then too... right?
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Old November 10th, 2005, 02:17 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blizazer
So it might as well have air brakes then too... right?
sure why not??
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Old November 10th, 2005, 02:41 AM   #35
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dear god, let me guess you are going to drop it going down the highway also?
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Old November 10th, 2005, 03:05 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noodles
dear god, let me guess you are going to drop it going down the highway also?
yea and ill put some titanium blocks so it showers white sparks and ill get a plate that say Lotrail
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Old November 10th, 2005, 12:37 PM   #37
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the ability to drop it going down the road would be nice, less wind resistance when pulling....
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Old November 18th, 2005, 10:19 AM   #38
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true, true, the air bags wouldnt be a bad idea, but that would mean that youd have to have an aircompressor on the trailer, or on your truck.. and yeah that might be an issue, might not. but yeah id like it specail if you could make the rear wedge shaped so you can drop the air bagson the rear axle and make it a tilt bed
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Old November 18th, 2005, 11:38 AM   #39
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My biggest complaint has not been from hauling rigs.

Its been from hauling my conv't. Its a severe pain in the ass for me to find a trailer to rent that is wide enough for the car and can handle the 5000 load decently. I take it to Homecoming parades and one year I had a freaking construction trailer that weighed more then the car - something you would see a backhoe on behind a dump truck.

Since I tow different types of things, I would really like an enclosed trailer for both security and protection.

The airbag idea sounds pretty cool, and I also agree on multiple tie-down points just for the benefit of being able to handle any situation.
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Old November 18th, 2005, 01:47 PM   #40
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I want Neon lights under mine ! lol
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