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Old January 4th, 2006, 09:43 PM   #1
shawn
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Default Steering problems, questions

I've been noticing an irritating problem with my steering, and I don't know when it started. When I went to 35's, I also replaced the steering gear just for the hell of it with a rebiult box from Murrays.

Well, the steering feels terribly loose. And if going around a corner, it takes nearly one full turn of the steering wheel, to get around the corner. And, from lock to lock, it doesn't seem like I get enough wheel travel, I am not even close to hitting the stop bolts on the knuckles (even with them all the way out). Did Murrays give me a bogus steering box, or did 35's make that much of a sloppy difference?

Oh and one more question. I am in desparate need of a new steering shaft (I really shouldn't even be driving it). Is there any other good solution that is cheaper than the flaming river shafts but offer the same style of joints on the ends?
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Old January 4th, 2006, 10:09 PM   #2
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The flaming river shaft sucks. I blew through mine in like 2 trips. I highly recommend the borgeson. You want a decent joint, not that crappy square peg design.

It would seem to me that regardless of the gear in your box you would eventually reach the bumpstops, wouldn't you?
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Old January 4th, 2006, 10:13 PM   #3
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BTW, I discovered today that high pressure hoses need to be used in power steering setups. I replaced the worn hose with "PS return hose" on my steering and bled the system. Decided to take it for a final test spin before our trip. The damn thing exploded and left fluid all over my driveway. I pulled it back in and noticed that one of the return hoses in my setup was a standard fuel line that split under the pressure once the whole system was sealed and leak proof. Fortunately I had enough PS return hose leftover to spend 2 hours tonight fixing the steering again. It looks clean for the trip now.
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Old January 4th, 2006, 10:30 PM   #4
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Definatly sounds like you have the wrong box.

How many turns lock to lock is it?
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Old January 5th, 2006, 02:53 PM   #5
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It's still about 4 turns clock to clock, just doesn't seem like it's turning the wheels nearly enough.

Oh, Darryl, I got a problem You meantioned about your camber issue on your 44. After talking with you about it I started looking at my front tires, and sure as shit, my camber is off. The tops of both tires pints out, it is out no more than 2 degrees. But from what I am finding I just need the cam style (or essentric) upper ball joint adjuster. Right? Maybe this is another contributor to the sloppyness?
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Old January 5th, 2006, 09:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc78cj7
The flaming river shaft sucks. I blew through mine in like 2 trips. I highly recommend the borgeson. You want a decent joint, not that crappy square peg design.

It would seem to me that regardless of the gear in your box you would eventually reach the bumpstops, wouldn't you?

I wouldn't take steering advice from a guy who doesn't know that steering boxes have internal stops. I'm confuesd by the "crappy square peg design" comment, too.


Shawn: Read this. http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/5109/
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Old January 5th, 2006, 10:01 PM   #7
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Thanks for that article cornfed, I just learned a ton.
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Old January 5th, 2006, 11:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn
Oh, Darryl, I got a problem You meantioned about your camber issue on your 44. After talking with you about it I started looking at my front tires, and sure as shit, my camber is off. The tops of both tires pints out, it is out no more than 2 degrees. But from what I am finding I just need the cam style (or essentric) upper ball joint adjuster. Right? Maybe this is another contributor to the sloppyness?
Spindle shims... Just go in any good automotive store (IE not Autozone) and ask for spindle shims. They may have to check their parts books. They will need your spindle bolt pattern.

I think they were around $20 a peice, made of aluminum, and maxed out at 1.5deg. The holes are actually slots, so you can dial what you need.
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Old January 5th, 2006, 11:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn
It's still about 4 turns clock to clock, just doesn't seem like it's turning the wheels nearly enough.
Did you change pitman arms?
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Old January 6th, 2006, 01:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfed
I wouldn't take steering advice from a guy who doesn't know that steering boxes have internal stops. I'm confuesd by the "crappy square peg design" comment, too.


I've never seen a steering system in a vehicle that stopped before the steering bumpstops. All the boxes I've witnessed function have always had more travel.

:shrug:
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Old January 6th, 2006, 06:29 AM   #11
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Well, after reading that article from cornfed, and reading everyone elses comments, I think I need different Knuckles. Waggy Knuckles will not work with this Pitman Arm, and I can't go with a longer pitman arm because it is already nearly hitting the drag link. So I need to somehow shorten the steering arms and make sure I have good Ackerman Angle. Anybody have any knuckle recomendations for a D44?
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Old January 6th, 2006, 06:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn
Well, after reading that article from cornfed, and reading everyone elses comments, I think I need different Knuckles. Waggy Knuckles will not work with this Pitman Arm, and I can't go with a longer pitman arm because it is already nearly hitting the drag link. So I need to somehow shorten the steering arms and make sure I have good Ackerman Angle. Anybody have any knuckle recomendations for a D44?
Do you have highsteer?

If not that is what I would recommend.
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Old January 6th, 2006, 07:19 AM   #13
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i think the only way you can do it is hi-steer with whatatever knuckle lenth you want
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Old January 6th, 2006, 08:31 AM   #14
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Guess I'll be calling 4Bangler.
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Old January 6th, 2006, 09:55 AM   #15
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Sam's Offroad makes a gearbox bracket that moves the box forward an inch or something and can solve the pitman arm/draglink contact problem
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Old January 9th, 2006, 08:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder
Sam's Offroad makes a gearbox bracket that moves the box forward an inch or something and can solve the pitman arm/draglink contact problem
I don't have that problem.
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