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Old July 22nd, 2014, 12:29 AM   #1
stinkpickle
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Default To yank the drive shaft or not when towing

I have a jeep that I dolly tow from Toledo area to Cadillac on occasion. Heres my setup, AMC 20 rear end, Dana 300 t-case mated to a SM465 manual tranny. Onto the question, should I pull the rear drive shaft when I tow with a dolly or am I safe just to shift the t-case and the tranny to neutral. Thanks for constructive input.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 12:47 AM   #2
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T-case in neutral is all you need to do.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 02:07 AM   #3
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If it was mine I would pull shaft.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 04:35 AM   #4
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Pull the shaft


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Old July 22nd, 2014, 06:09 AM   #5
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Why do you guys say to pull the shaft? Isn't a D300 an oil sump that gets lubricated by the oil splash? Isn't the oil level high enough to lube the rotating parts if the case is in neutral?
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 06:44 AM   #6
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If it was mine I would pull shaft.


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Pull the shaft


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Old July 22nd, 2014, 06:46 AM   #7
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I know two people who towed cjs with dana 300s, one tow bar and one with a dolly. Both had trans/tcase problems the last time they hauled them that way with driveshaft in. I'm not saying they did it didn't have it in neutral,but if it was mine I would take the extra 10 mins and pull shaft.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 12:30 PM   #8
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Factory recommended pulling rear driveshaft.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 12:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Why do you guys say to pull the shaft? Isn't a D300 an oil sump that gets lubricated by the oil splash? Isn't the oil level high enough to lube the rotating parts if the case is in neutral?
I believe the only safe way to tow a D300 without pulling the shaft is to have the front wheels on the road and the hubs locked. That will rotate the front drive components in the t-case and spash oil. The rear drive only spinning is too far above the oil level.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 12:56 PM   #10
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ive seen multiple blown up tcases due to flat/dolly towing.

I would pull the shaft too
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 01:06 PM   #11
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I didn't know that.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 01:29 PM   #12
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I didn't know that.
Guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 01:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 01:44 PM   #14
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How would the the transfer case be harmed? wouldn't the oil be splashed around no different than normal driving?

Not trying to be a smart ass, I just don't know
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 02:08 PM   #15
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Pull the shaft. Extra few minutes work vs a whole lot of money.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 02:30 PM   #16
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I've always thought better safe than sorry so I've always pulled the DS. I can't help but wonder, what, if any mechanical harm could be done and why.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 02:40 PM   #17
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Robbed from another site.



Flat towing with a Dana 300



After seeing the other thread about clocking a Dana 300, I thought I'd post this little tidbit from the March 1995 issue of 4 Wheel & Offroad that I thought fellow Dana 300 transfer case owners might find useful. It's from an article by Rick Russel.

"A problem with the design of the Dana Model 300 transfer case is that it's gears don't turn when the 'case in in neutral unless the engine is running. The shafts rotate when the Jeep is being flat towed, but the gears don't spin around and throw oil inside the case. That means the shift fork pads, the tailhousing bearing and the surfaces between the spinning shafts and stationary gears are all without lubrication when towing.

To avoid damage to the transfer case, some 'wheelers remove the rear driveshaft before towing, thereby preventing any parts from moving. That always seemed like hassle to me, so, like many others, I just towed it anyway. That is, until I was in a campground at Moab and I saw a motorhome towing a Jeep with the transfer case on fire.

Not long after this, my own transfer case began to slip out of gear. Seeking a solution, I pulled the 'case and took it to Tri-County Gear in Pomona, CA. The first question Tri-County Gear owner Jason Bunch asked me was whether I had been towing the Jeep. The answer was yes-but the harder question was this: What could be done to the Model 300 transfer case to allow the vehicle to be flat-towed without have to remove the rear driveshaft or install unlocking rear hubs?

Jason had an answer. He suggested welding five ears on the shifting sliders. When the rear driveshaft turns, the sliders also turn. Adding ears to only the lower sliders probably would have done the job, but Jason decided to heliarc ears onto both the upper and lower sliders for maximum oil circulation. Once the ears were welded on, the transfer case was reassembled and the ears were ground down for a final fit.

The last step was to test the paddle-wheel theory. To do this, a hole was drilled high on the side of the transfer case and plugged. On a trip where I was towing the Jeep on flat roads, the plug was removed for 5 miles. An inspection then revealed that oil was being thrown out of the unplugged hole. In addition, the whole transfer case was warm - not just the tail section where the rear bearing is located."

On a related note, I believe that Tri-County Gear offered the modified sliders for a while but has dicontinued them. Still, they may be willing to build them on an individual basis or, based on the photos accompanying the article, it doesn't appear that difficult of a modification to do it yourself or have done locally.

It's also my understanding that clocking the Dana 300 causes it to lay flatter and brings the oil level up so that the indicated parts are continually submerged and bathed in oil.

For now, I'll continue to play it safe and disconnect the rear driveshaft when flat towing. But eventualy one of these modifications will find it's way into my Scrambler.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 04:43 PM   #18
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Very informative. Thank you.
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