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Old June 23rd, 2014, 08:09 PM   #1
Motownhero
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Default 1986 zuki rear diff. bearing Grind

Purchased this last year, got some good trail riding out of her, now i noticed the rear drive shaft was wobbling pretty bad, i took the flange bolts out, and removed the driveshaft, and noticed the pinion nut was loose, so i tightend it just enough so the flange didnt seem to wobble anymore, put driveshaft back on, and took for a ride down the road, noticed a slight grinding noise, like bearing's.... so i changed the rear oil and some small chunks of metal came out, and the oil was just a tad bit thick, so i changed that to.
my question is, if its just a pinion bearing, is this something i can do, and does anyone know if the axles have to come out first to get to the pinion bearings? Help, and thanks in advance.
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Old June 25th, 2014, 07:34 PM   #2
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yes you need to pull the third to work on it...

they arent too bad to do
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Old July 9th, 2014, 11:51 AM   #3
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Hey thanks, now i noticed the bearings are not to bad, they do need replaced, no chips in any gears, actually better then i had pictured before i took apart, i noticed the previous owner tried to weld the spider gears, and the weld came apart, thats the chunks of metal i see in the bottom of the punkin, I'm gonna order a complete bearing kit for the diff. and attempt to do my self, this is NOT a dailey driver, I barely put 1,000 miles a year on this zuk, it's just mostly a two tracker and some mud fun toy.
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Old July 9th, 2014, 11:59 AM   #4
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Just make sure you get all the shims off the bearing when you remove it from the pinnion. The torque isn't too bad to set. Pattern and backlash is the hardest. You need a torque wrench and a dial indicator. Some people use a fish scale to pull on the flange for the rolling torque. Ive been good so far going by feel. But I had a good one sitting next to me when I did them.
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Old July 24th, 2014, 10:10 PM   #5
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Well i have occomplished my first Bearing rebuild, tightened up the pinion nut against the new crush sleeve till there was 0 play in the flange, then proceeded to get the 12" pounds it requires, which as about 100' pounds till it finally got to the correct final 12" pounds of turning the flange, then just snugged the carrier bearings, and a little more tight for safe figures, checked.010 Backlash (Just new Bearings) Blotched the gears and had a good pattern, permatext the rear mounting pointing, new wheel bearings, put the shafts in and thought id try to see how it worked with it still in the air and tires off, and noticed it was in gear and turning the tire the drive shaft was not moving, i thought, now what the hell did i do wrong, lol, I thought well i will put it all back together and try it, worked great no noise and sounds like new, i was told the slip rearend i have is suppose to do that when it is in the air.
So now my question is now, how do i check the front gear ratio to see if it matches the rear which is 3:73, I cant do the tape on tire and driveshaft trick to check the ratio in the front, any other way without taking out the front diff.?
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Old July 25th, 2014, 06:46 AM   #6
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if its unmolested it will be 3.73. all samurais from 86+ had 3.73 rears. SJ410's had a 4.10 rear i believe.

you can do the rev counting on the driveshaft. you should be able to tell if its 3.73 or 4.xx (4.30 and 4.62 are too close to tell apart via this method) or 5.xx (5:12 is most common)

if you need to know 100% for sure then out comes the diff
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Old July 25th, 2014, 10:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freebird01 View Post
if its unmolested it will be 3.73. all samurais from 86+ had 3.73 rears. SJ410's had a 4.10 rear i believe.

you can do the rev counting on the driveshaft. you should be able to tell if its 3.73 or 4.xx (4.30 and 4.62 are too close to tell apart via this method) or 5.xx (5:12 is most common)

if you need to know 100% for sure then out comes the diff
Ok Freebird, thx for all your help, Ill try the test tomorrow, I was just amazed that it had the stock 3:73 ratio in it, it goes thru all the gears pretty good, with the 33's on it, I just think it kinda sucks in the mud or snow, doesnt seem to work very well, my son said its because of the short vehicle it is, plus he said it needs coil overs instead of the leafs.
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Old July 26th, 2014, 05:12 AM   #8
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They do kinda ok with 33's and stock gears. You wont be able to use 5th gear and off road wont be fun. The length has less to do with it...I dont know your whole setup but a fairly stock zuk will weigh in around 2700# at most with a mild lift and 33's. That means with bigger and wider tires you have a tendency to float above on snow/mud and not dig to the bottom for traction. Skinnier tires help with this. You dont NEED coilovers. S okme of the best rigs ive seen are just spoa on yj springs. The driver has more to do with how capable a rig is then its equipment.
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