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Old June 14th, 2014, 11:23 PM   #1
BIGBADJMY
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Default cv rear shaft or no cv???

So the rear cv joints melted down today n was wondering what people thought. should I just eliminate the cv rear n go to 1410 or should I keep the cv???

ready debate.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 06:40 AM   #2
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Might need a touch more information......

But based on the info given, my answer will be maybe.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 06:45 AM   #3
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All depends on your driveshaft angles from full stuff to full droop and if your rear pinion is parallel with your t-case output or pointed up towards it.

Angle first:
Standard spider u-joints need to run in "phase" with each other. Both from an angle standpoint and "cross" alignment. A u-joint does not spin in a circle, but rather spins in an elliptical motion. So, if both joints are not moving together in a synchronized motion, they will vibrate.......... BAD. If your rear axle was set up with the pinion pointed up towards the transfer case, as most people do with 14 bolt axles, without a double cardan joint, it will vibrate. NOTE, although commonly called a CV joint, that's not what you have. It's a double cardan joint.

Full droop:
If your rear pinion is parallel with your transfer case, it is likely you don't need a DC joint because the rear joint already makes the motions. But the only way to tell is to lift the rear off the ground and let the axle do a full droop and then check the yoke clearances at each end of the shaft. If they bind, you can grind some of the yoke material away if needed.

It's not really a debate. It either mechanically works or it doesn't.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 09:02 AM   #4
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you broke a girl jeep. LOLOL
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Old June 15th, 2014, 09:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrodave View Post
Might need a touch more information......

But based on the info given, my answer will be maybe.
I totally agree.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 10:01 AM   #6
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;);)
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
All depends on your driveshaft angles from full stuff to full droop and if your rear pinion is parallel with your t-case output or pointed up towards it.

Angle first:
Standard spider u-joints need to run in "phase" with each other. Both from an angle standpoint and "cross" alignment. A u-joint does not spin in a circle, but rather spins in an elliptical motion. So, if both joints are not moving together in a synchronized motion, they will vibrate.......... BAD. If your rear axle was set up with the pinion pointed up towards the transfer case, as most people do with 14 bolt axles, without a double cardan joint, it will vibrate. NOTE, although commonly called a CV joint, that's not what you have. It's a double cardan joint.

Full droop:
If your rear pinion is parallel with your transfer case, it is likely you don't need a DC joint because the rear joint already makes the motions. But the only way to tell is to lift the rear off the ground and let the axle do a full droop and then check the yoke clearances at each end of the shaft. If they bind, you can grind some of the yoke material away if needed.

It's not really a debate. It either mechanically works or it doesn't.
exactly what he said!

sended frum dis stoopid fone
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Old June 15th, 2014, 10:12 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevotass View Post
you broke a girl jeep. LOLOL
Sounds like he at least wheels instead of drowning worms.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 11:23 AM   #8
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I have been running a double cardon rear shaft on my yj with dana 60s and 40" irocs for 5 years or so and have never had an issue with the joints. I have twisted multiple tubes but every time the joint was still ok. That's with 1310 at tcase and 1350 at axle.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 12:48 PM   #9
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Well sounds like iam gona have to stick with what I got. If I eleminated the double cardan because adjusting axle to run single joint would be a pita. It just looks like to much of an angle for that style when the axle droops out. But gona have to do some work on it havent even beat it yet.


anybody ever ran the tom woods 40 degree double cardan shaft they offer?
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Old June 15th, 2014, 05:51 PM   #10
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Well got it out n started putting new ujoints n before work.70$ moog parts all greaseable. Thats why they burnt up the two that went were none grease type. But its gona have to be changed for sure. Its a old spicer style with 1310 double card. N 1350 at axle. But ive got about 1.5 nch of droop from ride height before it starts to bind n theres no center limit strap! Amatures!
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