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Old May 27th, 2014, 06:06 PM   #21
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So this is what I am trying to convince my self is the problem. Testing the fuel pressure I get 34 - 36 psi running with vac line disconected. Now today I was re checking with some help and noticed when pressure gage is at 0 and the key is turned on it jumps maybe 5psi and jumps about 5-6 psi every time the key is turned on. Also it drops 1-2 psi each time as well. With the gage at 0 and turn key to run its jumps to 5 psi then turn to start it rises very slowly, it takes 5-10 seconds to reach 35psi. The car starts at about 20. Does this sound normal? I mean really it has 36 psi when it's running so does anything else matter?

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Old May 27th, 2014, 07:31 PM   #22
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So this is what I am trying to convince my self is the problem. Testing the fuel pressure I get 34 - 36 psi running with vac line disconected. Now today I was re checking with some help and noticed when pressure gage is at 0 and the key is turned on it jumps maybe 5psi and jumps about 5-6 psi every time the key is turned on. Also it drops 1-2 psi each time as well. With the gage at 0 and turn key to run its jumps to 5 psi then turn to start it rises very slowly, it takes 5-10 seconds to reach 35psi. The car starts at about 20. Does this sound normal? I mean really it has 36 psi when it's running so does anything else matter?

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That does not seem good to me.

New fuel filter? Fuel pump?

Does it hold pressure when giving it throttle?

It should jump up to peak pressure with just the key on prime.

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Old May 27th, 2014, 07:37 PM   #23
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Man I think your digging into this too deep . You have too ask yourself these questions .
1 . does it run on all other cylinders ? Yes go too #2
2. self check If its running on all other cylinders fuel pressure obviously not the issue go too #3
3. check voltage at injector knowing you have fuel pressure there is there voltage go too #4
4 . Is there compression in that cylinder ? Previous post suggest yes got to #5
5. Is there spark to the plug for that cylinder ? Previous post suggest yes go to #6
6. logically we know we have spark , compression , fuel pressure , engine runs on all other cylinders ( common fuel rail ) and we know we have voltage at the injector in question so with all that next logical thing would be too swap the injector from that cylinder with a known working one from another cylinder and see if the problem follows that injector . If there is power too it and you know you have fuel pressure , compression and spark it has too be that injector .
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Old May 27th, 2014, 08:58 PM   #24
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That almost seems to simple. Guess it would not be unheard of for a new injector to be bad. I was trying to figure out a way to see if it sprays fuel the noid light blinks like crazy. That's what I'll do tomorrow swap around injecrors.

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Old May 27th, 2014, 09:42 PM   #25
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That almost seems to simple. Guess it would not be unheard of for a new injector to be bad. I was trying to figure out a way to see if it sprays fuel the noid light blinks like crazy. That's what I'll do tomorrow swap around injecrors.

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Could also be clogged from something in the fuel lines, not uncommon when new lines are put together especially when using braided line that get cut to length. Pieces of rubber can migrate to the injector heads and clog them.
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Old May 28th, 2014, 09:23 AM   #26
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Should the motor run with the mass air unpluged? It dies as soon as it's unpluged and won't start with it unpluged. I wanted to move the cold air intake out of the way to keep checking the injectors . I'm trying to listen to them for a clicking. Number 1 does not make a clicking sound 2 does and I can't get to 3 4 with this in the way.

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Old May 28th, 2014, 09:28 AM   #27
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Try giving the one that doesn't work a tap with a screwdriver or something......I have seen many new ones "stuck" from sitting.
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Old May 28th, 2014, 02:06 PM   #28
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Ok took a step back and started over. I have 162-164 psi of compression on all cylinders. I have good spark at all plugs. I have injector signal and all injectors and with a stethoscope they do all click. So I decided to remove the plug wires one at a time while it was running to listen for a difference turns out that's a bad idea.i hate getting shocked. So I used a test light and pierced them all one at a time. Everyone of them made the engine loose rpm and vacumm. So it got me thinking again about the fuel pressure the way it built up so slowly. What would the symtoms of low fuel pressure be? Playing with the gage on the bench it's clear it won't loose pressure as fast as it reads it due to the seals for the ford adaptor. Also after removing the gage now I can't get it to read over 10psi. Going to swap it out for another incase it's the gage. Anyhow all the help is greatly appreciated. I'd happy buy anyone of you a beer.

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Old May 28th, 2014, 06:10 PM   #29
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Just because it clicks doesn't mean fuel will spray out of it ,If it was low fuel pressure it would still be running on that cylinder just not well above idle but that would go for all cylinders .Also the fuel rail makes a big loop when you unhook the vacuum line off the regulator you should see the fuel pressure go up because it is basically deadheaded when you hook it back up the vacuum signal opens the regulator and allows flow back too tank taking the load off the fuel pump when you mash the gas the vacuum drops supplying more fuel pressure too the injectors just swap like 1 and 4 on the same rail so you only have too unbolt one side .
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Old May 28th, 2014, 06:38 PM   #30
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It's definitely firing on that cylinder. I completely pinched off the return line and can only get about 40-45psi. I don't have much experience with fuel pressure issues so I compared this to my truck that has no issues. When I press on the shrader valve on my truck fuel spays out pretty well on this on its more like a little squirt and a drizzle. So at this point I ordered a fuel pump and filter I'm out of ideas.
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Old May 28th, 2014, 08:27 PM   #31
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40 to 45 about right I think so if your getting this with the return line pinched off then the regulator may be stuck open that's easy enough too change too your original post said it wasn't running on that one cylinder it is now ?
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Old May 28th, 2014, 08:37 PM   #32
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Need to do a volume test....pull the fuel line off the rail, stick it in a quart bottle and see how long it takes to fill it. a good pump should do it around 30 seconds or better.
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Old May 28th, 2014, 08:49 PM   #33
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Need to do a volume test....pull the fuel line off the rail, stick it in a quart bottle and see how long it takes to fill it. a good pump should do it around 30 seconds or better.
I got the loan a tool pressure tester from autozone. It has a line on it for flow testing. When I was trying to do the flow test with it on the car almost nothing would come out of the tube figured I was doing it wrong so I tried it on my truck and fuel ran right out of the line no problem. Makes me really doubt the state of the stock pump. I didn't think about taking the line off and trying it that way, I'll try that tomorrow. I ordered a new 190lph pump and a pressure gage to put on the rail. Hope to have that done this weekend.

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Old May 29th, 2014, 03:08 PM   #34
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So to fill a quart jar takes about a minuet 10 give or take. In 30 seconds it was under half. Also when I turn the key on and it primes almost no fuel comes out maybe 2-3 ounces. That's not good right? Getting ready to drop the tank now.

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Old May 29th, 2014, 05:50 PM   #35
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if the regulator is stuck open it will all return too tank being you see the pressure rise when you pinch off the return line I would say the regulator is bad and much easier too change than the fuel pump .
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Old May 29th, 2014, 06:12 PM   #36
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Question though if it was the regulator that was bad would I not get good flow out of the line? It's disconected before the fuel rail and regulator and not connected to the return line, at least that's how it appears to work to me.

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Old May 30th, 2014, 07:36 PM   #37
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Ok replaced the pump added a pressure gauge and same problem but much better pressure and volume. Think it's time to take it to a shop and get it diagnosed I already have 300 into "I think this is the problem" parts. Only thing I have not replaced is ignition control module and map sensor.

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Old May 31st, 2014, 09:55 PM   #38
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map sensor was not it...lol

I believe it's running rich when the wife punched it from a stop it's definitely puffing out Grey smoke. Would the ignition module have anything to do with air fuel mixture? It's the only thing left to replace that I can think of.

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Old June 1st, 2014, 08:40 AM   #39
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Fuel pressure regulator could still be bad
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Old June 4th, 2014, 07:13 PM   #40
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Not the regulator either. Anyone have a video of a ford 302 noid light blink? Mine seem very dim and don't really blink more like a surge, it never goes out and only gets about 50% as bright as an 08 caravan. I tried on my wife's van just to see and it's much brighter and definitely a blink.

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