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Old March 14th, 2014, 11:51 AM   #41
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Another option that could work but would probably be a pain in the ass, is to build the pillow block mount off of the trans mount so they move and twist together and eliminate the need for the slip joint. Or even between the pillow block and frame you use something like a poly trans mount so it'd take up the movement. Not sure how long that'd hold up though. Running the slip joint driveshaft is definitely the right way to do it, but I'm just trying to think outside the box.

Or what about if a fitting were made to allow the driveshaft to slide slightly in the bearing itself? Obviously excessive slop/runout would be bad, but if a driveshaft style slipjoint could be incorporated there rather than between 2 pieces of the shaft, it could potentially do the same job.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 12:04 PM   #42
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only thing ive ran them on had no slip in the first part but i think they all have rubber isolation so they can absorb the flex. cause we are on the skinny pedal a lot lol.

thanks for the good info boys
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Old March 14th, 2014, 12:22 PM   #43
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If I recall (it was 6 years ago) High Angle didn't think I needed the first slip. But the engineer in me said I do so I paid extra for it.

At the time of the build, I didn't have an engine skid plate. But now that I do, I suppose a fixed bearing could be mounted so it would move with the engine and trans during engine torque. If that was done, a Timken style would work without the need for the extra joint. On second thought, that would only apply if the shaft was dead straight in line with the t-case output.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 12:42 PM   #44
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^ This.

I now know allot more about 2 piece d-shafts.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 01:05 PM   #45
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I am going to use poop pipe instead of DOM to make mine!
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Old March 14th, 2014, 01:07 PM   #46
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I am going to use poop pipe instead of DOM to make mine!
it will work fine
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Old March 14th, 2014, 01:26 PM   #47
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it will work fine
Yeah, for his piece of shit it will fit right in......
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Old March 14th, 2014, 01:33 PM   #48
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Yeah, for his piece of shit it will fit right in......
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Old March 14th, 2014, 02:54 PM   #49
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ouch
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Old March 14th, 2014, 03:12 PM   #50
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best ive used is two pieces of square stock that slid together nicely..... worked great at low speed lol
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Old March 17th, 2014, 01:04 AM   #51
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It seems some one could say take a bent Dana 60 housing. Pull the axle shaft, cut off the axle tube around 4" from the end. Cut the shaft at around 6". Have the axle shaft resp lined. Then install bearings at both ends, a flange/yoke facing the transmission, a yoke or cv towards the axle, nut, fill/vent hole, seals, grease or 80/90, and call it good.

Seems like that could be built for less then $100 to re spline and install new bearings. The maintenance would be a set of dana 60 axle bearings, seals, and if you somehow break the shaft (which I doubt) finding and resp lining a 60 axle shaft could be done quickly.

Last edited by cerial; March 17th, 2014 at 01:06 AM. Reason: seals
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Old March 17th, 2014, 08:09 AM   #52
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Yeah, for his piece of shit it will fit right in......
Grandpa is a meany


At least my tires stay on the wheels
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Old March 17th, 2014, 08:10 AM   #53
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It seems some one could say take a bent Dana 60 housing. Pull the axle shaft, cut off the axle tube around 4" from the end. Cut the shaft at around 6". Have the axle shaft resp lined. Then install bearings at both ends, a flange/yoke facing the transmission, a yoke or cv towards the axle, nut, fill/vent hole, seals, grease or 80/90, and call it good.

Seems like that could be built for less then $100 to re spline and install new bearings. The maintenance would be a set of dana 60 axle bearings, seals, and if you somehow break the shaft (which I doubt) finding and resp lining a 60 axle shaft could be done quickly.
Why not recenter the pig for a greater offset?
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Old March 17th, 2014, 09:00 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
It seems some one could say take a bent Dana 60 housing. Pull the axle shaft, cut off the axle tube around 4" from the end. Cut the shaft at around 6". Have the axle shaft resp lined. Then install bearings at both ends, a flange/yoke facing the transmission, a yoke or cv towards the axle, nut, fill/vent hole, seals, grease or 80/90, and call it good.

Seems like that could be built for less then $100 to re spline and install new bearings. The maintenance would be a set of dana 60 axle bearings, seals, and if you somehow break the shaft (which I doubt) finding and resp lining a 60 axle shaft could be done quickly.
Seems like a waste of effort to me versus buying standard, readily available parts and having something simple. Have you ever been half way across the country and needed parts? It sure is nice to be able to overnight in a standard part instead of having something overly complicated that can't be reproduced easily and gains nothing.

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Grandpa is a meany


At least my tires stay on the wheels
Sorry. I forgot you were a sensitive teenager.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 05:19 PM   #55
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[QUOTE=whiterhino;3676197]Have you ever been half way across the country and needed parts?

Yes, I broke a axle shaft on a hp 44 in 04 in West Virgina. Broke a leaf spring at the eye in 06 in southern Indiana. Later in 06 I flopped blowing out the passenger glass and back window.
The spring took a day. The axle shaft was a stock one that I broke a few times before and I planned it breaking having another set of shafts and knuckles in the truck. The glass I just drove it home.

I don't baby or trailer my junk.
The reason my current pile is being overbuilt is so that I can go down to West Virginia, Arizona, Northern New York, Colorado, and where ever I please beating the snot out of it and drive back.

I was just pointing out that you could build the double bearing one that cost $500 for 1/5 the price out of very common parts someone may have laying around and replacement parts that are easy to find at any parts store.
If you used the stub shaft in a 60 steer axle you would have the u joint on the one side already spline'd. If you searched hard enough could probably find a spline'd yoke that slipped onto the end eliminating the flange altogether. I just like the idea of using a rear axle shaft because you have a very sturdy surface to center and mount a common over built flange to. Unless your making 3.5+ times the torque of a stock 1 ton(axle gear ratio) at the transfer case output I doubt your going to break the axle shaft.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 06:29 PM   #56
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Sorry. I forgot you were a sensitive teenager.

Don't be mad my Heep went everywhere yours did and kept the tires on the wheels, all those years of knowledge gone to waste

I am sure I am old enough to be your son, haha.

If Rodney Dangerfield was my dad I would be pissed
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:22 PM   #57
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Don't be mad my Heep went everywhere yours did and kept the tires on the wheels, all those years of knowledge gone to waste

I am sure I am old enough to be your son, haha.

If Rodney Dangerfield was my dad I would be pissed
cuz I broke trail for you. If that is a challenge, maybe we could do a day to see if you could follow me......... let's say ..... in Canada.

Not old enough, young enough. .... junior

Another dumb statement. If Rodney Dangerfield was your dad, you would be rich.

kids.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:24 PM   #58
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cuz I broke trail for you.

Not old enough, young enough. .... junior

Another dumb statement. If Rodney Dangerfield was your dad, you would be rich.

kids.
Puleeeeeeze!




Ok, we need to compete in a wheel off.


I like the pretty colors
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:26 PM   #59
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Glad you like them.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:31 PM   #60
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Glad you like them.
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