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Old March 13th, 2014, 11:27 AM   #1
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Default Carrier bearing / pillow block?

Whats the difference? Or are they just different names for the same part?

I had one on my rig a long time ago it was a rigid style no rubber. I broke it once poor design on my part. I need to run something like this again in the front but I would like more input on making it correctly this time.



How is everyone making they're 2 piece driveshafts work?
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Old March 13th, 2014, 11:48 AM   #2
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The carrier bearing is usually rubber mounted and gives with vibrations. It's normally sealed too. A pillow block is solid mounted and should have some sort of grease fitting in it. Basically the same but depending on the application as to what style you want to run.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 11:54 AM   #3
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I just want strong I don't care about vibes. But I'm not spending $$$ on a wide open design bearing setup.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 11:55 AM   #4
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What are you going to buy then?


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Old March 13th, 2014, 11:56 AM   #5
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Here is what I have. It seems to last about 3 years and then needs replacement. For the space I have, I don't have a better solution. The ones I have taken out are still functional but make noise on the highway.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-SC-1-3...-/220133839745
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Old March 13th, 2014, 12:06 PM   #6
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Why not use one out of a extended cab 1-ton? If they can handle the power of a dualie they should be able to handle your 318.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 01:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Here is what I have. It seems to last about 3 years and then needs replacement. For the space I have, I don't have a better solution. The ones I have taken out are still functional but make noise on the highway.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-SC-1-3...-/220133839745
I have one of those still from the last setup. Do you have just a yoke on one side and a slip on the other? Or two yokes like the wide open designs?
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Old March 13th, 2014, 01:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beefy View Post
I have one of those still from the last setup. Do you have just a yoke on one side and a slip on the other? Or two yokes like the wide open designs?
I think the two yokes will make it last longer and run slips on both drive shafts
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Old March 13th, 2014, 01:50 PM   #9
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ng-tech-7.html
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Old March 13th, 2014, 02:26 PM   #10
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Brandon that link has like 10 different styles
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Old March 13th, 2014, 02:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beefy View Post
I have one of those still from the last setup. Do you have just a yoke on one side and a slip on the other? Or two yokes like the wide open designs?
Best way to explain it;
ujoint on t-case output
slip spline
Pillow block attached to frame
ujoint
slip spline
ujoint at axle
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Best way to explain it;
ujoint on t-case output
slip spline
Pillow block attached to frame
ujoint
slip spline
ujoint at axle
Ok thats how I ran mine last time and had failure within the first 5 runs.

Reading the link that Feva posted this was the reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by patooyee View Post
This:



This:



And this:



... will fail because there is nothing keeping the blue line from turning into the red line.



I know you think the ball bearing will, but anyone who does does not understand the design intent of a ball bearing. The only thing that will keep it from going red is the sides of the bearing race, which are not designed to bear a load.

Maybe not the first trip out, but prematurely for sure. How do I know? Because a long time ago I was dumb and did the same thing, and blue became red within 5 minutes of pulling off the trailer. Once I realized how dumb I was I realized that I had unknowingly made a 2-piece shaft into a 3-piece shaft without incorporating an additional bearing to keep the third shaft straight.
So after reading all that I think I may end up buying a high $$ wide open designs bearing
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:05 PM   #13
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I just called wide open designs all three of these have dual bearings inside of them.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Catego...rivetrain.aspx
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:08 PM   #14
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call branik also may be able to beat wide opens price.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:09 PM   #15
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More specifically Beefy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...l#post24234794

There's another guy there that ordered everything out of the spicer catalog needed and a $24 pillow block. Mounted on a mount similar to the Ibex guy using rubber bushings at the frame. That's how I plan to do it anyway. I will not be buying a $300 WOD set until after pricing parts individually.......but I haz a lathe
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beefy View Post
I just called wide open designs all three of these have dual bearings inside of them.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Catego...rivetrain.aspx
I got the first one
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:18 PM   #17
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Don't have have a frame, cab, rear suspension, and coilover mounts to build yet? Why you so worried about the driveshafts
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:31 PM   #18
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I disagree but don't have time to address it right now. The key is that the spherical has to be allowed to swivel. And no, it can't just wander all over the place. The centerline of the spherical is fixed and unless you can pivot the shaft in an arc at the t-case (which you can't) it cannot make the red X like suggested.

If you have dual yokes like shown, yes it can. That's why you don't want to do that. I'll take a pic tonight.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:40 PM   #19
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Trying to get the $$ part of the build done. Frame is cheap, suspension parts are all here. Driveshafts and shifters are the last big $$ I need.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 03:44 PM   #20
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http://spicerparts.com/sites/default.../joi-app-8.pdf
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dep...px?part=920811
http://spicerparts.com/literature/library

It's all possible, just depends on how much time you want to spend to possibly save $$
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