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Old March 5th, 2014, 11:50 AM   #1
Plato2k5
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Default Build my 727 trans

Went to put in my new cheetah mAnual forward shift valve body a few months ago to find a lot of crap in the trans pan. The rear band was down to bare steel.....looks like the lining was pulled from the band. The trans had a trans go kit and allowed me to shift and downshift at any speed. I would always downshift to slow me down.....guess I need to use more brakes lol.

The clutches look ok, some hot spots but nothing serious. I believe they are stock fractions. The steels are stock.

I am thinking I should go with the red eagle clutches while it's apart. Maybe put in 5 clutches instead of the factory 4 in the front drum? For the bands use the racing red solid bands.

I know I need to get my converted cut open and cleaned and I hear people are saying that alone is $150. Should I just purchase a new torque converter? Is there a way they can figure out my stall speed is have now?

I read to much into this and it seems everyone is saying something different. Need real actual experience. I'm sure racing trans see different stresses then offroad with 40" tires.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 12:03 PM   #2
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so is it behind a 318 or a built 440? rig weight?
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Old March 5th, 2014, 01:30 PM   #3
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Durrrrr sorry. It's behind a mild 360, the cam duration.calls for a 3k stall. I run 4.56 gearing.

Not sure on rig weight...88 th. Full cage, steel bumpers, winch.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 01:39 PM   #4
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3K stall? Those motors make a ton of torque off idle and don't rev very high. I would put the good parts in it and use a low stall converter personally. I have no experience with the 727 but had a th400 behind a big block with the same parts and it hooked hard just off idle.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 02:21 PM   #5
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3k is a bit much for trail rig, I only see it making a ton of heat. I would go with reds and a after market steels.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 05:14 PM   #6
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Exactly what i was thinking for stall.....around town im around 2-2.500 rpm. Is be creating a ton of heat. Seems those that use the kholene steels scotch brute the black off.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 05:49 PM   #7
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Running the better frictions and steels can't hurt but not necessary IMOP, getting clearances and end play correct is more important. I ran stockers in my C4 with close to 700 Hp. Don't forget to adjust clearances for the additonal clutches. I used .007" per clutch in my c4 and it worked out well but I am not familar with a 727. If you can increase clutch count that would be a good idea. I would also use type F fluid.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 07:15 PM   #8
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To obtain the extra clutch people use the thinner clutches. To me that means more chances to warp them under high heat conditions. My trans sits at 210 all day al silver lake with the auxcooler fan on and in 4 low.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 09:36 PM   #9
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I would probably just leave it then, do a good rebuild with same number of clutches, have your converter gone thru or get a new one. What are you running for a trans cooler?
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Old March 5th, 2014, 10:42 PM   #10
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I tun this cooler http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850/overview/ and run a summit deep aluminum finned pan.

Here is my cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-712221-08/

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Old March 6th, 2014, 08:24 AM   #11
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What vehicle is this in? And why do you use 4lo when you have a 360? I ran 2hi only when I had the 350 in my K5, and never touched the lever when I put in the big block. I don't know any of my friends that use 4x4 at the dunes unless they are stuck. You should have plenty of power to skoot across the sand.
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Old March 6th, 2014, 09:33 AM   #12
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In a yj. Trans will overheat if in 2wd or 4hi for prolong use.
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Old March 6th, 2014, 09:40 AM   #13
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Do you know what you have for a converter now? What gears you running? A more efficient converter will help with less heat, maybe your converter has issues?
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Old March 6th, 2014, 09:57 AM   #14
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Killerb had it rebuilt and restalled. I think he said between 1500-2000 depending on engine torque. 4.56 gearing is what I run. Seems everyone says you want to go with the low side of the operating rpm of the cam....so that would be 2200...just not sure how gearing plays into this number.....

I'll have to call around to some converter manufactures and see what they all have to say.
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Old March 6th, 2014, 10:12 AM   #15
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Somethings not right with the converter if it's overheating in 2wd. I would just get a new converter. Is the pump worn out and not moving enough fluid?
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Old March 6th, 2014, 10:20 AM   #16
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The pump gears look great, no slop or anything.

I am not the only one that has this Issue. 3 other people I wheel with have to run low or their trans overheat as well. Is it just due to tire size and lack of lockup?
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Old March 9th, 2014, 03:23 PM   #17
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for what you have you should never over heat the trans. do you have 12" converter or 11"? how you can tell is look at ring gear is the converter all way out the ring gear or back from it like 3/4 of inch, if its back the 3/4" 11" converter. witch will be o-2800 stall from factory. 12" convert will stall 0-1800. if you are over heating the trans your converter is junk!! by 11" turbo action converter I have one that bought it back 1989. its was like $350.00 buy good converter no heat!!
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Old March 10th, 2014, 12:19 PM   #18
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I may be just scraping the 727 and going with a 46re.
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Old March 10th, 2014, 12:50 PM   #19
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Really? I went the other way just traded a guy my spare 46RE for his 727
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Old March 10th, 2014, 12:54 PM   #20
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Yes sir. Still not 100% certainly. The 46re is in a parts truck at the shop I work out of.
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