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Old February 26th, 2014, 03:06 PM   #61
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Old February 26th, 2014, 03:21 PM   #62
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Used that need to be pulled, then scrap rest, hope they are in good shape, send out to grind..... vs. In a box new? Is this the price difference?
True, but if you have that attitude, then you don't say thiings like "these bearings only have 110k miles on them, why do I need to replace them even though I have the engine apart?"




I've got a couple 258s, and was thinking of this, or a 4.0 head on my nice-running 258 in my CJ7, just to do something different. Just hard sorting through all the gotchas on either of these options. There's always the little things that aren't quite compatible, and like 3 different ways to deal with thme, which might or might not be the right way. Valve springs, fuel injectors & pressure, piston quench, crank snout length, pilot bearing, etc...
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Old February 26th, 2014, 03:28 PM   #63
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[QUOTE=2fst4you;3656345]You know nothing Joe



What would you suggest I do to the head?

Port and polish the exhaust ports. And port the intake ports but dont over polish them. The intake ports needs to be semi rough to allow the air fuel mixture to atomized. Then a bit of bowl work to blend them into the port. And some combustion chamber work. Along with a good vvalve job. That will yield more power than stroking the engine. A good bumpstick and new rings and bearings. As long as your cylinder walls dont have a huge ridge just rering it and use your stock pistons if they are in good shape.

Just remember that when bulding a engine cleanliness is next to godliness.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 03:59 PM   #64
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Why not just put a 5.3 in?
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:03 PM   #65
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Why not just put a 5.3 in?
He is going to work his way up to it eventually... After a 4.5 stroker and then a 4.8.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:23 PM   #66
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Why not just put a 5.3 in?
He hasn't even gotten over 4.2 liters yet, slow down, this takes baby steps.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:31 PM   #67
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At first I thought I would individually respond to some of the things you said. But instead I think this will cover it.


You need help, like skooterbuilt levels of help. Stop posting.




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Why would you spend 3-400 on a 258 crank and rods when I see whole motors go for 200 or less all the time
Find me a good running motor for $200.....if you can which you won't I won't be interested I want less than 100k on it

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Used that need to be pulled, then scrap rest, hope they are in good shape, send out to grind..... vs. In a box new? Is this the price difference?
Exactly
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:36 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
True, but if you have that attitude, then you don't say thiings like "these bearings only have 110k miles on them, why do I need to replace them even though I have the engine apart?"




I've got a couple 258s, and was thinking of this, or a 4.0 head on my nice-running 258 in my CJ7, just to do something different. Just hard sorting through all the gotchas on either of these options. There's always the little things that aren't quite compatible, and like 3 different ways to deal with thme, which might or might not be the right way. Valve springs, fuel injectors & pressure, piston quench, crank snout length, pilot bearing, etc...
I didn't say anything about not changing the bearings I asked why the pistons needed to be replaced.

[quote=cj65;3656486]
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Originally Posted by 2fst4you View Post
You know nothing Joe



What would you suggest I do to the head?

Port and polish the exhaust ports. And port the intake ports but dont over polish them. The intake ports needs to be semi rough to allow the air fuel mixture to atomized. Then a bit of bowl work to blend them into the port. And some combustion chamber work. Along with a good vvalve job. That will yield more power than stroking the engine. A good bumpstick and new rings and bearings. As long as your cylinder walls dont have a huge ridge just rering it and use your stock pistons if they are in good shape.

Just remember that when bulding a engine cleanliness is next to godliness.
Ok thanks!

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Why not just put a 5.3 in?
I don't have the money right now just figured id make a lil more power out of my 4.0 while I have it apart

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Originally Posted by 8PTBUCK View Post
He is going to work his way up to it eventually... After a 4.5 stroker and then a 4.8.
Rebuild 4.0 possibly making it a 4.5 then 5.3 some day. Atleast I actually wheel joe and don't want to take my 35s off to make it a plow truck on 33s
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:38 PM   #69
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Does the 4.0 still run fine? Keep running it, save for 5.3

/thread


Thanks for wasting everyone's time. Bye
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:54 PM   #70
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Rebuild 4.0 possibly making it a 4.5 then 5.3 some day. Atleast I actually wheel joe and don't want to take my 35s off to make it a plow truck on 33s
I have a goldfish.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:28 PM   #71
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Does the 4.0 still run fine? Keep running it, save for 5.3

/thread


Thanks for wasting everyone's time. Bye
It runs fine but burns oil badly. Smokes horribly and I want to fix that
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:50 PM   #72
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It runs fine but burns oil badly. Smokes horribly and I want to fix that
If thats all it is its most likely valve guides and seals. Redo the head or buy a new rebulit head and be done with it. Rings could be worn but highly unlikely. When the heads off take a look at the cylinder walls and see if there is a major ridge. If there is then rering it also. If it was mine id re bearing and ring it with new oil pump and a rebulit head. Then run it till u have the cash for a 5.3 swap.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 07:05 PM   #73
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Default 4.5 stroker

Like stated before jus take your motor apart and see what is wrong with it before you assume it needs a complete rebuild
It could just need a rebuilt head like stated then you can rebuild your head, have head work done and maybe even a cam and be done with it
You wouldn't even need to pull the motor
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Old February 26th, 2014, 07:09 PM   #74
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He's not going to do anything mentioned here in this thread.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 07:24 PM   #75
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You should look for a ford 5.0.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 08:47 PM   #77
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Haha


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Old February 26th, 2014, 09:49 PM   #78
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If thats all it is its most likely valve guides and seals. Redo the head or buy a new rebulit head and be done with it. Rings could be worn but highly unlikely. When the heads off take a look at the cylinder walls and see if there is a major ridge. If there is then rering it also. If it was mine id re bearing and ring it with new oil pump and a rebulit head. Then run it till u have the cash for a 5.3 swap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wramblerguy View Post
Like stated before jus take your motor apart and see what is wrong with it before you assume it needs a complete rebuild
It could just need a rebuilt head like stated then you can rebuild your head, have head work done and maybe even a cam and be done with it
You wouldn't even need to pull the motor
Will do. For the ones that have helped thanks a lot to the rest of you
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Old February 27th, 2014, 07:02 AM   #79
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You should look for a ford 5.0.
I seen a used Coyote motor go for under $200, I would look into ford 5.0's
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Old February 27th, 2014, 07:11 AM   #80
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If all else fails I have a good running 225cid slant 6 form a 1963 dart!
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