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Old December 13th, 2013, 07:51 AM   #1
kensdodge1
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I'm gonna run this up the pole and see if anyone salutes. I'm in the beginning stages of buildin a frame for my jeep m715 cab and nose. Drivetrain will be a lq4 6.0, nv4500, 241/205 doubler 60 front with 52" springs with a shackle reversal and a 14 bolt rear with 56" springs. The frame design so far looks similar to the picture below with a total length of 181" and 33" wide. Now this truck will be street drivin to wheelin spots and cruise nights with my pops. I guess what I'm lookin for here is a critique of my plans and see what and if any of y'all have built similar rigs. I have done alot of searching but have not seen alot of rigs other than small jeeps and tube buggies



in case ya dont know what an m715 looks like
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:00 AM   #2
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how many crossbeams are you planning for? pretty flexy right now.
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:04 AM   #3
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I'm thinkin 3) 1) rigid engine 1) removable trans and then another rigid above the rear axle. I will be adding a cage to this also since the truck has no roof.
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:11 AM   #4
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the center of the frame is going to be where the most flex is. (hope that is common knowledge)

not knowing how thick your rectangular tube is for the frame, hard to tell how much it will flex. I'd run FEA, if you can, and pin two opposite corners, and put 5k# on the other two, one pointing up, one pointing down, and see how much flex there is in the system. (This should hopefully exceed your worst case scenario)

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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:21 AM   #5
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It's 3/16 wall 2x3 the cage will be .120 wall ews tube this build is a test bed for my dedicated wheelers next evolution
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:26 AM   #6
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oh, missed the part about the cage, that will help a lot based on how you tie it in to the frame.
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:28 AM   #7
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Put one near back of cab/rear leaf mounts. Then in addition to the others you listed I feel like that would be fine. I would build a cross member/winch mount behind the front bumper. Extra strength and give it a clean look with a winch installed. Also if you do a belly skid that would strengthen it up a lot as well as offer protection. Love the 715's they are sweet!
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Old December 13th, 2013, 08:36 AM   #8
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I havent thought to hard on the cage as of yet basically because i havent decided on the seats or my bed options yet. I will tie the cage to the tops of the rails so as not to put to much side load on the rails. i know that it will have a engine hoop to to tie the front bumper tubes into. I had thought about the skid plate Idea and the benefits of it Thanks

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Old December 13th, 2013, 09:50 AM   #9
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I'm sure lousypirate can chime in on this idea but to me 3" tall box seems to short for a long wheel base vehicle like a 715. The height of the box tube will make more of a difference than the wall thickness in flex up and down. If it were me I would try to bump up to 4"-6" tall box tube if possible unless I was going to do a cage that went from front to back of the truck with a lot of triangulation. The problem with doing that much cage is making it look good while trying to keep the look of a vintage truck. The other issue I see is the bushings on your leaf springs are probably 3.5" wide (correct me if I'm wrong). I would try to match the width of the bushings with the width of the box tube (if possible) so when you plate the outside with the integrated leaf mounts the bushings will slide right in.

If it were me (without really looking at it, just imagining)-

-frame just like you got it except with larger box tube.

-build a cage that fits inside the engine compartment and cab that ties together and also ties into the frame.

-reinforce the box with tube or whatever you can to make it not look like it isn't heavily modified.

- tie the box cage into the cab cage with rubber bushings in the front 4 corners of the bed.

-rubber mount the frame tie-ins for the cage, bed, box and front clip.

I could be completely off on this whole thing, that is just what is coming to mind right now so take it with a grain of salt. :Sonicjay:

That is a really cool project so make sure to do a build thread. I would like to see it come together!
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:10 AM   #10
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Chad you guys are givin me exactly what i was lookin for i went with 2x3 tube because it was what was recommended by a few people mostly. This truck wont be used for any hardcore offroading mostly trails some mud and hill climbs but for the most part it will be a mall crawler and a test bed. At 181" it wont be a very long truck the bed area will be very short prolly not even a 6' box length the reason i'm building a frame for this truck is i cant find a decent stock frame that aint rotted to hell or that someone doesnt want a butt load of money for. i will be sure to start a build thread on this truck Thanks for the replies and lets keep them coming if ya have pics please by all means post them up. Here is a pic of my dedicated wheeler soon to be linked with rockwells when this truck is done the wagon will go under the knife

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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:18 AM   #11
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Is that an old powerwagon? Its sweet!
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:22 AM   #12
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I think you could get away with the 2x3 IF you did a front to back cage. I personally still wouldn't but that is just me but keep in mind I am completely retarded and will break anything I touch so I would rather go a little overboard while building and not have to worry about it. :Sonicjay:
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:29 AM   #13
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I hear ya chad and believe me i have broken enough stuff to realize when to lift however in the old power wagon there is no such thing as lifting the stupid pedal is always on the floor.
yes it is a 1942 dodge wc-12 power wagon with tons and a 537 hp 406 sbc
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:29 AM   #14
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I am in agreement with Chad.

If you do go with the 2x3 box, I would strongly recommend capping the angled cuts on each end as well. maybe even gusseting the bottom and/or top and outboard the leaf springs.

A good cage goes a long ways. even if you did a back-half for the bed area.

Look up ford and chevy truck chassis flex, you might see what we're talking about. or look at Coyote_Red's avatar. he does this everywhere he goes because their frames are junk.


I could make a frame out of flat stock if I wanted to. I just don't want to have to do the supporting design to make it work.

Chad, That excel sheet I sent ya doing you any good?
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:31 AM   #15
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What is your actual wheelbase going to be Front axle to rear axle?
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
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What is your actual wheelbase going to be Front axle to rear axle?
holy shit good point. I didn't pay that close attention, i read 118" wheelbase.

64" wheelbase (by my calculations). talk about a go kart.
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:34 AM   #17
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I haven't had too much time to mess with it yet but from what I have done so far it seems to be exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot, I owe you a beer or six!
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
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holy shit good point. I didn't pay that close attention, i read 118" wheelbase.

64" wheelbase (by my calculations). talk about a go kart.
I did the same thing

If he is bobbing the rear behind the axle it may not be as short as it seems. My thoughts were how is he going to fit a doubler in that short of a vehicle.
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I haven't had too much time to mess with it yet but from what I have done so far it seems to be exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot, I owe you a beer or six!
If I had a dollar for every time I made an excel sheet for someone, I could afford something more than $5

I made one to prove to my mom why it was worthless to wait 20 minutes to fill up and save 5 cents a gallon, same as driving x miles away to get fuel to save y cents. She was astounded at my results

Also had to make one for someone to tell them what size tires to run to make up for difference in axle ratios

I remember those two more clearly offhand...
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Old December 13th, 2013, 10:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcooper55 View Post
I did the same thing

If he is bobbing the rear behind the axle it may not be as short as it seems. My thoughts were how is he going to fit a doubler in that short of a vehicle.
he stated leaves, so you could only bob to rear of leaves. my calculation was just taking half of the eye to eye measurement and subtracting that from total length. if he was going link in the rear, or link in the front, it might end up being OK.

Imagine trying to run 40" tires, you'd have 20" in between the tires, less when you turn full lock.
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