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Old February 9th, 2014, 10:39 AM   #21
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I don't mean to sound like I'm ragging on your build, but those tie-ins are questionable at best. That rear support is essentially useless. In a hard hit it's just gonna buckle almost like it's not even there. Slight bends aren't a big deal, but having it zigzag around like that takes it totally out of line with the load direction. Besides the tailgate support, which you could easily go through, I can't tell what it is you're trying to clear, but I'd definitely add some more bracing to give it some vertical support.

The front supports appear to be welded directly to the 16-18ga body crossmember, leaving a 1-2" gap between the cage floor mounts and frame tie-in. They'd just crush together in a hard hit. Seems like you're relying on some fairly weak sections of sheetmetal to hold together your rig. Will it save your life in a rollover? Probably. But it'll trash the rig and cage in the process. If you're gonna go through all that work, do it right the first time so you don't have to redo everything the first time you put the Jeep on its lid. You can EASILY make it hold up so it'll save your life and do little to no damage to the rig.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 11:09 AM   #22
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Here are a few examples of how I did a buddy's TJ recently. I know the LJ is different in some areas, but a lot of the basic stuff is the same. I mounted it with bushings, but most of the same rules apply for rigid mounts.

Slight bend to clear the tailgate brace. Could easily notch the brace or go thru it if you're keeping the tie-in tighter to the framerail.


Another slight bend to clear the fuel filler:




Even welding the mounts directly to the body I'd use plates so you can spread the load out more. Remember, you're mounting directly to sheetmetal. It tends to crack or tear more easily after repeated load cycles. The more you spread the load the better it'll hold up. It's also a good idea to make the top and bottom plates different sizes so they don't have a shearing effect on the sheetmetal that's clamped between them.

Plate under A pillar to spread load too.


Here's how I braced between the floor plate and lower body crossmember underneath the A pillar. It's just a piece of tube to take the load. There are other ways to do it, but this is the basic idea to transfer the load to the rigid plate, rather than just hoping the sheetmetal doesn't crush together.


You get the idea. It just seems pretty half assed to me to weld major structural items directly to sheetmetal, especially when those surfaces have gaps to other structural members.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 11:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ View Post
Here are a few examples of how I did a buddy's TJ recently. I know the LJ is different in some areas, but a lot of the basic stuff is the same. I mounted it with bushings, but most of the same rules apply for rigid mounts.

Slight bend to clear the tailgate brace. Could easily notch the brace or go thru it if you're keeping the tie-in tighter to the framerail.


Another slight bend to clear the fuel filler:




Even welding the mounts directly to the body I'd use plates so you can spread the load out more. Remember, you're mounting directly to sheetmetal. It tends to crack or tear more easily after repeated load cycles. The more you spread the load the better it'll hold up. It's also a good idea to make the top and bottom plates different sizes so they don't have a shearing effect on the sheetmetal that's clamped between them.

Plate under A pillar to spread load too.


Here's how I braced between the floor plate and lower body crossmember underneath the A pillar. It's just a piece of tube to take the load. There are other ways to do it, but this is the basic idea to transfer the load to the rigid plate, rather than just hoping the sheetmetal doesn't crush together.


You get the idea. It just seems pretty half assed to me to weld major structural items directly to sheetmetal, especially when those surfaces have gaps to other structural members.
Great feedback thanks for all the photos and explanations it definitely helps!!! When you were referring to the body mounts in the middle of the jeep being just welded to the two sheet-metal... I guess I should have explained a little bit more I used a holesaw to cut clean through both pieces of sheet metal and put plates inside connecting to the cage... When I welded everything up I just didn't think it would hurt to also weld it to the sheet-metal both under and on top of the body... But that was by no means the structural support for it...

In terms of the back tie in for the cage... You're probably right I probably bent it at too extreme of an angle... I am in the process of mounting rear coil overs... And I have a feeling I'm going to be connecting the frame in the cage multiple times and basically back halving it Like I did with my last couple TJ builds... I guess you can't see it from the photo but there is a plate attached to the cage that is 5/16 inches thick and 8" x 6" wide!!! I kind of went overboard on the theory of spreading out the weight proportion!

Thanks again for the feedback I like your design shots and gave me a few things to think about... I have obviously decided to hard mount everything rather than use Poly spacers. I guess over time we will see if it was the right decision or not!
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Old February 9th, 2014, 02:56 PM   #24
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Like I said before, I'm hard mounting everything on mine too, but I'm bolting it at the body rather than welding. Hopefully it doesn't allow movement and pop and groan much. If so some strategic tack welds should take care of it.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 03:56 PM   #25
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I would also recommend practice welding before committing to welding roll cage bars and other structural components. If you need to grind them down to make them look acceptable they are probably not good welds to begin with.

Nice work otherwise.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 04:17 PM   #26
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Thumbs up for working in a uninsulated barn this time a year . I like seeing your builds please keep posting the details.

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Old February 9th, 2014, 05:06 PM   #27
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Thanks for the feedback, bbaxj got a build page?! Would love to read more
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Old February 9th, 2014, 05:06 PM   #28
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Started the rear coil over process... Tied the frame into the cage and started building shock mounts





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Old February 11th, 2014, 02:01 AM   #29
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Had to gain 3/4 in... So I frenched in a some 1/4 in steel brackets I made then mounted the rear coilovers... Photos are at full droop...

Before...









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Old February 18th, 2014, 12:11 AM   #30
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Front factory coil spring mounts gone and fronded down for the front coilover process to start!
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Old February 19th, 2014, 09:39 PM   #31
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Picked up new battery ... I have had several optima batteries and they just haven't lasted very long seems like the last as long as they're Warranteed for about two years and that's it!

My grandfather was a heavy machinery contact tractor and swore by deka batteries... So I found this deka battery at Napa it's AGM with gel for about 175 bucks with the seven-year warranty!

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Old February 22nd, 2014, 08:36 AM   #32
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It is always a tough decision to decide whether to have something powder coated or to do the painting yourself so with this project I have decided to have anything that's going to get beat up regularly such as the chassis the stinger the rock rails and the skins painted with the three stage Kbs coating... That way I can touch it up whenever I need to and I have been very impressed with the product... So being that I am working in my garage in a Wisconsin winter and the company recommends that rhey cure at 80 degrees I needed to make a heating house ... so I painted them on a set of sawhorses and then made a cardboard tent with the heater underneath them to bake them
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Old February 22nd, 2014, 08:41 AM   #33
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Started the front coilover setup process still have a lot of work to do on it but here is where I am so far any suggestions?! Everything cycles correctly so it this point I just need to continue tying everything in... And reinforcing it. Plan on connecting the coil over hoops to the inside tubes of the fenders and also Installing a removable brace over the engine... I am sure I will weld on a few more gussets in the process
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Old February 23rd, 2014, 07:54 AM   #34
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Used KBS chassis coater on the chassis and roll cage

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Old February 23rd, 2014, 08:59 AM   #35
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Looking good !

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Old February 23rd, 2014, 09:50 AM   #36
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you ar prety much copy ing what i did looks prety good
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Old February 23rd, 2014, 09:51 AM   #37
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Ha ha nice! Send me a link to your build would love to see it!
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Old February 23rd, 2014, 09:59 PM   #38
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Cut holes in hood for coilover mounts to stick through... And holes for hood louvres (which i'll install after the hood is painted... All the holes will get auto trim too!





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Old February 24th, 2014, 05:42 AM   #39
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Looking nice. FYI, although my hood louvers worked, I hated that rain & mud could drop down on the engine & electrical stuff. I eliminated them on my rebuild.
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Old February 24th, 2014, 07:21 AM   #40
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And you don't really need them since you cut big fn holes in the hood right next to the louvers.
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