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Old September 4th, 2013, 01:58 PM   #21
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Some later 95 yjs had the larger joint but that's it
The drivers side shaft is the same as a zj/xj/tj and can be swapped and a one piece passenger side can also be swapped in with the addition on a seal in the pumpkin
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Old September 4th, 2013, 04:43 PM   #22
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guy i know has a vac disconnect small joint axle in a TJ
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Old September 4th, 2013, 05:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skife View Post
guy i know has a vac disconnect small joint axle in a TJ
its high pinion isnt it?
tj came with a low pinion
someone swapped it in
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Old September 4th, 2013, 07:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wramblerguy View Post
its high pinion isnt it?
tj came with a low pinion
someone swapped it in
somebody for sure swapped it in.
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Old September 4th, 2013, 08:50 PM   #25
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Maybe mine were swapped before I bought it?
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Old September 5th, 2013, 04:27 PM   #26
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So maybe I will jusy get a 8.8 rear and install wj front knuckles on my d30
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Old September 5th, 2013, 06:28 PM   #27
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So maybe I will jusy get a 8.8 rear and install wj front knuckles on my d30
Do some research on that though because I think you need a unit bearing spacer
The wj knuckles aren't a simple bolt on
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Old September 5th, 2013, 07:13 PM   #28
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And then you will have the wrong bolt pattern in the front as well. WJ hubs are different.

If you wanted rebuildable/awesome, go with reid racing conversion knuckles that use 44 outer stuff and pick the bolt pattern of choice!

Last edited by kkodet; September 5th, 2013 at 08:21 PM.
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Old September 5th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Route55 View Post
And then you will have the wrong bolt pattern in the front as well. WJ hubs are different.

If you wanted rebuildable/awesome, go with reid racing conversion knuckles that use 44 outer stuff and pick the bolt pattern of choice!
Hats what the unit bearing spacer is for, so you can use the yj unit bearing with the correct pattern

And what does that kit cost?
More then what a Dana 30 is worth I'm sure
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Old September 5th, 2013, 10:02 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wramblerguy View Post
Hats what the unit bearing spacer is for, so you can use the yj unit bearing with the correct pattern

And what does that kit cost?
More then what a Dana 30 is worth I'm sure
About $600. It is kind of a "pay to play" thing. With the strong aftermarket support of the 30 and the 60, the dana 44 is becoming kind of a pointless axle. You can build a 30 just as strong as a 44, yet be lighter.
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Old September 5th, 2013, 10:09 PM   #31
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I'm not sure i agree with that
Yes you can throw a ton of money at a 30 and make parts if it as strong as a 44 but not the whole thing
It still is going to have thinner tubes weaker inner cs and a weaker ring gear and you can't fix those without adding more weight
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Old September 5th, 2013, 10:21 PM   #32
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The tubes and C's are only an issue if you plan to jump it and such. Proper trussing and gusseting cures that.

The ring gear itself is plenty strong if set up right as long as you aren't trying to push 500 hp through it.

And, a HP30 R&P is rated stronger than a LP 44 R&P.
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Old September 6th, 2013, 05:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Route55 View Post
The tubes and C's are only an issue if you plan to jump it and such. Proper trussing and gusseting cures that.

The ring gear itself is plenty strong if set up right as long as you aren't trying to push 500 hp through it.

And, a HP30 R&P is rated stronger than a LP 44 R&P.
Not true, I see a knuckle rip right of within just wheeling no airtime involved
There is lots of people that have bent cs and weren't jumping their jeeps

And that hp30 is only rated for more when your going forward
Whet you go in reverse its much weaker and that's when it has the most weight and force on it

And back to the price, why would you spend 600 bucks on a kit to get lockout when you can buy a whole Dana 44 that came with that equipment for less then $200 and when you have to change your bolt pattern anyway idk why you wouldn't
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Old September 6th, 2013, 06:18 AM   #34
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A knuckle ripping off? Are you talking ball joint failure? A knuckle swap of any sort will not solve that. And the c's on 30's are very similar to 44's, even the same on the Rubicon axles I believe.

As for me I wouldn't run a 30 anyway. My point is a 44 isn't much better.

If I wanted light and strong I'd go Toyota or custom 9 inch. Stock parts and strong, 60 all day.

Last edited by kkodet; September 6th, 2013 at 07:14 AM.
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Old September 6th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #35
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Well I have a matched set of a d44hp and a d60 out of a 79' F-250 I'll sell for $350. Those would work nicely in his Jeep.
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Old September 6th, 2013, 02:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Route55 View Post
A knuckle ripping off? Are you talking ball joint failure? A knuckle swap of any sort will not solve that. And the c's on 30's are very similar to 44's, even the same on the Rubicon axles I believe.

As for me I wouldn't run a 30 anyway. My point is a 44 isn't much better.

If I wanted light and strong I'd go Toyota or custom 9 inch. Stock parts and strong, 60 all day.
Inner c is the same on the rubicon 44 which IMHO isn't any better over a Dana 30
And I see it all the the time bent tubes bent c's just from wheeling or annihilated c's from ballpoint failure, problems that just don't occur with a real 44

I agree about the 8" or 9" with the light and strong I'm just saying that there are many advantages to an old school Dana 44 over a modern Dana 30
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Old September 6th, 2013, 03:03 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 93yj06unlimited View Post
Well I have a matched set of a d44hp and a d60 out of a 79' F-250 I'll sell for $350. Those would work nicely in his Jeep.
Good deal, and yes they would!
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Old September 6th, 2013, 03:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wramblerguy View Post
Inner c is the same on the rubicon 44 which IMHO isn't any better over a Dana 30
And I see it all the the time bent tubes bent c's just from wheeling or annihilated c's from ballpoint failure, problems that just don't occur with a real 44

I agree about the 8" or 9" with the light and strong I'm just saying that there are many advantages to an old school Dana 44 over a modern Dana 30
I pretty much agree with you. I guess the point I'm trying to make is in stock form, yes a 44 hp is better. But if you are going to "build" it, either a 30 for bolt in or a 60 is a better choice. "Building" a 44 is just kind of a waste.
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Old September 6th, 2013, 04:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
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I pretty much agree with you. I guess the point I'm trying to make is in stock form, yes a 44 hp is better. But if you are going to "build" it, either a 30 for bolt in or a 60 is a better choice. "Building" a 44 is just kind of a waste.
I still don't see the extra work or moving some doing perches as a big deal with the benefits
If you gonna build a yj axle build something good
And sometimes a 60 is just too much axle
Like for me I'm running 35s and went with the 44 for basically lockout hubs and a stronger 4.88 gearset
A 60 would just be overkill
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Old September 19th, 2013, 06:39 AM   #40
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Edit, my reply was based on a TJ platform
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