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Old December 7th, 2013, 03:26 PM   #1
Flexin' XJ
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Default 03 Sierra 5.3

When it is cold, after starting and for approximately 5 minutes of run time, the engine runs rough. Seems like it has a performance cam, (brap, brap, brap, brap, brap) If I raise the idle just a bit it runs fine. Once it gets warmed up it runs fine. Engine has 190K, newer plugs and wires.

Any ideas?
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Old December 7th, 2013, 04:10 PM   #2
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I had a 5.0 '94 F-150 that did that, it had a bad coolant temp sensor.
Might be something to look into. Mine also was hard starting on a warm engine.
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Old December 7th, 2013, 04:11 PM   #3
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This starts fine. It had a service engine light on bit went away and I haven't checked it out yet.
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Old December 7th, 2013, 04:14 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Flexin' XJ View Post
This starts fine. It had a service engine light on bit went away and I haven't checked it out yet.
I bet if you find out what it was it will lead you to the issue.

Prob misfire due to coil or 02 sensor
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Old December 7th, 2013, 05:09 PM   #5
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Possibly. I just haven't had time to get it scanned. Plus the light is out but it is still happening. No change with or without the light.
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Old December 7th, 2013, 05:10 PM   #6
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Clean the mass air flow sensor
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Old December 7th, 2013, 05:11 PM   #7
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Default 03 Sierra 5.3

I have had issues with it but it was because of the oil on my k&n filter.

Does the engine even use the maf sensor during open loop?
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Old December 7th, 2013, 05:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Possibly. I just haven't had time to get it scanned. Plus the light is out but it is still happening. No change with or without the light.
The code should still be logged.
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Old December 8th, 2013, 11:04 AM   #9
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Speaking from experience, you can guess all day long. Some times you can "clean stuff" to make them last a bit longer. But, that is really just a trail fix. I have done it though, on short term junkers.
On anything you plan on being reliable it is not worth "cleaning" and reinstalling the old parts. You really need to rent a quality tester and use it properly. Cleaning stuff goes hand and hand with using a paper clip tester and that time has come and passed. Most of the parts are cheap and easy to install making any form of cleaning a waste of time. Fix it right the first time.

Call a few auto parts places by you and find one that rents a tester. Or find someone that had a tester near you for your model. Follow the dang instructions to the letter.

Plug it in and make a note of any past codes then unplug the tester per the instructions. If you have had your battery in your truck connected for a while you may see codes from past repairs. You will also see some codes which may not come up during the following test drive.

Then clear the codes by disconnecting your battery for a few minutes, turning on the key with the battery disconnected (you may hear a few relays click or radio come on for a second), and reconnect your battery.

Turn the key, wait for around 15 seconds for all the gauges sweep and relays to click.
Then drive it for 15 minutes city/highway driving. You want it to go through a range of temperatures, rpm ranges, gears, and such.

If you have 4wd after you have done the above take it down a dirt road and place it in 4 low, 4 high, and then back into 2wd with around of 100 feet driving in each range. Back up 15 feet somewhere in that 100 feet while in those different ranges.

Be gentle with the throttle right after changing ranges to avoid jarring the gears, relays, servos, etc within the transfer-case/transmission.

Take it back to the house let it run for a few seconds before shutting it off. Then let the truck cool over a hour. This is to avoid the fans or other automated systems kicking on while your testing.

Plug in the tester per the instructions again and then you will have your current codes. You can now compare your old to the current codes to avoid renting a tester a second time. Although, testing around every 30k (15k for high abuse/mileage) will catch most issues.

Doing all of the above are general steps which will work with any post 87 truck/car to obtain any engine codes, transmission, ABS, transfer case, sliding door, and "rear axle" codes.

In some cases (like my "depth finder" 01 tj) you will get a code through the mileage/ radio/ or somewhere on the dash display during the incident without a tester which you will need to give to a dealership to find out what they are. But, a Google search will generally tell you what the codes are now a days.

Whatever it is most parts are plug and play and impossible to screw up as long as you follow the steps.
If you don't feel alright doing any of the above take it to a recommended shop.

Good luck.
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Old December 8th, 2013, 12:09 PM   #10
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My guess is o2 sensor. you need to hook it up to a scanner and see whats going on. the change over from running to good to rough is probably happening when the truck is going from open loop to closed loop. which in turn uses the o2 sensors to control fuel output.


that being said you need to get it on a scanner(a real one not the dorks at autozone)
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Old December 8th, 2013, 12:31 PM   #11
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Buy a Bluetooth adaptor that plugs into a Bluetooth and get the free android smart phone app named "torque". Then you have your own tester. Like others said get the code and that should tell you what's wrong.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 11:12 AM   #12
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I took it to "The Zone" yesterday and I have like 27 history codes. Mostly encoder motor codes. But I had a couple MAF codes, Bank 1 and 2 lean codes, P0300 random misfire code alone with a couple others. And since I have had issues with my MAF before I am going to replace it with a new one. It is possible the wires just outside the connector are bad but last I looked they looked okay.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 11:24 AM   #13
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Bank 1 and 2 lean codes are what happened to my truck when the o2 sensor went bad. As others said, run the codes and go from there.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 11:27 AM   #14
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That is my second thought. I'm figuring the MAF is causing the engine to run lean, which is causing the misfire, and causing the exhaust gasses to be lean.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 11:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexin' XJ View Post
That is my second thought. I'm figuring the MAF is causing the engine to run lean, which is causing the misfire, and causing the exhaust gasses to be lean.
I don't recall the exact code my truck was puking but the Autozone homies were able to read the code and it pointed directly to the exact o2 sensor that was bad. If yours is pointing to MAF start there, I'd bet good money that if it doesn't fix the problem it will at least narrow down the 27 codes you have thrown and give you a much better starting point to the next aprt to replace to fix it proper
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Old December 9th, 2013, 06:42 PM   #16
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I don't recall the exact code my truck was puking but the Autozone homies were able to read the code and it pointed directly to the exact o2 sensor that was bad. If yours is pointing to MAF start there, I'd bet good money that if it doesn't fix the problem it will at least narrow down the 27 codes you have thrown and give you a much better starting point to the next aprt to replace to fix it proper
Probably both but good to start with one thing at a time.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 07:18 PM   #17
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Sounds like intake gaskets are going bad, and you should never arbitrarily adjust the throttle stop screw. There is a minimum throttle opening that is digitally measured and has to be within a spec. Turning that screw fucks shit up. It
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