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Old August 28th, 2013, 09:24 PM   #61
FORD FLARESIDE
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a few more pics;
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Old August 29th, 2013, 07:42 AM   #62
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Default Nevermind, found it.

For you expierienced and wise senior mechanics......
.......apparently this Lincoln has the Hydro-boost brake system, do you have a link or can you give me the basics on how this system works?

Found this;

Understanding the Hydro-Boost Brake Booster on 1975/76 Mercury Grand Monarch Ghia


In 1975 and 1976, all Mercury Grand Monarch Ghias were equipped with a hydraulically-powered brake booster (that is, hydro-boost) system. According to a 1975/1976 Lincoln-Mercury Division advertising brochure, only the Continental Mark IV and the new small luxury Mercury Grand Monarch Ghia had hydro-boost, 4-wheel disc brakes as a standard feature. In 1977, the Mercury Grand Monarch Ghia series and the hydro-boost system migrated to the Lincoln Versailles series.
The power steering pump provides the fluid pressure to operate both the hydraulically-powered brake booster (hydro-boost) and the power steering gear. The hydro-boost assembly contains an open center spool valve that controls pump pressure magnitude during braking, a lever mechanism to control the position of the valve, and a boost piston to provide the force necessary to operate a conventional master cylinder that is attached to the front end of the booster. The hydro-boost also has a reserve system (spring-loaded accumulator) that is designed to store sufficient fluid under pressure to provide at least two (2) brake applications in the event that the fluid flow from the power steering pump is not available. The brakes can also be applied manually if the reserve system is depleted.


The inputs and outputs to the hydro-boost assembly include:
  • Pump pressure port
  • Port to steering gear
  • Return to pump reservoir
The hydraulic hoses connecting the hydro-boost assembly to the power-steering gear, power-steering pump, pump reservoir, and oil cooler include the following:
  • Hose (3A719) from Booster to Power Steering Gear (3504) <--> Hose (3A713) from Power Steering Gear to Oil Cooler (3D746) <--> Hose (3A005) from Oil Cooler to Power Steering Pump (3A674)
  • Hose (3F523) from Booster to Power Steering Pump (confirm)
  • Hose (3A005) from Booster to xxx
The hydro-boost is serviced as an assembly only. There is a shop in Oregon that rebuilds hydro-boost assemblies --- Brake Booster rebuild - $85 USD, 1-day turnaround, 1960 to 1990, plating available. 4533 SE Division, Portland, Oregon, USA 97206. Telephone “Booster” Dewey 503.238.8882.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 08:27 AM   #63
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Wanting to swap a hydro-boost on my XJ for better braking. Ask Tim how well it works on his Bronco.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 03:03 PM   #64
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My fuel tank is full of granular rust from sitting, what are my options for removing the rust, other than buying a new tank?
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Old August 30th, 2013, 03:05 PM   #65
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Buy a new tank!
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Old August 30th, 2013, 03:08 PM   #66
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Buy a new tank!
x2
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:11 PM   #67
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Not an option this weekend
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:23 PM   #68
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I would also recommend a new tank, but I have cleaned them out with a piece of chain dropped in and swished around
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:33 PM   #69
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Not an option this weekend
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I would also recommend a new tank, but I have cleaned them out with a piece of chain dropped in and swished around
I can't get a new tank until next week Thursday, and was hoping to get it running this weekend.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:35 PM   #70
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How about a boat gas tank ?
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:39 PM   #71
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I don't have one of those either
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:41 PM   #72
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I do
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Old August 30th, 2013, 04:45 PM   #73
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Well then maybe I will stop by after LKQ IN the morning.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #74
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Vinegar and a bunch of magnetic hardware. Add the hardware and some vinegar and swish. Remove hardware (where the magnetic part plays its key role), then fill deep enough to cover all the rust and let it sit for 24 hours. Rinse with water and dry with a heat gun. Fill with gas asap and keep it filled with gas to prevent any further rusting or buy a tank liner kit.

That's how I do bike tanks, but I think I'd just replace a tank for a car. That's a lot of vinegar.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 08:37 PM   #75
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Use a gas can for the weekend to get it going....buy a new tank to dd it
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Old September 2nd, 2013, 09:03 AM   #76
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A turbo set up won't be cheap or easy. But it would be super sweet. Maybe someday down the road. I like the big "detroit steel wheels" linked earlier.

Is the bolt pattern 5x5? If so...

Spare Jeep wheels, 17x7.5 5x5 bolt pattern


Or new Jeep takeoffs 17x7.5 5x5

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Old September 2nd, 2013, 11:46 AM   #77
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I'm not sure what the bolt pattern for the wheel is yet, but I will measure today.

I ran the car for a better part of a 1/2 hour today. I brought it up to temp, good oil pressure, no ticks or thunks.
The AC even turned on and worked.

I will have to go through the carb with a rebuild kit, but so far so good.

The new fuel tank should be here sometime this week.
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Old September 5th, 2013, 03:04 PM   #78
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Fed-x dropped off the fuel tank yesterday, It should be drivable tomorrow.

I did clean up some of the surface rust underneath, and painted a couple of the items to match factory color. The blue axle is a little too much for me, but that is what was there originally. ( I may paint it black)
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Old September 5th, 2013, 03:05 PM   #79
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Quote:
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Fed-x dropped off the fuel tank yesterday, It should be drivable tomorrow.
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Old September 8th, 2013, 02:00 PM   #80
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I took it for a test drive, seems to have a few vacuum leaks and I still need to rebuild the carb. She drives quite well though considering her age.
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