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Old June 29th, 2013, 12:03 PM   #1
Carbon
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Default Chevy Dana 44 Cut & Turn For Scout

First off I have a 76 Scout 2 chassis that I am building into a truggy. Has IH 345 v8, Dana 44's front and back, s10 cab, bla bla bla so far.

I have been doing a bunch of research on the cut & turn, Chevy vs. scout axles, steering, SOA and all that stuff. I have found so much good info and I am sure most if not all of my questions have been answered.

I do how ever have a few questions, but just to be clear.

I plan to pull a Dana 44 out of a 79 GMC 3/4 ton. The truck also has a rear Corp 14 bolt which I thought about running but am quickly changing my mind as it will hang down so low. Both axles have 4:10 gears which I am planning on starting with. The scout has 307 gears which is no good to me.

I was going to go full width with the Chevy Dana 44 and Corp 14 but now plan to keep the Dana 44 rear in the scout and cut & turn the front Chevy Dana 44 to fit my chassis. The reason I plan to do this is that the SOA is already done with the Chevy axle, the gears I want are already in the Chevy axle and not having to grind into the scout axle to mount my perch on the short end is a better idea as far as strength.

So my question is: other then having to get 12* shims for the front and getting my caster correct the front should be easy. I plan to use my scout hubs and what not. What will I be needing for a drive shaft? The front one is quite dinky. Also I need to figure out my steering. I have heard "Z link". The rear will only need a gear change as its already SOA and pinion angle is good.

I hope I explained what I am doing and have made my questions clear. Thank you for all the help in advance.
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Old June 29th, 2013, 12:32 PM   #2
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Z link is a hack job get a flat top knuckle for the passenger side if the chevy axle doesn't already have one and do cross over or full high steer. You can use cj 30 spindles and chevy half ton calipers and brackets with your scout hubs and rotors to work with the chevy knuckles.
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Old June 29th, 2013, 12:49 PM   #3
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10-4
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Old June 29th, 2013, 03:02 PM   #4
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Front axle is on the trailer and out of the 3/4 ton. Drivers side has flat top, passenger doesn't. Will have to find one. Will most likely go high steer if everything works out. If anyone else has any ideas to help me out let me know. Time for more research.
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Old June 30th, 2013, 09:40 PM   #5
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Screw it! Going full width!
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Old July 14th, 2013, 04:30 PM   #6
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Front axle bolted right it just need to get my pinion angle right and fab up shock mounts. Rear is under the truck. Need to pick up some spring perches as the 3/4 ton springs sat out a bit further. Next ill be building custom drive shafts.
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Old July 14th, 2013, 06:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
Front axle bolted right it just need to get my pinion angle right and fab up shock mounts. Rear is under the truck. Need to pick up some spring perches as the 3/4 ton springs sat out a bit further. Next ill be building custom drive shafts.
I don't know if I am reading wrong but I would be more worried about getting your caster correct with your front axle than your pinion angle unless you are going to grind the welds off the inner c's and rotate them to get it right.
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Old July 14th, 2013, 06:55 PM   #8
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Is caster really going to be an issus for a trail rig?
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Old July 14th, 2013, 07:03 PM   #9
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My plan was to cut and turn but after some research i found more people having drive line issues due to bad pinion angle. How many degrees off is my caster do you think?
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Old July 14th, 2013, 07:16 PM   #10
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You will have to put an angle finder on it and see what it is. I have never done a scout so I couldn't tell you.
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Old July 14th, 2013, 08:06 PM   #11
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I dont have an issue cutting off my inner c's and welding them back on. Im not sure what my angle is supposed to be. Ill do some more looking. Thanks for the advice.
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Old July 14th, 2013, 09:42 PM   #12
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5-7 degrees toward the rear. Caster comes before pinion angle when dealing on a front axle. So if pinion is bad then a cut and turn is needed. You will also need to use shims (not the best) or mill/grind the spring perch on passenger side and relocate the driver side
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Old July 15th, 2013, 08:32 AM   #13
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Thank you for the knowledge. Ill get to work on it.
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Old July 16th, 2013, 09:29 PM   #14
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Brain fart***

Last edited by Carbon; July 16th, 2013 at 09:34 PM.
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