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Old June 19th, 2013, 02:54 PM   #101
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what if i buy a stroker kit for the 4cyl....as long as i can say it's a stroker it will haul ass right?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 03:15 PM   #102
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Spot on!
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tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 04:45 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Wramblerguy View Post
Ya when you get to a custom crank and sleeving the cylinders it's a little ridiculous

How about a low dollar stroker and a turbo? I could see 300 horse w/o too much trouble and on pump gas
The only think I don't like about a turbo on a trail rig is water hole plus hot ass turbo could equal a lot of wasted money and a ruined day.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 07:18 PM   #104
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My jeep is slow. I admit it.
2fst4u,
Why have you already picked the axle ratio for your axle upgrade when you haven't even picked the driveline or tires yet? Isn't that putting the cart before the horse?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 07:22 PM   #105
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My jeep is slow. I admit it.
2fst4u,
Why have you already picked the axle ratio for your axle upgrade when you haven't even picked the driveline or tires yet? Isn't that putting the cart before the horse?
I would figure and axle upgrade would come before the motor. Big motor with big tires on a Dana 30/44 I would guess = broktid. And last time I checked, broktid did win no races.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 07:58 PM   #106
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I disagree. A stock 4.0 needs 5.13's or 5.38's whereas a 6.0 can do well with 4.88's. But it doesn't end there, what t-case ratio will he be ultimately running?

Personally I would pick engine, trans, t-case & probable tire size before I would finalize on axle ratio. Axle ratio is the easiest variable after the fact. (This is all based on someone who can make a decision & follow through with it)
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Old June 19th, 2013, 08:14 PM   #107
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I plan on running my current np231 and nv3550 with a d60 front and 14b rear. I plan to run 37s until I get bored then in the end go to 40s
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Old June 19th, 2013, 08:17 PM   #108
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I plan on running my current np231 and nv3550 with a d60 front and 14b rear. I plan to run 37s until I get bored then in the end go to 40s
You make me happy that my d44's are good enough for me. I could just go for a re-gear though.
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:07 AM   #109
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For those of you suggesting a stroker do you suggest a kit or building a custom one? I want the most HP I can get reliably
http://www.golenengineservice.com/do...0Jeep%20LB.pdf

my nephew bought one of these motors a couple years ago, put it in his 87 YJ, has yet to complete the wiring to make it work, so the motor has not even run yet, I think he'll sell the motor for about $2500 if you're interested let me know.
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:14 AM   #110
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You guys are so cool. Why not meet at west mich sand drags on july 5th so you can show me how fast you are?
What kind of times are you getting out of your Jeep?
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:19 AM   #111
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Buy a house
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:20 AM   #112
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I disagree. A stock 4.0 needs 5.13's or 5.38's whereas a 6.0 can do well with 4.88's. But it doesn't end there, what t-case ratio will he be ultimately running?

Personally I would pick engine, trans, t-case & probable tire size before I would finalize on axle ratio. Axle ratio is the easiest variable after the fact. (This is all based on someone who can make a decision & follow through with it)
Well put !!!!!
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:21 AM   #113
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I plan on running my current np231 and nv3550 with a d60 front and 14b rear. I plan to run 37s until I get bored then in the end go to 40s



231`S hate ls MOTORS

promise The first wheel hop and they snap LOUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:22 AM   #114
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231`S hate ls MOTORS

promise The first wheel hop and they snap LOUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can't tell him anything. He'll learn that the hard way
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:23 AM   #115
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I wouldn't put money into dana 60`s
If you sleeve and truss your dana 30 it will be as strong or stronger than a dana60 With a lot less weight






































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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:30 AM   #116
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5.3 with a 3550 behind it should be a good time..........
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:34 AM   #117
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5.3 with a 3550 behind it should be a good time..........
My 5.3 went through 3 ax-15 I bought a NEW 3550 and nock on wood its holding up good

BUT I just drive mine to work and back
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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:53 AM   #118
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I guess I don't see the point in retaining a 3550/231 when you can use the donor 4l60e/241 for less than the adapters cost. Erin summed it up for me, if you want to keep a stick, 4500/205 and call it a day
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Old June 20th, 2013, 08:15 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by dreezy View Post
You make me happy that my d44's are good enough for me. I could just go for a re-gear though.
I would regear but don't plan on being on 35s much longer and my d30 can't support anything bigger

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Buy a house
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231`S hate ls MOTORS

promise The first wheel hop and they snap LOUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will have to look into something different thanks

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You can't tell him anything. He'll learn that the hard way
Act like you know so much I taught you all you know boy

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My 5.3 went through 3 ax-15 I bought a NEW 3550 and nock on wood its holding up good

BUT I just drive mine to work and back
What tcase you running and what did your 5.3 swap run?

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I guess I don't see the point in retaining a 3550/231 when you can use the donor 4l60e/241 for less than the adapters cost. Erin summed it up for me, if you want to keep a stick, 4500/205 and call it a day
Ya I just don't want an auto. That's an idea I'll look into other options than what I currently have thanks
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Old June 20th, 2013, 10:26 AM   #120
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What's your expert reasoning for not wanting an auto? With the exception of a couple 1%ers, most people prefer an auto.
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