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Old June 17th, 2013, 10:02 PM   #1
2fst4you
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Default 4.7 stroker or 5.3

My 4.0 is tired and blowing blue smoke and burning oil so its time for some more power!!

Looking at doing a 4.7 stroker or 5.3 while keeping my np231 and nv3550

What's the simplest route to take and how much will both generally cost?
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Old June 17th, 2013, 10:53 PM   #2
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Long rod Stroker will cost $2-3000 to do right with good parts. You can spend more and buy anything you want. It will be very easy and almost anyone can do it.

LS motor will be $3000-$100,000,000 depending on you choice of parts and skill level. It will be more rewarding if big hp is what you want. It will lead to replacing the rest of the drivetrain sooner then a stroker imo.
A LS swap is 98% more work then a stroker if you rebuilt both motors.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 11:01 PM   #3
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Its that easy to rebuild the motor? If I do an LS swap it will just be a stock 5.3 until I have more cash or feel the need to upgrade it
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Old June 17th, 2013, 11:28 PM   #4
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go for the stroker. I have a poor mans stroker in my WJ and it hauls. I can only imagine what how much better a long rod stroker would be.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 12:01 AM   #5
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How hard was it to install and what did it run you? Any idea what kind of HP and TQ your making?
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Old June 18th, 2013, 07:05 AM   #6
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The adapters to run your stock tranny will cost almost as much as the stroker parts, plus you're gonna need a new flywheel since the 5.3 you'd get would most likely come from an auto. Not to mention motor mounts, radiator, wiring harness, guages, tranny crossmember, driveshafts (because your tranny/tcase position will change), ect.

Last edited by Tab; June 18th, 2013 at 07:25 AM.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 07:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fst4you View Post
Its that easy to rebuild the motor? If I do an LS swap it will just be a stock 5.3 until I have more cash or feel the need to upgrade it
If you're asking that question, both options are going to be way more expensive than swapping in another 4.0 and focusing on upgrading your axles/gears/tires ect. A cool engine will break parts and you whine way too much as it is about replacing broken parts. Do you think your 150lb maxxis tires are going to break your D30 less with more power than you have now?

Honestly, a 4.0/NV3550/231 with a good gear in the axle will have plenty of oomph, more than you'd think. I can count on one hand the times that power was the only reason I couldn't make an obstacle and I have a worse ratio than you with my AX-15 and D300. 4.0/AX-15/D300/5.38 has no issues rolling smoke on 40" LTB's.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 07:51 AM   #8
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If you're asking that question, both options are going to be way more expensive than swapping in another 4.0 and focusing on upgrading your axles/gears/tires ect. A cool engine will break parts and you whine way too much as it is about replacing broken parts. Do you think your 150lb maxxis tires are going to break your D30 less with more power than you have now?

Honestly, a 4.0/NV3550/231 with a good gear in the axle will have plenty of oomph, more than you'd think. I can count on one hand the times that power was the only reason I couldn't make an obstacle and I have a worse ratio than you with my AX-15 and D300. 4.0/AX-15/D300/5.38 has no issues rolling smoke on 40" LTB's.
Well said. I've stuck with my 4.0 simply because it works great for what I do. I can even go most anywhere at the dunes in two wheel drive, it's certainly no sand dragger, but it works.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 08:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
If you're asking that question, both options are going to be way more expensive than swapping in another 4.0 and focusing on upgrading your axles/gears/tires ect. A cool engine will break parts and you whine way too much as it is about replacing broken parts. Do you think your 150lb maxxis tires are going to break your D30 less with more power than you have now?

Honestly, a 4.0/NV3550/231 with a good gear in the axle will have plenty of oomph, more than you'd think. I can count on one hand the times that power was the only reason I couldn't make an obstacle and I have a worse ratio than you with my AX-15 and D300. 4.0/AX-15/D300/5.38 has no issues rolling smoke on 40" LTB's.
stop bursting bubbles
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Old June 18th, 2013, 08:20 AM   #10
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stop bursting bubbles
Sarry



A 5.3 won't be enough, you will need a LSX454 with NOS and a turbo. I would put a locker in that D35 to distribute the power to both wheels in the back though.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 08:29 AM   #11
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I typed out a long reply but my shitty internet connection here on the Outer Banks lost it.

So, simply said, stay with a stock 4.0, otherwise you will always be complaining about money.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 08:44 AM   #12
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Cam,

My buddy Kyle is going to SL with us this weekend, he would be able to help you do a stroker for pretty cheap labor wise.

I think your D44 will hold the extra power.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 09:01 AM   #13
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There have been many times my hp has made a difference. Mostly on long climbs or mud. However, with a well setup rig & winch along with a good driver, we all go the same places. People like Eric Ross, tab, dale Stroebel & Andrew koz have wheeled all over the country with stock 4.0's with no issues.

You are constantly worried about money. More hp will break more stuff. Do you really have the extra money to spend?
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Old June 18th, 2013, 09:34 AM   #14
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Rebuild a junkyard 4.0. Add a cam, do some head work, 99+ intake manifold and that should be good.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 09:38 AM   #15
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I realize more power will break more parts just figure while replacing my engine I should upgrade like I try to do every time something breaks. I'm also starting a new job Thursday and will be making twice as much money as I currently do so one ton axles are going to be in the works soon. Can I get a reliable 300 HP out of a stroker? Of so sounds like that's the path I'll likely take

Also like you guys have said my 4.0 makes plenty of power for general wheeling even with 3.73s and 35s but id like it to be faster and have power for climbing like at the dunes for example
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Old June 18th, 2013, 09:47 AM   #16
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My front axle was over $3k and I have stock knuckles still, food for thought.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:43 AM   #17
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I realize its expensive to build a front 60 but I figure a stock one can handle 37-40s just fine for me
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
If you're asking that question, both options are going to be way more expensive than swapping in another 4.0 and focusing on upgrading your axles/gears/tires ect. A cool engine will break parts and you whine way too much as it is about replacing broken parts. Do you think your 150lb maxxis tires are going to break your D30 less with more power than you have now?

Honestly, a 4.0/NV3550/231 with a good gear in the axle will have plenty of oomph, more than you'd think. I can count on one hand the times that power was the only reason I couldn't make an obstacle and I have a worse ratio than you with my AX-15 and D300. 4.0/AX-15/D300/5.38 has no issues rolling smoke on 40" LTB's.
A 2000 rpm launch in first will roll smoke in my rig.


I can reseal 20' of asphalt with my clapped out 4.0/ax15/231j and 4.11s
The only time I have ever felt I was limited on power was the weekend I tried to run 33x14.50 paddles at silver lake.

I can stomp the average ricer 0-55 rods knocking all the way to 55!

Rebuild a 4.0 w/ 4.2 crank and regear to a suitable ratio/enjoy.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:50 AM   #19
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You can build 300hp with a stroker but It will require a lot of head work, and exspensive parts like a stand alone engine managment system.
You can build 250-275 hp fairly easy. My last stroker was very simple and didnt need a lot of fancy parts. The biggest exspence was the forged pistons to use the 4.0 rods.
This combo ran very well on 87 octane. The power fell off at 4500 rpm because of the small cam but in reallity you dont need to rev that high very often.

Keith black 944 pistons
hastings rings
4.0 rods reconditioned with arp bolts
258 crank kit
Engine pro double roller timing chain
Melling oil pump- NOT HI VOLUME
505 performence stage 1 hydrulic cam
lifters of your choice, I like crower
stock valve springs
stock 630 head freshened up
Dodge neon injectors part # ending 703 work pretty well
Ford taurus injectors part # ending in 715 flow more and work better
wide band 02 sensor with A/F gauge

I really liked this combo in my tj. Ran on cheap pump gas, no headwork needed for bigger valve springs. No decking of the block is needed. If you do deck the block it will raise compression helping performence and probly require new pushrods and premium fuel.

A lot of people run into problems with strokers eating camshafts. Keep it close to stock lifts and spring pressure and you will be fine. Start cutting the head for chevy valves and big springs and you can find the weak spot in a 80 yr old tractor motor desighn.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I realize its expensive to build a front 60 but I figure a stock one can handle 37-40s just fine for me
Axle+gears+locker+setup kit+bearings+brakes+rotors+studs+lockouts/flanges+u-joints+balljoints/kingpins=expensive if you actually replace parts prior to use. That's a stocker
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