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Old May 26th, 2009, 01:20 AM   #1
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Default Michelangelo 2nd gen Explorer SAS

starting truck: 1995 ford explorer sport 4.0
plans change. its now:
dana 60 rear 4:10's semi float, dodge 1500 front disk brakes making it a 5x5.5 pattern, with gm calipers in the rear, ill lock it later..im lazy lol
dana 44 front, with new everything, 4:10's and spicer u joints among other things
beefy links
internal fuel cell
custom radius arm setup
and the springs flipped in the rear

stage 2:
cage
winch
lockers
4:88 gears
beadlocks
new seats
Chromo's
4 link rear

stage 3 pending fiance's approval
Dana 60 front
5.13's
new f150 lift springs in front
351w stroked to 427 with holley proJection (she likes this idea :D )
Carbon fiber dash with higher center for trans. clearance/shifter
atlas case or 1354 w/ doubler
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Old May 26th, 2009, 07:50 PM   #2
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dont do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 26th, 2009, 08:01 PM   #3
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Lets see it done. not like your bronco.
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Old May 26th, 2009, 10:47 PM   #4
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dont do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i picked up the heads for the engine, they are soaking in parts cleaner over night..ill post pics of them all cleaned up..im going to have them freshened up over at AAA performance



jeff, i blame you and your wicked awesome buggy for this build.
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Old May 27th, 2009, 05:18 PM   #5
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heads are cleaned up, prepping for paint/ceramic treatment

i weighed the base truck with 15 gallons of fuel and 2 passengers it weighed 4780 lbs
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Old May 27th, 2009, 06:25 PM   #6
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one of these

some of those
a set of that

some of those...
christmas is going to be awesome!
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Old May 27th, 2009, 10:05 PM   #7
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grab your ankles and pull out your wallet! Thanks for riding and wrenching with me this weekend!
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Old May 27th, 2009, 10:40 PM   #8
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no problem! if you ever need a co driver just give me a holler
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Old May 28th, 2009, 12:23 AM   #9
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im having issues with the length of the new engine, i was thinking instead of running a radiator in front of the engine, i can do it on top, like the prerunner design..opinions?
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Old May 28th, 2009, 12:42 AM   #10
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Heres those other links...

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthr...hlight=unilink

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...all+joint+link

Better pic of that joint, also you can see its size a little better.

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Old May 31st, 2009, 12:17 AM   #11
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anyone ever run a painless wiring kit? do i really need all these bullshit sensors and doodads hooked up? like my EGR..
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Old May 31st, 2009, 12:24 AM   #12
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part it out already!!!!!!!!geez
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Old May 31st, 2009, 01:55 AM   #13
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whats the grader ball thing for? please tell me you arent putting a "one link" under it?

you need all of those seemingly useless sensors and connections except the EGR if you can program out the emission related codes.
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Old May 31st, 2009, 01:59 AM   #14
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probably leaning the way of a unilink setup now, as its cheaper and still can flex

ugh....

dont do it.... really... run leafs or a proper 3 or 4 link. a unilink has horrible numbers and will be very unstable.
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Old May 31st, 2009, 06:20 PM   #15
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part it out already!!!!!!!!geez
what do you need off it?

and i dont see any reason for a unilink to be unstable if its got 2 vertical (air shocks) and one lateral support (trackbar) on it?




also: instead of efi, i may run a carb for a while, and then switch over when more money allows me to do it.. any of you ever run a carb on a buggy?
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Old May 31st, 2009, 08:47 PM   #16
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Trog, grow a brain. Read what Bryce is saying. I think he might know what is going on. Just a thought.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 12:20 PM   #17
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well then if you want to do all the math be my guest!
im still planning it out, everything but the suspension is set in stone so theres room for adjustment...
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Old June 1st, 2009, 12:26 PM   #18
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8" of axle seperation, 4-6" of frame seperation in the rear, 3-5" in the front, a total horizontal seperation of at least 30" combined from parallel links, make the lowers as flat as you can get them at ride height, full stuff they should be down hill for the best performance. link lengths between 32 and 40" C-C is the best balance for performance and packaging.

it's pretty straight forward, buy the brackets from poly performance and ask questions when you are unsure of something. read lots and look at as many examples as you can.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 12:53 PM   #19
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Just copy someone elses suspension, with a 4-link that is.

Looking forward to seeing pictures.

Lastly, run the radiator in the rear.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 01:59 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
8" of axle seperation, 4-6" of frame seperation in the rear, 3-5" in the front, a total horizontal seperation of at least 30" combined from parallel links, make the lowers as flat as you can get them at ride height, full stuff they should be down hill for the best performance. link lengths between 32 and 40" C-C is the best balance for performance and packaging.

it's pretty straight forward, buy the brackets from poly performance and ask questions when you are unsure of something. read lots and look at as many examples as you can.
thanks!

i may just run a smaller radiator than previously planned and run it like a regular radiator

the deal is: im leaving in july until december..im drawing everything out on paper, measuring, and taking notes before i get started to make the rest of the build as easy as possible.
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