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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:35 PM   #1
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Default Heat resistant fuel lines?

Any one know of or where to find some heat proof. Fuel lines?
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:37 PM   #2
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How hot are you planning on getting them?
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:37 PM   #3
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At the heat proof fuel line store.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:40 PM   #4
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Maybe this would work? http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...eve-sewn/60/23
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:49 PM   #5
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I'm having problems with vaiper locking I think lol ill run for a bit and shut it off then it don't wanna re start
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 07:28 PM   #6
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Rerun lines away from heat?
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 08:00 PM   #7
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just wrap them or rerun them
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 08:05 PM   #8
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What vehicle?
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 08:07 PM   #9
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97 tj with 5.0
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 11:35 PM   #10
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Build heat shields with AL. Wraps will just heat soak. heat shields stabilize at lower temps that wraps.

This is a return fuel system right?
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Old May 24th, 2013, 03:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
Build heat shields with AL. Wraps will just heat soak. heat shields stabilize at lower temps that wraps.

This is a return fuel system right?
Yes bill
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Old May 24th, 2013, 07:41 AM   #12
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Yep, route them away from heat, use aluminum for heat shields with a air gap between the line and het source.

If needed, plumb a cooler in the return line.

Also, what are you doing for your fuel pump? Some of them pump so much fuel they just sit and circulate the whole tank in minutes and heat it up, especially on a low tank. Lot of hot rod guys are moving to pwm pump controllers due to this...


What type of fuel pump arrangement do you have? Internal or external?
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Old May 24th, 2013, 07:50 AM   #13
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External
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Old May 24th, 2013, 08:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbchevy View Post
with 5.0
wait.. there's the issue.

j/k. I agree with Bones. Is there a specific place it gets close, or pretty much the entire run? hard line or soft line?
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Old May 24th, 2013, 09:35 AM   #15
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External pump is possibly the source of your issue. I have known more than 1 person who gets issues with it trying to draw. Get it as close as possible to your tank, or else set up an in-tank pump, and see if that fixes it.

What rail pressure are your trying to accomplish? I forget what the correct 5.0 pressure is...


How about more info when its happening? Does the amount of fuel in the tank seem to matter? The heat of the day? How long its running before it fails?
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Old May 24th, 2013, 09:38 AM   #16
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One friend had an external pump on his 258, with howell EFI. Howell tells you to put the pump up around the transmission bellhousing area on the frame rail. Ran fine....until he went out to Colorado. Difference in air pressure and fuel type made it vaopr lock/cavitate. Moved the pump back to right next to the tank, problem fixed.

The longer those things have to draw, especially through smaller/restricted lines between the pickup and the pump, the more they will cavitate.

Do you have any filter between the tank and pump? Also can be source of issue.

Best setup is an intank pump, with prefilter/sock, then pump, then filter, then regulator.
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Old May 24th, 2013, 10:12 AM   #17
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1-the amount of fuel dont seem to matter.
2- it seems to happen after im up to temp for a hour or so.
3-the fuel pump is right next to the tank same level as the tank.
4-i dont think it has ever done it in the winter only hot summer days.
5-i will check on the psi but i know i had set it to the normal 5.0 psi.
6-im thinking its getting a lot of heat up by the front of the motor where the line meets the stock line
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Old May 24th, 2013, 10:21 AM   #18
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You missed my question about what kind of fuel line?
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Old May 24th, 2013, 10:28 AM   #19
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Aluminum
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Old May 24th, 2013, 10:53 AM   #20
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Sounds silly but is tank cap vented? try running with cap loose, I have had this happen on a few daily drivers, turns out cap was plugged.
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