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Old January 14th, 2013, 04:02 AM   #1
yj-woody
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Default 04 powerstroke

Have a 04 powerstoke with 125k on it. Runs down the road great. Cold air intake on it. Muffler delete and cat delete.. I hooked up to a trailer with my jeep on it and found out I have no the best of power towing.. This truck did not come with a boost gauge.. So I added one.. If I get on it with out a trailer I get over 20 psi of boost. Driving 70 down the road I am at 7-8 psi.. If I put my trailer on it. Get on the highway it will go to about 40psi.. Egr is clean I pulled it.. Cleaned and put it back in.. I should have a ton of power and boost shouldn't be that high.. I don't want to blow something... And ideas what can be wrong here?? Info on this would be very nice.. I did check all the boots.. Replace the one at the turbo. But still the same.. ??????? Plus i have seen that my mpg have gone way down too..

Last edited by yj-woody; January 14th, 2013 at 05:25 AM.
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Old January 14th, 2013, 05:18 AM   #2
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Probably nothing wrong
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Old January 14th, 2013, 05:20 AM   #3
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That's how it should be??
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Old January 14th, 2013, 06:00 AM   #4
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Have you replaced the fuel filters? (Including the one in the fuel pump modual on the frame).
Have you checked it for Diagnostic Trouble Codes?
Have you checked fuel pressure from the low pressure pump?
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Old January 14th, 2013, 06:02 AM   #5
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40 is to high. X2 on the codes.
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Old January 14th, 2013, 06:20 AM   #6
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No codes to be found.. Changed the filters too..
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Old January 14th, 2013, 06:35 AM   #7
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Sounds like a blockage to me but I know almost nothing about diesels.

More info here to read http://www.littlepowershop.com/60problems.html


The next thing you may have read or heard about is the egr cooler and/or valve. This system is just a nightmare on these trucks. For emission purposes the engineers designed a system to reintroduce exhaust gases into the intake manifold to be reburnt. Exhaust Gas Recirculation. While I suppose it must have met whatever standard for emissions that they had to meet, it is a nightmare for any one who owns these trucks. At the very least sooner or later your egr valve will either become completely clogged up with soot and quit working or just plain fail. Which leads to terrible running that commonly gets misdiagnosed as bad injectors, faulty FICMs, bad turbos, or a host of other shade tree guesses. How the egr system works is as follows. The hot exhaust gas is let into the egr cooler from a pipe between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. This exhaust has a temperature anywhere between 400-1400 degrees. In order to cool the gas before introducing it into the intake, they have coolant running through the egr cooler to exchange the heat. On the other end of the egr cooler is the egr valve. This valve opens to let exhaust gas into the intake manifold when the pcm decides conditions are proper to do so. The major problems with this system are two fold. First, dirty sooty exhaust gas is being blasted into your intake tract. The soot covers everything in it’s path. It is not unusual for us to tear down a motor that has had it’s egr system intact it’s whole life and find the intake ports into the head to be coked up to half their diameter. The intake manifold becomes restricted from this coking as well. But that is not the worst problem. The extreme heat acts on the cooler and breaks it down. Sooner or later it will rupture either letting coolant into the exhaust or intake. (lot’s of misdiagnosed head gaskets here since fluid can run into the cylinder once you shut the engine off and hyrdolock it up) Really bad leaks let exhaust pressure into the coolant system. Which if not taken care of quickly can and will result in blown head gaskets. But wait there’s more. The extreme heat that the coolant is trying to scrub away in a normal functioning egr system breaks down the coolant. Some of the components of the coolant start turning into a goo like substance that does a really nice job of clogging up all sorts of coolant related parts. If you have been doing any research about these engines you have no doubt heard about replacing the oil cooler. These need replaced because this goo will clog them up. Oil temps will then be elevated causing quick overheating when the engine is worked. Also, the coolant leaves the oil cooler and continues to the egr cooler next. If the oil cooler is restricted, your egr cooler will not get enough coolant flow to keep it cool. Next thing you know, blown egr cooler. Then of course a shop diagnoses the bad egr cooler, replaces it, and the customer comes back in a month with another blown egr cooler. It is not unusual for us to get trucks that have had six or seven egr coolers replaced in their lifetime and never an oil cooler. This is the kind of stuff that gives these engines a bad name and it stems from the people working on them misdiagnosing them and not doing complete repairs. My advice to you would be to delete the egr cooler out as soon as possible and replace the oil cooler if you have more than 50,000 miles on the truck when you do it. At the very least, if you have to have the egr system functioning, replace the cooler with a bullet proof one that has a very robust center section that will not rupture. Adding a coolant filter to every engine is also a great way to combat coolant contamination and is a must.



And lastly, no 6.0 problem article would be complete without touching on turbos. I cannot stress enough how often the turbo gets blamed for poor performance when there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. Here are just a few misdiagnosed bad turbos from the last week. One guy heard a pop and lost all boost pressure. No smoke, no oil leaking anywhere, but lost all his power. “The turbo isn’t working. My mechanic says I need a new turbo.” After talking with the guy for a few minutes I found out an intercooler boot had come off. I advised him to fix it first and he was on his way. The second one was a customer who had the turbo replaced not once but twice and now the second one was bad after two weeks. Come to find out his exhaust backpressure tube was completely plugged. Since the pcm uses exhaust backpressure to command the turbo to open and close down the exhaust side and wasn’t getting good feedback, the turbo performance was erratic. No turbo needed there either. We had a guy with a blown intercooler that had been misdiagnosed. There was another with a sticking egr valve that was calling for a new turbo. All those people were going to buy or did buy a turbo when they absolutely did not need one. Turbos are another item on 6.0 Powerstrokes that I hear, “Those engines are junk. I had to put six turbos on it since I have owned it.” No you didn’t. You paid your mechanic to put six turbos on it and the sixth time he actually noticed what else was wrong in the first place.

Here is how to see if you turbo is bad: Take the inlet from the air cleaner off the turbo. You will be able to see the compressor wheel. Grab the end of the shaft with your fingers. Does it spin freely without coming to a sudden abrupt stop? If it spins good, it’s good. When you have a hold of the shaft, try and move it side to side and then in and out. Some minor play is acceptable. It’s hard to describe exactly how much play is ok to someone who hasn’t worked with many turbos. The best I can do is this: If it feels like it is moving back and forth against a uniform bearing, it is probably ok. If you are picking the shaft up from the bottom and it falls back down when you let go, the bearings are probably out of it or worse. The other test for the turbo needs to be done with a scan tool. With a scan tool you actuate the valve that moves the variable veins in the exhaust side of the turbo. You should hear the exhaust tone change and see a fluctuation in back pressure. If nothing happens, either the actuator is bad or it is possible the variable veins in the exhaust side of the turbo are coked up and need cleaning. This can be done by removing the turbo. Disassemble the exhaust housing and clean the rust and soot out of there.

If you are having a problem that is diagnosed as a bad turbo check the shaft play and turbo actuation first. If both of those are ok, you do not need a turbo. Only good diagnostics will find the real problem. A turbo isn’t a mystical device. It is much more like a wind mill. If it is not spinning and not broke, there may be no wind. If it is spinning but not producing any power, it may not be connected on the output side.

Last edited by firehawk; January 14th, 2013 at 06:42 AM.
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Old January 14th, 2013, 07:47 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info everyone.. Thanks for the info Firehawk too.. That helps alot..
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Old January 14th, 2013, 07:59 PM   #9
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Not going to mess with cleaning the turbo.Don't want it to do it again. So I just ordered a new one from rebel diesel performance. 88mm drop in replacement. And it adds more hp to a stock truck. So now I wait for it to come in..
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Old January 14th, 2013, 08:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yj-woody View Post
Not going to mess with cleaning the turbo.Don't want it to do it again. So I just ordered a new one from rebel diesel performance. 88mm drop in replacement. And it adds more hp to a stock truck. So now I wait for it to come in..
If there's a leak or a blockage then a new turbo might not help.
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Old January 14th, 2013, 09:15 PM   #11
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There's no leak anywhere.. This truck sat at a dealer for 4.5 months I am sure that the turbo is rusted up inside of it now. Inner cooler boots and turbo boots are new.. I will take the turbo off new one on. Have the old one rebuilt.. Good spare for someone.. Or me..
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Old January 14th, 2013, 09:38 PM   #12
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Yes you're on the right track with the turbo. Probably has a p0299 boost performance code
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Old January 15th, 2013, 08:15 AM   #13
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Just a question.

How do you get high PSI and no power without a blockage?
Is the turbo just not putting out the proper volume ?
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Old January 15th, 2013, 08:39 AM   #14
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VGT Actuator sounds like it is not operating properly. Unison ring failure?? Maybe it's just rust.....



I know you better fix this soon because those head bolts are stretchin'










Great article on how to clean up that turbo for cheap: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-05.php


Did that on a work truck, fixed the issue.
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Old January 15th, 2013, 09:21 AM   #15
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I guess I should have read what you posted after your original. Want to sell me your old turbo?
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Old January 15th, 2013, 09:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I guess I should have read what you posted after your original. Want to sell me your old turbo?
He already promised it to me. Sorry.
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Old January 16th, 2013, 04:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk View Post
Just a question.

How do you get high PSI and no power without a blockage?
Is the turbo just not putting out the proper volume ?
The truck sat for a long time at the dealer and the turbo is stuck.. I just dont want to mess with it so new turbo is on its way..
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Old January 16th, 2013, 05:46 PM   #18
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the best way to check the vgt on 6.0 turbo is to just unplug the solenoid with the truck running you should hear the turbo spool down also there is a tube running from the drivers side exhaust manifold up to a pressure sensor those get all gummed up that sensor is an important input to control the vgt some times it wont throw a code. dont spend 1500$ on a gess
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Old January 16th, 2013, 06:30 PM   #19
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Um, isn't it a known problem on the 6.0, to have a dirty sensor on the turbo? That keeps the computer from putting any more fuel into the motor? Like, a temp sensor, on the exhaust or intake of the turbo? I've had a few friends have a similar problem, and they just carry a spare sensor anymore.
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Old January 16th, 2013, 06:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn View Post
Um, isn't it a known problem on the 6.0, to have a dirty sensor on the turbo? That keeps the computer from putting any more fuel into the motor? Like, a temp sensor, on the exhaust or intake of the turbo? I've had a few friends have a similar problem, and they just carry a spare sensor anymore.
6.0's have no EGT gauge if that's what you are referring too. The truck measures boost and Exhaust Back Pressure. The sensor on the turbo should be the VGT sensor and that should not affect fueling the motor, maybe indirectly due to lack of boost if the veins get stuck.
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