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Old November 30th, 2007, 08:54 PM   #1
camoII
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Default sas on a full size gmc COMPLETED

I'm going to do an sas swap on my 92 gmc light duty 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive. I want to run a divorced case so I can use my exisiting trans. I can't decide what I want to use for an axle.

I'm thinking about using a chevy axle from possibly a blazer(10 bolt?) so I can retain the 6 lug pattern and because I have a 3.73 gear ratio in the 14 bolt and I know I can find a chevy axle with the same ratio. Also, I can get a passenger drop divorced np205 for 100 bux. But the question is this, would the 10 bolt have good enough brakes for a truck that I will be towing with?

Another option I was thinking is I found a matching pair of axles from a 78 f250 for 200 bux. I know the front 44 would have much better brakes than the 10 bolt. Also, I would have all the same bolt pattern if I swapped in front and rear. I want to avoid gear changes as that is very expensive and I want to do this swap as cheap as possible. I have a line on a divorced np205 drivers drop that would go with this setup.

This truck isn't going to be a wheeling truck, just a tow rig and a daily driver. All I really want the 4 wheel drive for is the good old Michigan winters and if I have to pull the bronco in muddy areas and so on.

Again I want to go as cheap as possible but also a good setup.

What do you guys think?
I know I need some I've been thinking way to much!

Last edited by camoII; March 5th, 2008 at 05:02 PM.
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Old December 6th, 2007, 08:38 AM   #2
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Sounds LIke you have a nice plan. The 10 bolt and D44 are very close to the same strengh wise, braking wise Im not sure. Are you making your own spring plates for the frame?
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Old December 10th, 2007, 05:52 PM   #3
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I'm going to fab all the spring mounts. I'm going with a dana HD44 and a dana 60 ff rear with 4.09 gears. Just need to figure out what to set the caster at on the front. I thought I read it has to be at negative 10 degrees but not positive, any help on this would be appreciated!
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Old December 10th, 2007, 05:57 PM   #4
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I don't know the spec, but I'm pretty sure you don't want negative caster. You will want at least 0 to a few degrees positive. (the bottom ball joint is further forward than the top ball joint)
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Old December 10th, 2007, 06:10 PM   #5
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according to my reasearch your preffered caster should be 3.75 degrees positive. the limit is +/- 1 degree. and you want both side to be within .5 degree of each other.
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Old December 10th, 2007, 06:15 PM   #6
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unless he cuts the c off the axle tube caster will pretty much be the same left to right unless the tubes are bent or twisted. The F250 is leaf sprung though, are you staying leafs or going to a coil?
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:06 PM   #7
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guys on pavementsucks have done this quite a few times, honestly it would be cheaper to sell the truck and buy a 4x4....a good 1992 4x4 wouldnt go for much more than 2,000, you will almost spend that much in parts to conver the truck (springs, steering upgrades, x-fer case and axles)
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72_K20 View Post
guys on pavementsucks have done this quite a few times, honestly it would be cheaper to sell the truck and buy a 4x4....a good 1992 4x4 wouldnt go for much more than 2,000, you will almost spend that much in parts to conver the truck (springs, steering upgrades, x-fer case and axles)
Actually it wouldn't be cheaper to sell the truck and buy a 4x4. I am fabbing everything myself, the axles are $200 for the front 44 and rear 60. I'm getting the leaf springs with the front axle for free. The transfer case is $50 from a local yard and I will be fabbing a crossmember for that and making my own drive shafts. So how is that more expensive? Granted I will be installing new ball joints, tie rod ends, whatever brake parts I need and whatever insidentals come up but in no way will that add up to the cost of a different truck.
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak450r View Post
according to my reasearch your preffered caster should be 3.75 degrees positive. the limit is +/- 1 degree. and you want both side to be within .5 degree of each other.
Thanks for the input. I must have remembered wrong about the negative caster. So positive means the lower joint is farther forward? Thanks for the help guys.
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Old December 10th, 2007, 08:36 PM   #10
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think of a bicycle, Bikes have mad positive caster which makes it easier to steer

and a shopping cart that has those annnoying wheels on the back side that are a PITA thats negative
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Old December 27th, 2007, 07:19 PM   #11
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I've made some good progress on this in the last few days.
Here are a few pics:








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Old December 27th, 2007, 07:32 PM   #12
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don't forget to take into account pinion angle. don't wanna have that too off angle or you'll wipe out u-joints. you'll also need to make sure your front driveshaft is a slip shaft type.
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Old December 28th, 2007, 03:47 PM   #13
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Got some more done today. Just have to run some brake lines and lift the back then I can drive it until I have time to get the t-case in.

She is a beast!





Time for some
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Old December 28th, 2007, 03:53 PM   #14
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Oh and amount invested so far in the front axle swap.......$350 give or take a few bux. That includes the price of the axle and new ball joints, u-joints, calipers, brake pads, wheel bearings, seals, brake hoses, and shocks....I think that is all.
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Old December 28th, 2007, 04:02 PM   #15
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good price to get it all done
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08 qcsb Duramax Ltz
02 tj with some parts laying around **for sale**
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Old December 28th, 2007, 04:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72_K20 View Post
guys on pavementsucks have done this quite a few times, honestly it would be cheaper to sell the truck and buy a 4x4....a good 1992 4x4 wouldnt go for much more than 2,000, you will almost spend that much in parts to conver the truck (springs, steering upgrades, x-fer case and axles)
uhhhh a 92 would be IFS, it appears he wants a straight axle, so that owulndt be cheaper.
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Old January 3rd, 2008, 06:46 PM   #17
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Axle is in, now for the t-case!





Much better than this!


Time for some
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Old January 6th, 2008, 05:09 PM   #18
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Looks good man. Can you take some pictures of your spring mounts? what springs did you use? i might do the same to my daily driver, i s.a.s.'d my 90 chevy only i went huge with it
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Old January 8th, 2008, 07:27 PM   #19
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I'll try to get some pics up in a few days. Thanks for the compliments!
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Old January 22nd, 2008, 01:38 PM   #20
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I will be doing this in the summer and woul also like to see your front mounts
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