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Old October 24th, 2009, 11:44 AM   #1
Haggar
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Default Project Untamed: 1969 CJ6 build

OK, guess I'll start a thread for my new build. I have nothing done yet, this is just a starting point.

I had been building a Willys CJ3b, but we made some changes to the family planning, and decided we wanted something that could fit a family of 4. Due to the suspension design on the Willys, a back seat was not possible (rear axle back 16").

So, we wanted something with room for 4 people plus gear. First, it needed to be an open top Jeep. A Wrangler *could* have worked, and I have a very nice condition TJ thats already lifted/modified.....but they are a bit cramped with 4 people, tools, and gear for a day in the woods. And wranglers are boring/everywhere. I didn't want to cut/stretch something because I wanted to have a good fiting soft top. So looked at CJ6s and CJ8s. CJ8s cost a mint, and I'd probably want to bob it, which then gets into soft top issues, and more work. So decided to find a CJ6. A fun road trip out to Chicago to visit Cooter netted this beauty, a 1969 CJ6, called 'Untamed'. It was a mud racer from way-back-when. Pretty much only going to use the body, and not even all of that.

I will be using a 72+ front clip on it, which lengthens the front 3" to fit the V8 in there. This will end up with an overall length of 152" (not including any spare tire out back) and a wheelbase of 104", which is the factory wheelbase for the 72-75 6's...

There is 10" more interior length compared to a CJ7/YJ/TJ. But overall, its only about 6" longer than a TJ.



Last edited by Haggar; October 24th, 2009 at 11:58 AM.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 11:47 AM   #2
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Plans are as follows:

New frame from 2 x 3 x 0.120 steel.
5.3 Vortec L33 motor
700R4 transmission
Dana 300 T-case (current plan is to flip it)
HP Dana 44 - 5.13 gears & aussie locker
Ford 9" - 5.13 gears and mini spool, disc brakes
36x12.5-15 Super Swamper SXs
3 link front, 4 link rear 2 x 14 SAW air shocks
Warn M8274 winch
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Old October 24th, 2009, 11:54 AM   #3
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For the frame, I'm cutting up and lengthening the frame from the willys, which is 2 x 3 x 0.120 A500b box tube. Now, if this was a basic/traditional leaf sprung Jeep with only a basic interior cage, I would have gone bigger with the tube.

The stock frame varies from 2x3 to 2x4 C-channel but its the main structural member, nothing else holds the Jeep straight. In my case, the frame rails are the lower piece of the complete structure. There will a 6 point interior cage with A, B, C pillars going to the frame. There will be shock hoops at the front of the frame, which then tie back into through the firewall to the dash bar. The interior framing for the seats will aos tie back into the frame. And there will rock rails which also tie in. So more like a buggy structure. Should be fine.

Haha, plus, its what I have, and don't feel like going and buying another 40 ft of tube...


As it sits, I removed the bulk of the frame brackets off it, but the control arm brackets will be left on, as I'll re-use the mount locations I had figured out before. The old frame was straight rails, 29.25" on center to work with toyota leaf spring axles. Not I'll change it up a bit. I think I'll go with 32" wide outside for the front, and 40" wide for the rear. This will allow me to squeeze in a TJ fuel tank between the rails.



Reusing the links from the last build as well. They are all 28" long, long enough what I'll do, and I have the geometry worked out.


Last edited by Haggar; October 24th, 2009 at 12:00 PM.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 12:10 PM   #4
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Motor wise, I've got an 5.3 vortec from a 2007 Silverado. Mine is an L33 motor, which is the high-output model (although 2008 Gen IV motors now match its output). It is factory rated at 310 hp / 335 ft-lbs.

The key differences between this and the much more common LM7 iron block motors are: LS6 cylinder heads (mine are the 243 castings), higher compression (about 10:1, using flat top 4.8 pistons), and slightly more lift on the cam. And its an aluminum block, so fully dressed, its under 450 lbs. 100+ lbs lighter than an iron block 350. I plan to leave it stock, although I probably need headers or different manifolds to clear the frame rails, and do something different with the intake. With a reflash, I wouldn't be suprised if it was pushing around 325+ horsepower.

Anyway, I'm lazy, so TNScrambler on pirate was nice enough to ship me this one cheaper thna any L33s I could find around here. Complete, with all the accessories, the drive by wire pedal & tac module, wiring, ecu, even the fuel pump module from the tank. And its just shows up on a pallet, instead of junkyard picking. I paid about $400-$500 premium for the lower miles/aluminum block/higher output, but weight is very important on this build, I'm trying to keep things down as low as possible...




Last edited by Haggar; October 24th, 2009 at 02:21 PM.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 01:49 PM   #5
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Sweet, I will be watching closely. Your kid looks pretty happy about the build also. That is one of my biggest reasons for loving this hobby, kids enjoy it alot also. I can't wait to show my son how to fabricate and wrench etc....
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Old October 24th, 2009, 02:20 PM   #6
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Sweet, I will be watching closely. Your kid looks pretty happy about the build also. That is one of my biggest reasons for loving this hobby, kids enjoy it alot also. I can't wait to show my son how to fabricate and wrench etc....
Yep, Patrick drives the Jeep every chance he gets. He's 4 now. He showed me that a turn signal level makes a nice 3-on-the-tree shift...

And thats exactly what this is for, a family Jeep. I've found that when you are really building from scratch, its too easy to go crazy, think you need everything perfect, everything the best possible, etc. Well, I've driven several short arm TJs and XJs, they were fun. I've driven lots of leaf sprung trucks, they were fun. They all worked well, not perfect, but good. So this will be better than those, and therefore, should work well, too. Its not a comp vehicle, not a buggy, not a bling high dollar piece.

So, its not going to have too big of tires, 36s which I've wheeled canada, tellico, harlan, etc on these tires. It'll be a dana 44 up front. My club is mostly 33-36s right now, and dnaa 30 and 44 fronts, so I'll be matched to who I'm wheeling with...

So, should be a fun build. I expect I will be working all winter and hopefully have it driving in late spring. I've be using my TJ between now and then for wheeling, and then have this ready for Silver lake next summer...
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Old October 24th, 2009, 03:55 PM   #7
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Subscribed Looks like an interesting project. Definitely be following the drive-train side of this build too vs. your average 350 swap.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 04:02 PM   #8
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not absolutely sure, but I may be able to come up with some "gear" to tune that motor then reflash your ECU when you get it together.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 06:14 PM   #9
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not absolutely sure, but I may be able to come up with some "gear" to tune that motor then reflash your ECU when you get it together.
Hehehe, long ways off. I need to look through the wiring diagrams to see if I want to even try tackling the harness or have someone do it.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 06:19 PM   #10
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Hehehe, long ways off. I need to look through the wiring diagrams to see if I want to even try tackling the harness or have someone do it.
You may know already ...

Jims Performance was te best pricing and customer service I had found
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Old October 24th, 2009, 06:45 PM   #11
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x2 ive heard nothing but good things about jims performance for the harness and computer flashing
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Old October 24th, 2009, 06:47 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jmdzuk View Post
You may know already ...

Jims Performance was te best pricing and customer service I had found
I've seen cheaper places, actually, but heard nothing but good from them. Everyone I've talked to has been very happy with Jim's...

Last edited by Haggar; October 24th, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
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Old October 24th, 2009, 07:37 PM   #13
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I've seen cheaper places, actually, btu heard nothing but good from them.
I should have said a fair price with great service.I found cheaper but was not impressed with the service and the length of time to get answer.

Jim answers his phone, or at least whenever I have called.

Oh and nice build I will be watching
-Jeff
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Old October 24th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #14
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Old October 24th, 2009, 08:48 PM   #15
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I've been waiting for this one, looks like a great start
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Old October 24th, 2009, 08:50 PM   #16
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inb4partout
hahaha...no.

for the record, I didn't sell much from the CJ3b, I still have it, its in my barn.

I would have built it, as I said, if not for change in planned family size. But we've been doing a lot more family wheeling this year, and the CJ3b wasn't going to cut it. I would rather have 1 good all around wheeler than maintai a 2 seater and a 4 seater for family use.
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Old October 25th, 2009, 08:54 AM   #17
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you dont see many cj-6s around, nice start to your project. the body looks pretty clean from the phots, cant wait to see more progress.
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Old October 25th, 2009, 09:29 AM   #18
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If you're going to bastardize the body anyway (long-noise clip on an early CJ...sacrilege....sheesh) why don't you do your backside a favor and chop out the door openings to fit CJ-7/YJ/TJ soft doors?
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Old October 25th, 2009, 12:23 PM   #19
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If you're going to bastardize the body anyway (long-noise clip on an early CJ...sacrilege....sheesh) why don't you do your backside a favor and chop out the door openings to fit CJ-7/YJ/TJ soft doors?
Because it'd not work, thats why.

The 1969 tub is the same as the 72-75 intermediate tubs, as is the windshield.

The 1972-75 intermediates had the long front clip. The grill on it already is an intermediate.

So it'll look like a correct intermediate 72-75 model.

Now, if I was to put CJ7 door opening on it, it'd look wierd, because it'd be a bastardized look. But, more importantly, the doors and soft top would have to be custom, or I'd need major tub surgery.

First, obviously, you'd have to cut door frames out of something else, and weld them into this. But, the big issue is the windshield. The CJ7s have a 76+ style windshield that have a 55" width, more rake, different hinges, even the tub top is different where/how the hinges bolt on. The 69 windshield is the same as the 72-75 windshield, 59" wide, more vertical, different hinges, etc.

So CJ7 doors won't fit the CJ6 windshield and a CJ6 tub won't easily take a CJ7 windshield.

If you successfully grafted both the doors and the windshield, then you'd have to find a 76+ soft top, which isn't available anymore from what Iv'e seen since 75 was the last year for domestic CJ6s. A few rare tops exist (I know someone with one), but I want something new and that I can get replacement parts for if needed.


I wheeled an intermediate CJ5 for years, I have no problem with the doors. But thanks for hating on my project. I'm sorry my body choice doesn't make you happy. What was I thinking...
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Old October 25th, 2009, 12:35 PM   #20
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wow, a little testy are we.

anyway cool looking project, I've always like the cj-6 over a cj-8 because of less rear overhang....or whatever u want to call it.
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