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Old April 3rd, 2013, 10:48 AM   #1
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Default 419 unimog axles???

I am looking for a strong axle that is 70" wide, that I can install a air locker in with a 6-7/1 ratio and will put the pinion 6-9" over center line

At first I was considering building a mog9 with 406 outers. But, the more I look at the 419 the more it seems freaking perfect in stock form.


For what they are 419's are Light weight, that have a 6.5 ratio, 72" wide, good pinion height, factory air locker, 2.07 outer, and rated at 4200 lbs and 50 degrees of steering.

The 5.7 diesel in the 419 comes with puts out more torque and the transmission/transfer case ratios put out a higher low ratio meaning the pinion will receive less torque then in a factory application.

For cooling I was thinking installing about installing a temp sender on the side of each hub that would kick on a pump and pull fluid from the hub up to a single core radiator mounted flush to the hub on the axle tube with a small fan to push the heat out. I would also install a second temp sender to monitor the hub's temperature while driving to avoid issue if a pump fails.

These seem freaking perfect and I have already found a couple. But, before I jump in tossing a couple of grand on these I would like to get some feedback.

Downsides??
Rotation?
Top speed?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 10:56 AM   #2
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Wow
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tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:28 AM   #3
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They also come with disc breaks at all four corners.

Last edited by cerial; April 3rd, 2013 at 11:29 AM. Reason: disc not disk
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:43 AM   #4
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I would definitely do a little more research on your cooling set up. Most unimog axles have hot hubs after long road trips and fail catostrophically with out warning.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 12:01 PM   #5
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WTF is wrong with you?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 12:49 PM   #6
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WTF is wrong with you?
That one actually made me
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 12:57 PM   #7
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Which project is this for?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 01:06 PM   #8
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WTF is wrong with you?






Quote:
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That one actually made me
Seriously... Can one guy overthink something a little more... I hate to see what goes through his head before taking the morning post coffee constitutional...
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 01:13 PM   #9
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Seriously... Can one guy overthink something a little more... I hate to see what goes through his head before taking the morning post coffee constitutional...
He just shits himself. He has no time to be bothered by trivial things like bathroom breaks...
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 01:56 PM   #10
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Which project is this for?
For my rear engine buggy thing. I will need to offset the engine for it to work.

This guy seems to be having good luck with them.

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Old April 3rd, 2013, 02:11 PM   #11
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You've already started building that. Are you concerned you'll have to rework / throw away some of what you've done?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 02:15 PM   #12
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I would say yes.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 02:25 PM   #13
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You've already started building that. Are you concerned you'll have to rework / throw away some of what you've done?
Not if he thinks hard enough about it
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 02:41 PM   #14
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You've already started building that. Are you concerned you'll have to rework / throw away some of what you've done?
No, I am at a point where with minimum design changes I can make it work. If I completed the cab it would be a issue.

That is why I am dragging my feet progress wise choosing axles.

In the front there will be no real changes. In the rear I will need to offset the engine to use a stock setup. Or, I could simply relocate the rear diff by building a different housing and putting in some different shafts.

I am looking at 10k for a rockwell 2.5/5ton hybrid and that's without a arb. Or 11k for a bolt on portal setup and told they are "offroad only".

I can get these axles for around 4k-5k in good rebuilt condition. The outers heating up is a issue. But, I do not see why I can not keep them warm by circulating the fluid with a tilton pump in the same manner as with my transfer case.

I have seen a few post saying the front diff is nothing more then the rear diff used in the front and running on the coast side. They come factory like this a few post have said so it seems that a front axle could be used in the rear and a rear in the front.

Although who knows how dependable the internet knowledge base is.

If I could do that setup I would be able pull the front and place it in the rear and correct the rotation. On paper anyway.

I really don't know anything about these. I am going off the little bits and pieces at this point. Some first hand experience would be great.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 03:00 PM   #15
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Sometimes I wonder what would happen if you and hag-gar had a love child
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 03:06 PM   #16
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Sometimes I wonder what would happen if you and hag-gar had a love child
You sit around and daydream about dudes getting it on?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 03:12 PM   #17
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And Shazzam, there he is!!!
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 03:31 PM   #18
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Why not use a set of cement truck axles you will for sure never break them.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 03:53 PM   #19
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Why not use a set of cement truck axles you will for sure never break them.
Actually there is a guy on pirate using axle tech 4000's. It is a very interesting build. I have no need for anything that big.

I am trying to keep the pinion high to reduce angle with the 4200-4700rpm drive shafts going into them leading to u joint issues.

I know the 2.5/5ton's will work without a doubt. The ability to pull off 40" inboard "street" tires and install outboard 54" tires is tempting. That is what the design has been for up to this point.

If I can get additional clearance, added strength, and a axle that seems like it will gain aftermarket popularity in a manner of years for 1/2 the price it is worth looking into.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 04:32 PM   #20
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But will they be ok with flying over the whoops at 90 mph? That is your real question.
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