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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:21 PM   #1
mudrunner456
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Default shortening xj front driveshaft for use on a tj

Well did an sye a few weeks ago and shortend a cherokee front shaft. Works pretty good but has vibes over 50mph. Going to get another xj shaft in the morning for another try. Plus a spare would be nice. Last time I shortend it on the cv side right before the splines. Also I left the factory weights on which i dont know was good or bad. I was thinking this time about cutting the cv joint off and shorten it there. But I will lose the factory weights. Any advise would be great.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:30 PM   #2
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I've had D&R do my shaft work on several rigs. They'll cut it down, put it together and balance it. Zero problems. Since you messed with it, the factory weights are useless. Have it checked out and balanced.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:40 PM   #3
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How did you check to make sure the shaft was straight? if you changed it in anyway the weights will not be the same...
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:47 PM   #4
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I put a line on it before I cut it all the way down one side. Cut the section and lined it back up.clamped the flat sections of the yokes down to a flat bar so the were in phase. Also I tig welded it to keep down on a big globby weld. I called mr axle here in muskegon and they wanted 200 bucks to shorten and balance which I think is rediculous. Im not saying I got it perfect the first time which is why im asking for suggestions. After a google search people seem to be doing it with no issues but not providing much details or pics.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:49 PM   #5
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$200 to cut, weld and balance?!? D&R charged me approx $80 to do it all. It was for a front shaft to go in the rear.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #6
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Yea 200. I said the same thing. Holy shit ill try it my self. I mean for about 400 I can get a brand new one with brand new u joints and everything ready to go. Didnt make much sence to put that kind of money in a used on
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:58 PM   #7
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I also read about putting some trans fluid in the shaft to help balance it. I guess if I dont get it this time ill have two spares after I order a brand new one.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 10:01 PM   #8
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Before you fully welded it, did you you tack it in the 4 "corners" so as to minimize how much it pulled it out of alignment as the weld cooled? When I did mine, I had a pretty tight fit between the tube and the yoke. I phased it, tacked in four spots, then burnt in 1/4, turned it 1/2 turn, burnt the opposite 1/4. Then I turned it, burnt the third 1/4, turned it and burnt the last 1/4... Then I left it to cool nice and slow. I've heard of guys using dial indicators and using compressed air in localized areas to pull it straight as it cools, but I'm thinking that might be for racecar shafts...
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Old March 29th, 2013, 10:07 PM   #9
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Yes. It was tacked good. My main question is am I cutting it in the right spot. Were I cut is pretty much the middle of the shaft. Which if it was not perfectly straight could be causing the wobble. Wondering if cutting off of the end is a better approach
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Old March 29th, 2013, 10:11 PM   #10
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I cut mine at the end closest to the spline. Machined the weld off of the spline end, cut the remaining tube to the right length, stuck it together and welded...
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Old March 30th, 2013, 01:26 PM   #11
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Well round 2 went better hardly any vibes. Added some trans fluid to the first one and now that one rides smooth also. Thanks for the help
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Old March 30th, 2013, 01:35 PM   #12
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Is there a formula to how much fluid you put in vs how long the shaft is, or is it guesswork?
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Old March 30th, 2013, 01:55 PM   #13
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I read a cup on another forum. But I just guessed really.
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