|October 12th, 2013, 12:34 PM||#1|
Join Date: 04-09-10
Location: Bay Port, MI
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
95 24v fummins with 16x8 dually wheels build
Well I've been to lazy to post the build of my current project until now, mostly due to the fact I could not find any info anywhere on fitting some wide 16x8 wheels under the rear of a dually. The goal is to cram the tires under the wheel well close to the frame as possible and not have them hang out way out. Specs of the truck so far is as follows. started with 95 ford 2wd crew cab dually if found locally on craigslist i scored for $900 with no motor or trans. was an Oklahoma truck that never seen a michigan winter = no rust! Drivetrain is from a wrecked 99 dodge 2500 cummins that a buddy rolled over. He already had a high tech turbo, 90hp injectors, ats manifold, and few other things I cant think of right now. engine is backed by an auto built up with suncoast converter, billet input shaft and im sure other stuff. Im going to be using the dodge front suspension and axle, going to try and retain the factory 2wd spring buckets and use some springs off of an 05 powerstroke (I hope) I was going to use the dodge rear end with factory limited slip, but decided against it due to trying to turn 4 315's. Im going to use a SRW sterling axle out of 95 ford. I can get the widths for anyone who wants them, but the sterling SRW and DRW are essentially the same axle, just the dually features longer axle tubes and shafts. The hubs are the same between both axles. ok, time for the pictures..
The truck after just getting it home, pretty clean except for some damage to the bottom of the dually flares and a few minor dents and dings.
To get the clearance to stack the 315/85/16's i decided to move the stock spring up under the frame. I cut the rivets off of the factory spring hangers front and rear and ditched those. I made the front bracket by tracing the holes of the original onto some 1/4" and had a buddy punch all the holes out using an iron worker. (much easier than me drilling them, only cost me a couple beers too) I cut a piece out of chunk of 3" square tubing to build the inner piece and drilled 2 holes for the bolts to go through on the lower frame rail flange. There re already 2 holes in the frame there, i just had to enlarge them.
I should have enough clearance between the floor of the box and the top of the tire because of the 3" body lift. I am not a huge fan of body lifts but It was necessary anyway to clear the turbo and the heater box under the hood. moving the springs under the frame also gains about a 4-6" lift depending on where the shackles are mounted. I plan on using some pieces of 1 1/2 wide x 5 long 1/4 steel for the shackles. the straps will go on either side of the frame rail like an old 70's chevy (i think). just have to cut a hole in the frame and weld a tube in and use a factory spring bushing. not sue how its gonna clear the rear fuel tank, if i doesn't I have a good sized hammer that can make clearance this could be avoided by simply welding a tube to the bottom of the frame, but i don't want the truck sitting much higher than it already is. If someone was to do this and not want their truck lifted you could use the same setup only with a spring under axle and be fairly close to stock. sorry dont have a good pic of the shackles right now but i will post one up sometime when i get a chance. Ok onto the wheels..
wheels centers are off an 01 ford e350 ambulance. The E series still use the 8x6.5 bolt pattern unlike all the new ford metric stuff, and I like the 8 hole look unlike all the stock stuff. I plan on running some cheap 16x8 8 hole steelies on the front to match the rears. Once again a trade for a case of beer from a buddy got these I cut the centers out of another set of cheap 16x8 steel wheels from a buddy (case of beer) with the plasma at work using the gouging tip to cut the welds off where the shell and centers meet. Billy the guy I work with cut the centers out of the dually wheels since he is a lot better with the plasma than i am. we clamped the spindle and hub from the front of the 2wd and bolted the wheel to it to make kind of a rotisserie kinda deal and he taped a metal rod on the plasma to keep the distance from center right. He cut the welds off sacrificing the outer shell since it was not needed anyway. I had the local machine shop chuck them up on their lathe and true the outside of the center up. The I.D. of the shell and the I.D. of the center are the same size so the center buts up against the shell unlike going inside it like the factory. which is ok since I need all the offset I can get. Billy averaged 1 beer per wheel as you can see in the picture haha. here is our centering setup.
measured out a couple pieces of flat stock and drilled holes in the center anad notched them out to interlock with each other. they fit tight in the center of the shell and the wheel center. we tried using a dial indicator to true them up but it didnt work to well with the little pits and rust in the wheel. we ended up just setting a hammer on the table and spinning the wheel till we could get it true, kinda like you do on a dayton wheel on a semi.
got them tacked then Billy burned them in
The finished product, just gotta grind them down and paint them up now!
you can see in the pic we had to weld the valve stem hole shut, just have to drill a new one so it will have a little more clearance from the shell. Billy did weld them on both sides of the center just for a little insurance, the factory is just on one side.
Here they are on the truck, they should be in closer to the frame a little more than in the pic, that is the dodge axle, the ford one going under it is a little narrower. if i guessed right I should still clear the spring by about an inch with the sidewall of the tire. the offset is 2" on each wheel, which is about how far the tire bulges past the edge of the rim, meaning I am still going to have to run a 2" spacer between the wheels. yet to come is rear brakes but it is way to nice outside today to be sitting in front of this computer so i will post that stuff later. Hope this helps give you guys that want some wide dually wheels ideas for their own projects.
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