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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:16 PM   #21
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When I did the research, Central is the best you can get. But, you pay for it. I installed a Wood Master for my dad. It's a great boiler, bang for buck wise. We also spend the money on the good insulated pex. Wasn't cheap, but I don't loose (but maybe) 1 degree from the boiler, 140' to the house boiler.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:25 PM   #22
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I lose 30* by the time I get to my pole barn, I'll go check the drop in the house. ANd yes Central Boiler is the best on the market, and Shawn is right, you do pay for it!
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:33 PM   #23
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I lose 30* by the time I get to my pole barn, I'll go check the drop in the house. ANd yes Central Boiler is the best on the market, and Shawn is right, you do pay for it!
If you loose 30* from burner to your house you need new pipe!
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:35 PM   #24
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We have had our Central Boiler for 13 years now. Only replaced two pumps and the door solenoid. We buy our in bolts 20 cords at a time and that will last two years. So it costs $900 a year for the house,garage,hot tub and water. If I could do it over again I would of spent the money and ran insulation /pec in PVC pipe.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:40 PM   #25
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If you loose 30* from burner to your house you need new pipe!
I guess I measured it wrong, and it was to the pole barn not the house...I drop 1* at the house into the hot water heater, 3* from the hot water heater to the upstairs furnace, I didn't go measure the pole barn again, but I drop 10* to the basement furnace which get its supply from the pole barn. My circuit goes from the boiler to the hot water heater, upstairs furnace, pole barn, basement furnace, back to boiler. I also run mine at 165*, I've ran it as high as 185* but I dropped it and I'm using less wood as a result
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:43 PM   #26
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I guess I measured it wrong, and it was to the pole barn not the house...I drop 1* at the house into the hot water heater, 3* from the hot water heater to the upstairs furnace, I didn't go measure the pole barn again, but I drop 10* to the basement furnace which get its supply from the pole barn. My circuit goes from the boiler to the hot water heater, upstairs furnace, pole barn, basement furnace, back to boiler. I also run mine at 165*, I've ran it as high as 185* but I dropped it and I'm using less wood as a result
2 pumps?
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Old January 10th, 2013, 06:52 PM   #27
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Biggest advantage? No more messy ass wood in the house
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Old January 10th, 2013, 07:14 PM   #28
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2 pumps?
one pump
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Old January 10th, 2013, 08:02 PM   #29
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I'm done using the indoor woodstove after a couple chimney fires, plugged chimneys filling my house with smoke, going up on the roof at 3am in a snow storm to unplug it,
You're doing something wrong. Most likely burning wood that isn't properly seasoned. Even if you never cleaned your flue, it would take many years for it to plug when operating the stove correctly and burning 1-2 year minimum seasoned wood.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 08:59 PM   #30
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I keep telling hancho, if you can dedicate approximately 1/2 acre to growing hybrid poplar trees you can grow enough wood to keep your house heated.

Of course you will need a 1-2 year lead time to let the trees start to grow big enough to cut down.

THere is plenty of info out there, but the idea is start with 500 trees, wait until the base is 4" diameter, cut half the trees down and use for your first years firewood. Replenish those 250 trees.
If my math is right, a tree every 6'. Interesting.

Never burned poplar, is it a good heat source?
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Old January 10th, 2013, 09:02 PM   #31
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If my math is right, a tree every 6'. Interesting.

Never burned poplar, is it a good heat source?
Your math is solid.

Its not as good as oak or ash but it grows fast as shit and still puts off good heat
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Old January 10th, 2013, 09:02 PM   #32
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You're doing something wrong. Most likely burning wood that isn't properly seasoned. Even if you never cleaned your flue, it would take many years for it to plug when operating the stove correctly and burning 1-2 year minimum seasoned wood.
kinda sorta, we run a ton of chimney fires and people always claim they "just got it cleaned"

I will never have a fire place in my house, the new triple wall pipe that is on the market sucks and rots and looses its insulating value very quickly. We have seen a significant rise in chimney fires in new construction.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 09:23 PM   #33
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kinda sorta, we run a ton of chimney fires and people always claim they "just got it cleaned"

I will never have a fire place in my house, the new triple wall pipe that is on the market sucks and rots and looses its insulating value very quickly. We have seen a significant rise in chimney fires in new construction.
When you say new construction, are you referring to the pre-fab type fireplaces? I'm not a big fan of stove pipe exiting through the side of the house then upwards. Too cool of pipe temps can also promote creosote. I have a 6" stainless flex liner inside an old brick chimney this is overbuilt. I feel this is the safest way to go. I'm considering adding pour in insulation to the chimney also.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 09:30 PM   #34
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Your math is solid.

Its not as good as oak or ash but it grows fast as shit and still puts off good heat
Might be worth a try, I have some open space to try planing a 1/2 acre or so.
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Old January 10th, 2013, 09:56 PM   #35
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We've had our 6048 Central Boiler for 5 years now. Our home was actually sized for the smaller size, but I chose to step up one size. I don't regret it.
We average between 10-13 FULL Chords of wood a year, depending on how cold it is. We usually load it 2 times a day. Apx every 12 hours. We usually burn from Oct 1-April 15th.
We have 40 acres of land to get my wood supply from. It's great family time together, and a great work out. I love a 20 degree winter day.
To me it's the best weather for cutting & splitting.
Seasoned Hard Wood is the best, but I like to mix a little bit of green stuff in. You'll learn what your stove likes as you develope your "Wood Burning MoJo".
OUR STATS: 2100'sqft home, hot water heater, 36'x38' garage, and 2 base board radiators on the second level of our house. (kids bedrooms)
I run ours at 185 degrees. I've ran it as high as 195 degrees, but I found my wood burning MoJo is 185*.
Had to buy our first tank of propane in 5 years this year, and we didn't actually fill it completely.
The best decision we've ever made.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me.

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Old January 11th, 2013, 05:41 AM   #36
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You're doing something wrong. Most likely burning wood that isn't properly seasoned. Even if you never cleaned your flue, it would take many years for it to plug when operating the stove correctly and burning 1-2 year minimum seasoned wood.
I harvest dead standing trees from my land, usually elm and cherry, and now ash. The cherry can be tricky because 80% of the tree will be dead but have a limb still growing. I believe that that green wood was the cause of some of my issues. Cutting wood 2 yrs in advance is ideal. I'm hoping I can get to that point soon. The woodshed at the boiler sounds like a great idea, I'll need to build one twice as big as to store the next seasons wood on one side.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 05:51 AM   #37
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Biggest advantage? No more messy ass wood in the house
this times 10000000000
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Old January 11th, 2013, 06:37 AM   #38
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I'm intrigued by wood burning furnaces/boilers. Have not looked into if I can have 1 where I live, but my current thought is can you take a week vacation in the middle of winter and not worry about your house becoming an ice brick once you get home? Pipes frozen or the dogs water dish being solid?
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Old January 11th, 2013, 06:39 AM   #39
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It ties into your existing furnace. When the wood burns out the furnace takes over.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 06:42 AM   #40
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It ties into your existing furnace. When the wood burns out the furnace takes over.
Ah.....I thought for sure you guys eliminated the indoor house furnace.
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