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Old December 20th, 2012, 05:44 AM   #1
HandyRacing
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Arrow Need help w 98 ZJ transmission solonoid problem please

Good day all... Was rolling the trusty Grand Cherokee down the highway into work the other morning. As as I let up on the gas for some merging interchange highway traffic it lurched just a bit when I let up and it began to slow down. A minute later the check engine light came on.

After work took it to AutoZone to read the code and it flashed PO753, and the guy said there's two solenoids, maybe a third, and a relay down there but can't determine which component is causing the fault. The guy also said his parts look up computer says it has either a 42RE or a 44RE transmission it it, which was new to me.

Limped it home slow and parked it, looked up the code in my Chiltons and it confirms the code description from the scan (as Trans 3 to 4 shift solenoid / trans relay circuits), but the transmission section has zip nada on solenoids or relay details, location, procedure or anything.

Aside from above symptoms when it happened and the code, it doesn't seem to have first gear, or fourth, but seems to shift OK between 2nd and 3rd. It goes from a standing start but obviously starts out with less power (apparently in 2nd), and when rolling down the road just won't go into 4th at speed.

Are these external / changeable without pulling the tranny? Anyone change these or the relay and can help me sort this out? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Last edited by HandyRacing; December 20th, 2012 at 05:48 AM.
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Old December 20th, 2012, 06:57 AM   #2
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What engine and I can tell you what trans. 6cyl = 42. 8cyl 5.2 = 44 .
Also, sounds like your in limp in mode. In that case the fault is still active and we can test for issues.
Have you done anything lately under the hood?
How is your Speedo? And your rpm? Still working?

Last edited by JeepInABox; December 20th, 2012 at 07:02 AM.
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Old December 20th, 2012, 08:36 AM   #3
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Probably the gov. pressure sensor and solenoid. They are easy to change with the pan off, no need to pull the transmission...in fact most of the sensors are accessible by dropping the pan.
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Old December 20th, 2012, 05:28 PM   #4
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You should still be able to drive it and shift it manually. You won't get overdrive, but if you shift directly to first you will have it at takeoff. You will need to make a complete stop, then neutral and back to first to get first after driving.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 06:22 AM   #5
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Thanks everyone, these are all clues that I hope helps me sort it out / fix it on my own. Kind of on principle... I'd rather not take it to a dealership unless I have to. Its a 4.0 by the way, so I guess its a 42 tranny. With a multi-meter, are there parameters I should be able to check once I can put my fingers on these devices?
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Old December 21st, 2012, 06:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
You should still be able to drive it and shift it manually. You won't get overdrive, but if you shift directly to first you will have it at takeoff. You will need to make a complete stop, then neutral and back to first to get first after driving.
It didn't seem to want to go to 1st manually, but I didn't try the neutral step either, will on Saturday when I take a closer look. It seemed to run at around 3000 RPM at around 60 or 65 on the highway, before I pulled off and drove the back roads slower (my son was concerned the torque converter might be slipping and I would cause additional damage).

I'm a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but internal motor and transmission are uncharted territory for me. Thanks.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 08:56 AM   #7
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Pulling the pan and valve body is pretty easy. You can buy the automatic transmission service guide to help, it's only like $20.

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Old December 21st, 2012, 09:10 AM   #8
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My 98 Grand Cherokee trans did the same thing I have the same motor do what ajmorell said that's what I had to do
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Old December 21st, 2012, 09:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmorell View Post
Pulling the pan and valve body is pretty easy. You can buy the automatic transmission service guide to help, it's only like $20.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
That would be great, I plan on either having this ZJ or one like it for quite awhile... hate to ask a dumb question but can you post a link to the manual you would suggest?

(I imagine there are numerous different ones available, some better than others) Thanks

And thanks NewDodge.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:12 AM   #10
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http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Je...J/93ZJ_21S.PDF

Replace the gov solenoid and pressure sensor, replace the pan gasket and filter, and you'll need about 5-6 quarts of atf +4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42RE-44RE-51...5ad5a2&vxp=mtr
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Old December 21st, 2012, 10:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snboarder113 View Post
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Je...J/93ZJ_21S.PDF

Replace the gov solenoid and pressure sensor, replace the pan gasket and filter, and you'll need about 5-6 quarts of atf +4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42RE-44RE-51...5ad5a2&vxp=mtr
Thank you for the links. I was definately thinking changing everything under tha pan at once made sense. I guess its down to the relay (which I'm guessing is somewere in the engine compartment, I would like to test it before I pull the pan and rule it out?

I'd hate to pull the pan and change things, only to find out its was a simple relay. Think I'm on track?
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Old December 21st, 2012, 12:22 PM   #12
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There is likely a fuse that powers that relay in the pdc. That fuse should have 12v at all times.
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Old December 21st, 2012, 02:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
There is likely a fuse that powers that relay in the pdc. That fuse should have 12v at all times.
Hmmmm, I don't want to sound too much like a block head, but I would really have been bummed if I was too busy with my day job and making RC racing videos to think to check a silly fuse in the fender wall power distribution panel and that's all the problem was (is)... although if that fuse is blown, its likely a good sign the relay is bad too.

Thanks...
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