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Old December 12th, 2012, 10:24 AM   #21
in2deep
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well this is turning more into a tech post but i dont see a point to making another post on it, anyway how much weaker are the bj style 60 is it really worth saveing a few bucks going with a bj 60 or should i just suck it up and get a kp 60
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Old December 12th, 2012, 10:36 AM   #22
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BJ highsteer:
http://www.rocksolidperformance.com/...uckle-and-arm/
Discussion on BJ strength.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ll-joints.html
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Old December 12th, 2012, 10:42 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by in2deep View Post
what do you guys do for high steer on a ball joint 60
I believe that rock solid performance here in mi makes everything you need.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 10:50 AM   #24
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As far as strength.....i see it like this.....those balljoints were designed to hold up to a 7-8k + truck....my trailrig is less than 4k.....and you can get lifetime warranty parts.....i am not that concerned with strength.....especially when you see guys hanging 9'2" v plows on top of the weight of the stock truck.

Maybe i am all wrong.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 11:28 AM   #25
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I ran a bj 60 (1995) i beat the hell out of that axle. Running 40s and a v8. Broken and bent radius arms, stub shafts, wore out a lock right, and never once had a problem with the ball joints. I spun the pass side tube in the pig three times. And now both tubes are bent and the housing is junk. But the ball joints are fine. So are the knuckles and the c's.

And i.paid $200-50 for my axle. It had the yoke on the pinion broke off. Everything else was in excellent shape.

Last edited by CheapThrillB2; December 12th, 2012 at 11:43 AM.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 11:32 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by trailrail302 View Post
I have a balljoint 60 Im just going to run on the top side of the knuckle mount rather than the bottom side. I think Rockcrusher makes arms that you can drill and tap the knuckle.
Are you gonna run hiems or tie rods? I have been running hiems over the top, i didnt like the drill the tie rod hole out route to fit a bolt. Seems the bolts always come loose eventually damaging the knuckles. I have been running a tapered stud in the knuckle. Its taper is close to the chevy tie rods, so if one ever decided to ditch the hiems to go to tie rods the knuckles are still usable.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/steeringlinkage.html
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Old December 12th, 2012, 01:35 PM   #27
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Very good to know it's fine to trust a ball joint axle. Lots of good info in here so far!
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Old December 12th, 2012, 01:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
Are you gonna run hiems or tie rods? I have been running hiems over the top, i didnt like the drill the tie rod hole out route to fit a bolt. Seems the bolts always come loose eventually damaging the knuckles. I have been running a tapered stud in the knuckle. Its taper is close to the chevy tie rods, so if one ever decided to ditch the hiems to go to tie rods the knuckles are still usable.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/steeringlinkage.html
I was going to run Hiems, and maybe saftey wire the nut so they dont come loose or drill the bolt and put a cotter pin in it.
But that set up from BCbroncos is pretty cool,

My king pin 60 I never had a problem with the hiem bolt coming loose but the high steer bolts would come loose all the time.

By running on the top side of the knuckle did you find that the tie rod was up high enough and out of the way?

Last edited by trailrail302; December 12th, 2012 at 01:54 PM.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 03:36 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
I am putting a 99-04 ball joint front 60 in my buggy. I got the rsp highsteer arms with the machined knuckles. The guys at rsp have built a ton of them and have beat the piss out of them. bj did an awesome job designing and machining them. You don't have to beat the arms on but they definitely take a couple taps with a hammer. He also machined the unit bearings to use a smaller brake setup and redrilled to 8 on 6.5. I am extremely satisfied with what they did.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 05:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrail302 View Post
I was going to run Hiems, and maybe saftey wire the nut so they dont come loose or drill the bolt and put a cotter pin in it.
But that set up from BCbroncos is pretty cool,

My king pin 60 I never had a problem with the hiem bolt coming loose but the high steer bolts would come loose all the time.

By running on the top side of the knuckle did you find that the tie rod was up high enough and out of the way?
I never really had any issues. I plan to do the same setup on my new axle.
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Old December 12th, 2012, 09:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrail302 View Post
I was going to run Hiems, and maybe saftey wire the nut so they dont come loose or drill the bolt and put a cotter pin in it.
But that set up from BCbroncos is pretty cool,

My king pin 60 I never had a problem with the hiem bolt coming loose but the high steer bolts would come loose all the time.

By running on the top side of the knuckle did you find that the tie rod was up high enough and out of the way?
My flipped tie rod is well above my axle tube. Hasn't been an issue.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 04:11 PM   #32
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anyone run a sd 60 out of newer stuff i can get one really cheap but its go a tweaked tube
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Old December 13th, 2012, 07:34 PM   #33
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My flipped tie rod is well above my axle tube. Hasn't been an issue.
You can flip a tie rod on a chevette?
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Old December 14th, 2012, 05:49 AM   #34
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You can flip a tie rod on a chevette?
Yes, the secret is locating the front axle tube first though.
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