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Old December 5th, 2012, 09:49 AM   #21
eshallbetter
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We cut and turned the beams and plated the front and back side, added the front truss and gusseting, windowed the passenger side beam for the axle shaft, gusseted that window, replaced the bushing pivots with uniballs, clocked the diff, and built new radius arms that are welded to the beams. Everything in the suspension is ours, we did not buy anything. Thanks for the compliments.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 09:53 AM   #22
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What kind of joint is that on thend of your ttb's for the pivot?
Would you be interested in sharing some of your measurements on the "cut n turn"? I would like to compare them to mine to see where I am at.

Make sure you post pictures/video's when this is done. I like where you are going with it.


FYI..........I know of a place that has reasonable one piece frontends for that if you want to go lighter.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 10:08 AM   #23
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Thanks, but I have all my glass already!

On the cut and turn it may be hard for me to answer... one, because I did it a long time ago and don't remember exactly, and 2, I did mine a little different than most. Most just move the lower balljoint mount out, I cut the beam itself and moved the whole end to correct camber. This keeps the balljoints in the same relation as stock so they are not misaligned in the spindle, but it necessitates clocking the differential in the housing. It takes more work but is the "correct" way to do it in my opinion, but both ways have been proven to work. Which method are you using for your cut and turn? Remember, the distance will be slightly different from one side to the other given the different beam lengths. You will also want to correct camber using the 0 shims. Also check out GoFastBroncos.com that is where I usually hang out and there is a wealth of C&T knowledge there.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 12:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eshallbetter View Post
Thanks, but I have all my glass already!

On the cut and turn it may be hard for me to answer... one, because I did it a long time ago and don't remember exactly, and 2, I did mine a little different than most. Most just move the lower balljoint mount out, I cut the beam itself and moved the whole end to correct camber. This keeps the balljoints in the same relation as stock so they are not misaligned in the spindle, but it necessitates clocking the differential in the housing. It takes more work but is the "correct" way to do it in my opinion, but both ways have been proven to work. Which method are you using for your cut and turn? Remember, the distance will be slightly different from one side to the other given the different beam lengths. You will also want to correct camber using the 0 shims. Also check out GoFastBroncos.com that is where I usually hang out and there is a wealth of C&T knowledge there.

Same,...............I mounted a front sub to my garage wall, and cycled the TTB through full droop and full compression, until it worked out at max for both. I don't know how much I moved them, but I can measure out geometry now that they are assembled. I like your trussing. I think I may do similar, but was wondering if it is really needed.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 12:52 PM   #25
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you are a very, very sick man!
Where you gonna wheel that beast? Out west I assume
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Old December 5th, 2012, 01:12 PM   #26
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Out west, Silverlake, the TORC series (The guys have agreed to let me run formula4x4 class with them even though it's illegal, they need truck count) Where ever it fits between trees...
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Old December 5th, 2012, 04:07 PM   #27
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Nice work, on both of those rigs!!
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Old December 5th, 2012, 10:21 PM   #28
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Default Porting steering gear.

Tonight I ported the Steering Gear for a ram. Erik welded and started installing the swingset steering.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 09:48 AM   #29
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Now all I need is the steering box mounted back up! Then I can finish getting the swingset steering in.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 10:52 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eshallbetter View Post
Out west, Silverlake, the TORC series (The guys have agreed to let me run formula4x4 class with them even though it's illegal, they need truck count) Where ever it fits between trees...

lol, with the rules changing so rapidly Erik, you're bronco will be legal for that class by the time its finished...
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Old December 6th, 2012, 11:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eshallbetter View Post
Out west, Silverlake, the TORC series (The guys have agreed to let me run formula4x4 class with them even though it's illegal, they need truck count) Where ever it fits between trees...
Cool I look forward to seeing it. I have been going to a couple TORC races a year. I would still be driving a big Bronco everyday except for the price of gas.
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Old December 10th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #32
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OK, I got the steering in on saturday night. It is a single swingset steering, and it should help drastically with the bumpsteer. The TTB's are notorious for horrible geometry, and this should get it down to about .125" bumpsteer rather than the inches the stock draglink will get you. Waiting on some more parts before I can continue on the driveline...
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Old January 26th, 2013, 01:32 PM   #33
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Started doing the gearing but I wasn't going to spend the 280 bucks to buy a puller so we made one...
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Old January 26th, 2013, 01:37 PM   #34
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We started stripping the truck back down to do more plumbing and wiring.
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Old January 26th, 2013, 01:38 PM   #35
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We also started stripping it down to work on more plumbing and wiring.

Edit: oops on the double post.
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