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Old September 2nd, 2013, 10:19 AM   #1201
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I had every intention of replacing all my lower links. But before spending the $ I wanted to make sure I was happy with how it performed. I think mine are all 2" .250 if I remember correctly.
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Old September 2nd, 2013, 10:22 AM   #1202
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Where is that notch at?

Congrats on the win guys. Did Erin give you a sticker?
A little better reference on the notch. Beefy started knocking it down before breaking his tcase.

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Old September 2nd, 2013, 11:16 AM   #1203
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good talking with you and playing sunday morning man. congrats on the competition win.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 10:50 AM   #1204
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FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

DOM = 16.5 pounds/ ft
Alum = 11.3 pounds/ ft
Weight savings = 62 pounds.

To me, it wasn't worth the extra cash to save that little weight.

I don't see this as a right or wrong way to go........... purely personal choice. My one other reason I liked the steel is that if necessary, it's weldable. Let a jam nut come loose & wabble out the tapped hole on aluminum & you are screwed. With steel, weld the fawker up and go back to wheeling.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 11:18 AM   #1205
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bend straight with press, weld angle iron on, wheel
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 11:52 AM   #1206
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Keep bent ones as spare

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 12:15 PM   #1207
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Keep bent ones as spare

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At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 12:55 PM   #1208
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He Does
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 03:12 PM   #1209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.
Does that include bungs and time to weld them in? Not that most people measure time, but having done both styles. Aluminum definitely wins as far as hassle goes.

If you're going to go with steel I would suggest going lighter wall than 3/8 using chromoly and getting them heat treated. Especially if its for a buggy, a full bodied rig who cares, its already heavy so use 3/8 wall.

I run 2.25" AL lowers on my buggy since thats what Branik recommends for racing. They have held up great so far after over a dozen wheeling trips and two TREC races I did last year.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 03:52 PM   #1210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............
Look who is talking.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 04:26 PM   #1211
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my lower links are sleeved chevy torsion bars.... im told they wont break not sure i like the weight though.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 06:06 PM   #1212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............
Burned... Hahaha
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I have not ate in months
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 08:24 PM   #1213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROXROES View Post
Does that include bungs and time to weld them in? Not that most people measure time, but having done both styles. Aluminum definitely wins as far as hassle goes.

If you're going to go with steel I would suggest going lighter wall than 3/8 using chromoly and getting them heat treated. Especially if its for a buggy, a full bodied rig who cares, its already heavy so use 3/8 wall.

I run 2.25" AL lowers on my buggy since thats what Branik recommends for racing. They have held up great so far after over a dozen wheeling trips and two TREC races I did last year.
No, material only. I guess you didn't read that I went with the thicker wall to tap them direct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJ View Post
Look who is talking.
Next time you break your steering you can look elsewhere for a welder.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 08:27 PM   #1214
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Would said welder be the same one you bought from me?
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 08:30 PM   #1215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
No, material only. I guess you didn't read that I went with the thicker wall to tap them direct.
Reading isn't my strong point, I'm more hands on.
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 08:40 PM   #1216
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I like pizza
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 08:42 PM   #1217
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I like turtles
fixed.


Just use I beams for your links
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 10:06 PM   #1218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

DOM = 16.5 pounds/ ft
Alum = 11.3 pounds/ ft
Weight savings = 62 pounds.

To me, it wasn't worth the extra cash to save that little weight.

I don't see this as a right or wrong way to go........... purely personal choice. My one other reason I liked the steel is that if necessary, it's weldable. Let a jam nut come loose & wabble out the tapped hole on aluminum & you are screwed. With steel, weld the fawker up and go back to wheeling.
But the aluminum ones can be so nice and shiny

Before



After

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Old September 3rd, 2013, 10:39 PM   #1219
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Originally Posted by NightKrawler View Post
But the aluminum ones can be so nice and shiny

Before



After

I should have never told you how to polish those lol
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Old September 3rd, 2013, 11:35 PM   #1220
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Bling blaau!
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