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Old October 22nd, 2012, 01:10 PM   #1
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Winterizing

My first boat, so the first time I have winterized. I have a 3.0 Mercruiser.

I have
Changed the engine oil and filter
changed the drive oil
fogged the carb
fogged the cylinders
sta-bil the fuel
removed the two drain plugs

What does everyone do with their battery? I am thinking about bringing it inside and keeping a maintenance charger on it.

Does anyone else take any time to do something different for winterizing?
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 05:39 PM   #2
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Sounds like you have it covered. This is my first time with a o/b and not real sure what to do. I've have three I/b and did what you did but I also but boat antifreeze in the cooling system. I have a Yamaha o/b and not sure how to winterize it so it looks like I'll be taking it in.
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 05:54 PM   #3
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Bringing your battery in will help prolong the life of it, but most storage facilities don't remove them before storage. You're going to want to run some antifreeze through it. It not only helps keep the block from freezing but also will help clean the scale out of the cooling system.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 08:45 AM   #4
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How do you run antifreeze through? Do I just open the t-stat housing and dump some in?

The storage facility is my garage so I already removed the battery.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 09:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj65 View Post
Sounds like you have it covered. This is my first time with a o/b and not real sure what to do. I've have three I/b and did what you did but I also but boat antifreeze in the cooling system. I have a Yamaha o/b and not sure how to winterize it so it looks like I'll be taking it in.
2 stroke or 4 stroke?

2 strokes are easy, run em on fogging oil, shut it off, remove plug put a quick squirt of fogging oil in each cylinder, change lower unit lube, grease all zirks, disco battery.

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How do you run antifreeze through? Do I just open the t-stat housing and dump some in?

The storage facility is my garage so I already removed the battery.
Some guys just dump some in, others will run the antifreeze into the motor through the ear muffs, I climbed up onto the roof with a funnel and antifreeze and a hose and sol goode hooked up the ear muffs and ran the boat til it spit anti freeze out the exhaust.

Use the pink RV stuff.

After that, crack open all the coolant drains in case you do have left over water it has somewhere to go instead of ruining stuff when it freezes.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 09:22 AM   #6
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2 stroke or 4 stroke?

2 strokes are easy, run em on fogging oil, shut it off, remove plug put a quick squirt of fogging oil in each cylinder, change lower unit lube, grease all zirks, disco battery.



Some guys just dump some in, others will run the antifreeze into the motor through the ear muffs, I climbed up onto the roof with a funnel and antifreeze and a hose and sol goode hooked up the ear muffs and ran the boat til it spit anti freeze out the exhaust.

Use the pink RV stuff.

After that, crack open all the coolant drains in case you do have left over water it has somewhere to go instead of ruining stuff when it freezes.
It's 2 stroke thanks !
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 12:00 PM   #7
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It's 2 stroke thanks !
in all reality, a 2 stroke outboard really doesn't "require" winterizing.

They self drain, meaning any water that the pump sucks in for cooling will drain out of the motor (when stored upright). So you run very little risk of freezing and cracked blocks.

Consult your owners manual, but typically I like to run them on the hose and spray in enough fogging oil to either make them quit, or at least smoke like a mother and then shut them off, as mentioned a quick squirt of fogging oil in each cylinder. New plugs this time of year never hurts as well. Drain gear lube out of lower unit, replace with factory recommended gear lube (more maintenance then winterizing hear, but also ensures if you did get water in the lower unit it is out before winter and won't cause damage).

fresh coat of grease on the propshaft to prevent corrosion I always stored my props inside during the winter because of the cost to replace if stolen. Still never a bad idea to grease your shaft

My old man always sprayed the motor with a little anti corrosion stuff (under the hood).

Grease all zirks and you're good to go.

2-3 beer job max. But you can stretch it into a 6 pack if your wife is annoying.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 12:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickstand View Post

Use the pink RV stuff.

After that, crack open all the coolant drains in case you do have left over water it has somewhere to go instead of ruining stuff when it freezes.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE PINK RV STUFF.

It has no anti-corrosion properties and is designed for use in plumbing systems - not engines and drives.

Use standard automotive anti-freeze and be sure flush it out prior to putting the boat in the water in spring.

The process described works - I had a kit with a large tank with fittings that allowed you to run the boat up to temperature and switch from water to the muffs to antifreeze from the tank. As stated run until antifreeze comes out of the cooling outlet.

Looked like this (except I wouldn't use the "red pop" plumbing antifreeze):



I used to additionally drain the exhaust manifolds and other easily-reached drain valves afterward to provide expansion space in the event of blockage somewhere that may have left a pocket of untreated water (as Chad described - a little paranoid, I know).
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 03:41 PM   #9
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I have never winterized an outboard other than putting stabil in the tank and running the carb dry. Thats 90% of why I like outboards...
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 03:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffMan View Post
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE PINK RV STUFF.

It has no anti-corrosion properties and is designed for use in plumbing systems - not engines and drives.

Use standard automotive anti-freeze and be sure flush it out prior to putting the boat in the water in spring.

The process described works - I had a kit with a large tank with fittings that allowed you to run the boat up to temperature and switch from water to the muffs to antifreeze from the tank. As stated run until antifreeze comes out of the cooling outlet.

Looked like this (except I wouldn't use the "red pop" plumbing antifreeze):



I used to additionally drain the exhaust manifolds and other easily-reached drain valves afterward to provide expansion space in the event of blockage somewhere that may have left a pocket of untreated water (as Chad described - a little paranoid, I know).
It is recommended to use the pink stuff because it is less poluttant to the water when you first launch your boat in the spring, plus that is what I have always heard of people using.

I have never actually owned a boat with a car motor in it, so i don't have any sort of actual recommendations other than what I have heard most people use.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 06:17 PM   #11
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Duffman your information about the pink anti freeze is incorrect.

I just happened past this tonight.



Appears it has anti corrosion properties.

Last edited by kickstand; October 23rd, 2012 at 06:26 PM.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 08:10 PM   #12
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i just found a video online that showed me where to add the antifreeze. thanks
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 08:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickstand View Post
Duffman your information about the pink anti freeze is incorrect.

I just happened past this tonight.



Appears it has anti corrosion properties.
Must've upgraded the product in recent years - it didn't use to have them and played hell with exhaust manifolds, where you typically had air pockets in the risers.

That's why I recommended the spring flush - to avoid dumping glycol into the water.

I stand corrected.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 08:35 PM   #14
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I've had inboards for years and have changed my process over the years. I have run Stabil in the tank 90% of the time. It would be 100% but I forget sometimes before it's out of the water. LOL I originally drained everything and then ran pink antifreeze through it till it blew out the exhaust. (somewhere close to 6 gallons). After several years of that, I was told I was wasting my time. Now I drain the two ports on the side of the block, pull all the hoses at the low ends and drain them, and then pull the thermostat out. (GM block) I pour about a quart or so of the pink stuff into the thermostat opening till some starts coming out the side block ports. Pull the battery and call it good. I know some people loosen the belts but I never have.

I too have never used traditional antifreeze due to the risk of pollutants in the lake. I'm not worried about anti corrosive issues either because there's none in the lake water that runs through it so why worry about it for the winter?
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Old October 24th, 2012, 07:25 AM   #15
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I cracked an exhaust manifold on a big-block Merc stern drive back in the 80s due to trapped water over the winter.

Ouch $.

So, afterward I've overdone it a bit.

Jetskis are much easier - I was done in about two hours for both, including doing SeaDoo pump oil...
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Old October 24th, 2012, 07:31 AM   #16
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I leave both my jet ski's right on their hoist. Stabil in the gas, fire them up to spit the water out, pull the battery and call it done.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 10:02 PM   #17
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Take it for what it is worth but I have been winterizing boats for a living for well over twenty years I have literally done well over five thousand boats and not a single one has ever come back with a problem.

There is some miss information being told here, never under any circumstance use toxic anti freeze it's just wrong period

Pink non tox anti freeze is perfect for motors I use pallets upon pallets of drums every year again zero issue but there is a key even though it is good to -50 out of the bottle even with a 10% dilution with water it goes from being good to -50 to around -5. And those are freeze temps it will slush up around 20 above.

If your boat is not fresh water cooled (it doesn't have anti freeze) the you need to get the engine up to temp or pull the t-stat otherwise you will end up with water still in the system and it will freeze.

When in doubt run more anti freeze through the system. I have a saying I have taught all my techs, anti freeze is cheap engines aren't!!

Any questions please drop me a PM for clarification.
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Old October 30th, 2012, 04:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffMan View Post
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE PINK RV STUFF.

It has no anti-corrosion properties and is designed for use in plumbing systems - not engines and drives.

Use standard automotive anti-freeze and be sure flush it out prior to putting the boat in the water in spring.

The process described works - I had a kit with a large tank with fittings that allowed you to run the boat up to temperature and switch from water to the muffs to antifreeze from the tank. As stated run until antifreeze comes out of the cooling outlet.

Looked like this (except I wouldn't use the "red pop" plumbing antifreeze):



I used to additionally drain the exhaust manifolds and other easily-reached drain valves afterward to provide expansion space in the event of blockage somewhere that may have left a pocket of untreated water (as Chad described - a little paranoid, I know).
not true USE THE PINK STUFF DO NOT USE AUTO IT IS NOT GOOD TO DUMP INTO THE LAKE THE PINK IS NON TOXIC. I WORK AT A BOAT SHOP WE USE PINK, BLUE, AND GREEN RV ( - 50 -100 AND -200 )
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Old October 31st, 2012, 09:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffMan View Post
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE PINK RV STUFF.

It has no anti-corrosion properties and is designed for use in plumbing systems - not engines and drives.

Use standard automotive anti-freeze and be sure flush it out prior to putting the boat in the water in spring.

The process described works - I had a kit with a large tank with fittings that allowed you to run the boat up to temperature and switch from water to the muffs to antifreeze from the tank. As stated run until antifreeze comes out of the cooling outlet.

Looked like this (except I wouldn't use the "red pop" plumbing antifreeze):



I used to additionally drain the exhaust manifolds and other easily-reached drain valves afterward to provide expansion space in the event of blockage somewhere that may have left a pocket of untreated water (as Chad described - a little paranoid, I know).

Wrong on so many levels.
Pink freeze is fine and recomended for boat storage on a open cooling system,just not closed systems.
Thanks for polluting our world with your green antifreeze,how the hell do you collect it all when it's coming out of exaust and lower unit?
Please rethink this it is not good for our earth.
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Old October 31st, 2012, 09:33 AM   #20
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With a I/O I drain the block and exaust logs first.Some times the exaust can have sedimate plugging up the drains,so you have to stick a drill bit or something in there to clean it out.Let all the water drain out and retighten the plugs.I then take a bucket I made with a hose and earmuffs attatched and fill it with rv freeze.I run 6-10 gallons of antifreeze through the system and reopen the drains for the winter.
I also run stabil in the gas,and change the lower unit oil,because it could have water contamination in it.

With outboards I put stabil in it and run it for awhile,then kill it with fogging oil.I change the lower unit oil,and call it good.

Dont forget to put a maintainer on your batteries ,take off your exspensive prop and grease up the shaft like kickstand said.
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