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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:56 AM   #1
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Default 2/1 ratio

Does anyone offer a 2.0/1 r/p for a ford 8.8 or chevy 10 bolt?

I am planning on getting a 2wd 1st gen s10 in the next 6 months and have been looking at T56 v8's runnning 4.11's.

A much simplier and cheaper approach is to drop in a v8 mated to a wide ratio 465 and run a 2/1 rear. If I can do that I will find a 4 banger with no options as a lightweight base. Cost is the major factor here I would be more then happy Paying around 1k if I could run this ratio getting , less engie wear, better mileage, less wheel hop, while still being able to put a few hundred pounds in the bed once amd a while.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 07:20 AM   #2
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I can't remember if the 8.8 goes below 3.27, but the 10 bolt had a 2.43 in some trucks.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 07:38 AM   #3
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What is the purpose of this? V8 + T56 + 4.11s + 1st gen S10 is to go fast. SM465 is the opposite of fast.

Are you going to find a 8.5 10-bolt that fits under an S10?

There were 2.47 and 2.33 ratios in some Ford 9's but good luck finding them.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 08:38 AM   #4
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What is the purpose of this? V8 + T56 + 4.11s + 1st gen S10 is to go fast. SM465 is the opposite of fast.

Are you going to find a 8.5 10-bolt that fits under an S10?

There were 2.47 and 2.33 ratios in some Ford 9's but good luck finding them.
Just a driver mainly doing it to lower highway rpm. I am ok having to granny shift if it means i can keep all the cheap to maintain/replace parts.

Yes I am talking about the s10 10 bolt. A 8.8 bolts right up and is stronger and gives disk for cheap while lightweight.

A shortend 9" is the plan B but will be heavier and more expensive.

I am trying to get a .5/1 high. I know the pinion forces will be high. But, no more then someone with a th350 with a transfer case in 2/1 low so a 8.8 would be perfect.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 09:00 AM   #5
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What you are trying to do will not give satisfactory results. You will need a push start to get going (fugurativly speaking), have no power in any gear, and the V8 will drink fuel because it will be under large loads far below it's peak torque rpm.

So what are you trying to do here? Mileage or power? If you are going to insist on such short rear end ratio, you'd better stick with an automatic to get the thing moving. A 700R4 might be the way to go, it has a 0.70:1 final ratio.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 09:05 AM   #6
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Will this truck be nickel plated?
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Old October 11th, 2012, 09:37 AM   #7
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Will this truck be nickel plated?
nope making it light as possible. The added 300lbs more then a Lt1 t56 is something I am ok with. I am shooting for a total weight of 2700.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 09:41 AM   #8
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Wtf
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tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 10:10 AM   #9
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FYI, the lowest ratio (numerically speaking) currently available from Yukon for the 8.8 is 3.07, and the GM8.5 10-Bolt is 2.73

edit: the GM7.5 10 Bolt is also 2.73
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Old October 11th, 2012, 11:07 AM   #10
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Guess I will need to find one with a 350 and 9".

Thanks for all the advise
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Old October 11th, 2012, 11:32 AM   #11
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You need to stop thinking. That would cure all your problems.

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Old October 11th, 2012, 01:24 PM   #12
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You really ought to rethink the concept of lowest rpm = highest mileage. Like others said, GM went away from those 2.72 type gears because those GM350s were failing due to sludge buildup, lugging, and lack of splash lubriation.

The above poster is wrong, it will not need a push start. With the granny low gear, it will still be lower than stock even with a 2.73 rear axle, which is about all you can really find out there. It would be obnoxiously low, actually.

The SM465 is going to add close to 100lbs, and suck to shift over a lighter more modern transmission.

Its just you wanting to use old outdated stuff more suited to medium duty trucks into a light duty vehicle.

If you want better fuel economy, you are going the wrong way. Find an aluminum block 5.3 V8, and bolt up an overdrive manual to it, such as an MA5 from a solstice or colorado truck. Run an S10 rear with 3.08 gears. You will have saved 200-250 lbs over a Chevy 350 and SM465, and it will also fit without cutting holes in your floor and dropping your crossmember (have you ever seen how big an SM465 is).. it will also be a pleasure to drive.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 02:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
You really ought to rethink the concept of lowest rpm = highest mileage. Like others said, GM went away from those 2.72 type gears because those GM350s were failing due to sludge buildup, lugging, and lack of splash lubriation.

The above poster is wrong, it will not need a push start. With the granny low gear, it will still be lower than stock even with a 2.73 rear axle, which is about all you can really find out there. It would be obnoxiously low, actually.

The SM465 is going to add close to 100lbs, and suck to shift over a lighter more modern transmission.

Its just you wanting to use old outdated stuff more suited to medium duty trucks into a light duty vehicle.

If you want better fuel economy, you are going the wrong way. Find an aluminum block 5.3 V8, and bolt up an overdrive manual to it, such as an MA5 from a solstice or colorado truck. Run an S10 rear with 3.08 gears. You will have saved 200-250 lbs over a Chevy 350 and SM465, and it will also fit without cutting holes in your floor and dropping your crossmember (have you ever seen how big an SM465 is).. it will also be a pleasure to drive.
I noted that I was speaking figurativly. The unit will still be a dog even with a granny gear. Upper gears may be unusable at higher speeds.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 04:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
You really ought to rethink the concept of lowest rpm = highest mileage. Like others said, GM went away from those 2.72 type gears because those GM350s were failing due to sludge buildup, lugging, and lack of splash lubriation.

The above poster is wrong, it will not need a push start. With the granny low gear, it will still be lower than stock even with a 2.73 rear axle, which is about all you can really find out there. It would be obnoxiously low, actually.

The SM465 is going to add close to 100lbs, and suck to shift over a lighter more modern transmission.

Its just you wanting to use old outdated stuff more suited to medium duty trucks into a light duty vehicle.

If you want better fuel economy, you are going the wrong way. Find an aluminum block 5.3 V8, and bolt up an overdrive manual to it, such as an MA5 from a solstice or colorado truck. Run an S10 rear with 3.08 gears. You will have saved 200-250 lbs over a Chevy 350 and SM465, and it will also fit without cutting holes in your floor and dropping your crossmember (have you ever seen how big an SM465 is).. it will also be a pleasure to drive.

I have a 2wd and 4wd 465 right now. They are heavy sob's but super cheap to rebuild.

I plan on putting out 350-400lbs of torque around 3500 rpm. There might be a turbo in there later on also. I think a ar-5 is rated for 300 tops. I am very hard on transmissions, clutches and have cracked a few flywheels. I already looked at ax15's and 3500's as a light weight option. I don't really want to screw with a 4500.

Even with the 6.xx ratio and 2.33 9" the 465 would shift like a th350 running 3.5ish gearing with a 3500 stall.





That dang t56 is looking better and better the more I try and screw around with the torque needed to make a 2/1 ratio work. I will need a 9" either way so I might as well do it right and find a lt1 t56 s10 already done and bite the bullet cost wise.

I was just looking at replacement and maintenance cost compared to the t56. The 465 is dirt cheap to fix and simple to rebuild. The t56 will cost around 1-2k more to rebuild then a 465. But screw it I am not putting a damn auto in there and be running 3k at 70. Will be better off finding one with a lt1 t56 then putting one in. Then will just send the trans out to get some beef and fix the common issues with the shift rails and such.

A few small simple upgrades to a lt1 and a upgraded t56 is what I was looking at before the idea of a 2/1 ratio 465 ever came into mind. Trying to go all old school cheap cave man junk is something hard to give up. The old school stuff is stupid tough and that gets a good amount of respect.

BTW. My buggy build is using a 350 mated to a wide ratio 465 and a 3 speed brownie(2nd aux transmission) to a single speed .75/1 reverse box to a 4.10 rear end ratio. The brownie has 3 selectable ratios(can be shifted at any time but no need) 3/1,1/1, and .72/1(yes it was very hard to find). It gives me a 60/1 craw in low. A 4.91, 2.68, 1.17, and .75 in "med". And a 3.53/1, 1.92/1, .84/1, .52/1 in high. So I am going all old school(except the reverse box) on the buggy for tough and reliable. So the t56 makes sense for the s10 but I am not giving up on the 465 heavyweight just yet. If the brownie grenades(very hard to do) or I just want to replace the seals it is divorced and I will still have the "med" ratios once I put in a longer propeller shaft.

I could use a brownie with the s10 and run 3.08 gears for .72 overdrive. But, they are called "crash boxes" for a reason. The way you make them last is not shifting them while driving. The t56 makes more sense from a weight perspective once it has been upgraded.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:17 PM   #15
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Like everything, you overthink it all.

Rules for building a vehicle:

Decide what you want the vehicle to do, then determine the best components to use.

Builds should never* usually start with: I have this transmission or engine, so I'll use that.

*If you were building a nostalgia or special vehicle around a special engine,thats different. Building around an SM465 because you have one is like putting a 305 or 318 in a Jeep... why bother?

And you want an LT1? really? Get a 6.0 truck motor, and if you are afraid of wiring, put a dual plate carbed intake, and MSD igniton system. A simple cam swap and that motor makes 450hp, and weighs less than an LT1....

Last edited by Haggar; October 11th, 2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:21 PM   #16
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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:22 PM   #17
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Even with the 6.xx ratio and 2.33 9" the 465 would shift like a th350 running 3.5ish gearing with a 3500 stall.
That is not true at all.

On paper, the gearing is the same maybe. Reality, not even close. The SM465 is going to have to shift too fast. The TH350 will can tune the converter for a favorable STR and shift extension to work with your vehicle.

The TH350 would be fun to drive and blow the doors off the SM465.


I seriously question the fit of the SM465 in a 2wd S10. My brother in law has a 80s S10 with a 12:1 355 and TH400 with slicks sitting about 500ft from me right now. Can't see that huge bitch of a trans fitting.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
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That is not true at all.

On paper, the gearing is the same maybe. Reality, not even close. The SM465 is going to have to shift too fast. The TH350 will can tune the converter for a favorable STR and shift extension to work with your vehicle.

The TH350 would be fun to drive and blow the doors off the SM465.


I seriously question the fit of the SM465 in a 2wd S10. My brother in law has a 80s S10 with a 12:1 355 and TH400 with slicks sitting about 500ft from me right now. Can't see that huge bitch of a trans fitting.
Posting for this guy is like giving death row inmates air to breath. It's just a waste of your time.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 07:21 PM   #19
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Granted, if 1st gen SBCs are your thing, use one. The Gen II isnt usually worth it. But if you want power, lightweight, and great fuel mileage, you can't beat a Gen III/IV
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Old October 11th, 2012, 07:29 PM   #20
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How 'bout a 4 banger diesel for mileage. Make an old school Volkswagon 1.6 diesel mate up to a trans of your choice and run a normal rear end. You'll get good mileage and about the same stunning acceleration as using a V8, boat anchor trans, and modest rear end ratio.
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