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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:15 PM   #1
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Default Plastic injection molding help (mold changes)

Here is my issue: Prior to a mold being pulled all the air, hydraulic and water lines need to be unhooked to remove the tool. When that happens all the water that is left in the lines and in the tool spills all over the floor and the machine. Currently we try and mop it all up, but that still leaves a slippery mess for dust and dirt to stick to and also a slip hazard. So does anyone have any ideas or do something now to prevent the mess? Is there a way to plug all the fittings until I get it back to the tool room where it can be drained out??
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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:19 PM   #2
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ball valves just before lines enter/exit the tool.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:20 PM   #3
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^ This, or solenoid water valves...
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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:22 PM   #4
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let me google that for you
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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:41 PM   #5
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Seriously? I would fire you for making the mess.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 03:51 PM   #6
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Old September 19th, 2012, 04:01 PM   #7
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Put high pressure quick release fittings on in the lines/molds.

Look here
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Old September 19th, 2012, 04:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Put high pressure quick release fittings on in the lines/molds.

Look here
X2 for sure
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Old September 19th, 2012, 04:46 PM   #9
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There is not a lot of room for solenoids or valves. A valved quick connect will restrict flow.

I design molds for Chris, so come up with something easy.

Last edited by GearDrive; January 16th, 2013 at 06:16 AM.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 05:17 PM   #10
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There is not a lot of room for solenoids or valves. A valved quick connect will restrict flow.

I design molds for Chris, so come up with something easy.
couldn't you just leave a 12" section of the above hoses with a ball valve dangling from each that has a quick/connect fitting to the main hoses?

that way the tool, with all of the 12" sections can be transported to a properly drained/clean room where the die/mold/tool can be drained, and those 12" hoses with the quick release fittings applied to the new/dry tool/die/mold?
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Old September 19th, 2012, 05:18 PM   #11
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Can you fit in an air fitting somewhere in the system before the mold, to blow any remaining water back into the system before disconnecting?

How frequently do you need to disconnect the lines?
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Old September 19th, 2012, 05:35 PM   #12
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you can oversize your couplings to not reduce flow.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 05:41 PM   #13
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There are many solutions. How much can you spend on the fix?
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Old September 19th, 2012, 05:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
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There is not a lot of room for solenoids or valves. A valved quick connect will restrict flow.

I design molds for Chris, so come up with something easy.
??? A valved quick connect doesn't seem to reduce the flow in our AmKus (jaws of life), and that is one that place a reduced flow is life and death... Or as previously mentioned, over sized quick connects.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 06:07 PM   #15
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Pm catman he can hep you with the quick disconnects.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 07:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyeBread View Post
couldn't you just leave a 12" section of the above hoses with a ball valve dangling from each that has a quick/connect fitting to the main hoses?

that way the tool, with all of the 12" sections can be transported to a properly drained/clean room where the die/mold/tool can be drained, and those 12" hoses with the quick release fittings applied to the new/dry tool/die/mold?
Yes, we could but I think Geardrive just added those as a possible solution, we typically dont build molds that way. We normally have one large in and one out to reduce time making the water connections like you can see in his drawing towards the top left side of the mold. Geardrive can correct me if I mispsoke.

Quote:
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Can you fit in an air fitting somewhere in the system before the mold, to blow any remaining water back into the system before disconnecting?

How frequently do you need to disconnect the lines?
Haggar, the water comes in and out of the mold via a temperature control unit and circulates the water at a certain temp, so we cannot blow anything backwards into the system. We unhook the temp controllers and loop them so water can circulate and wont burn up the pumps.

We unhook the lines at every mold change which is anywhere from 5 to 15 mold changes a day between 26 machines.

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There are many solutions. How much can you spend on the fix?
I am open to all options, I dont have an endless budget, but I will pay for a solution that works.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 07:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
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??? A valved quick connect doesn't seem to reduce the flow in our AmKus (jaws of life), and that is one that place a reduced flow is life and death... Or as previously mentioned, over sized quick connects.
That's the difference between pressure and volume. Imagine a valved coupler on your fire hose. The pressure will go up and the volume will go down. You rely on the volume of water to put out the fire.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 07:38 PM   #18
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Why won't ball valves work?

They will close off the flow preventing (most) of the water from escaping while still letting the water recirculate and maintain temp. You will loose the water from the ball valve to the fitting. But, as far as simple, cheap, and effective a ball valve that can handle the proper pressure in the lines seems like a easy fix.

Just make sure all the ball valves are open after hooking up the fittings before beginning a new part.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 07:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
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That's the difference between pressure and volume. Imagine a valved coupler on your fire hose. The pressure will go up and the volume will go down. You rely on the volume of water to put out the fire.
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Why won't ball valves work?

They will close off the flow preventing (most) of the water from escaping while still letting the water recirculate and maintain temp. You will loose the water from the ball valve to the fitting. But, as far as simple, cheap, and effective a ball valve that can handle the proper pressure in the lines seems like a easy fix.

Just make sure all the ball valves are open after hooking up the fittings before beginning a new part.
I hate to admit it, but Cerial is rite. He used way too many words but his is wright.

But you (GearDrive) are rong. You will not lose any volume with a ball valve, especially the proper sized ball valve. Quit being silly. Ball valve is your cheapest, simplist solution. Or spend more money on quick disconnects. You will love them.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:03 PM   #20
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I'm trying to figure out how volume is reduced with properly sized quick disconnects. They are used on everything.. Pneumatic, hydraulic, and water.
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