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Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:00 PM   #61
CSFJ
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I used the valspar implement paint on my jeep. finished it about a year ago. shot it with a $15 harbor freight gun, used the hardener with it also. Used ppg dp 90 for primer. It's held up pretty well, but seems to scuff easy ( needed to walk on the fender to reach the winch one day) .
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 11:28 PM   #62
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ya ive been prety impressed with it too and all idid was sand down the old paint good wipe it off and spray it on
i did a couple coats and it is showing no signs of coming off
except where it has come in contact with trees and branches
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Old September 24th, 2012, 12:54 AM   #63
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Another solid day on the truggy.
Cage is finished except for some 1" square tubing I gotta add for some braces and bedsides. I also turned truck around so I can start on dropping motor in and building from suspension. I rolled the d44 under to see how much of the stock crossmember needs to be trimmed and to curb my curiosity on what its gona look like in a few weeks.







And here is my tire carrier. Need to add the tabs to the top rails that the pins go through still.
3.5" tube fits in center of rim,plate will hold rim down and the bar tires bedsides together.


Starting on radiator mount tomorrow and picking up all the other tabs I need for mounting aluminum for bedsides and fenders.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 06:17 AM   #64
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I have had very good results using a single stage urethane. It's tough when handling trees and a little time with polishing compound once a year keeps it really shiny. Buy a $60 paint gun from Lowes and teach yourself to spray, it's not that hard to do.
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Old September 25th, 2012, 12:23 PM   #65
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OK guys this is a plead for help.

I started having a problem with some welds yesterday and Im really stumped as to why.Everything up until yesterday was welding fine but now that the bed is all acked into place and I started to finish weld all my joints I ran into a problem I havent seen before.

If Im welding on the top or sides of a joint it welds beautiful ,but as soon as I try to weld the bottom side of the tube my wire drips or runs back to my tipand just splatters all over.Welds look like complete shit and there is zero penetration. Changing wire speed,voltage or gas pressure hasnt made any real difference.

I bought a brand new Hobart Handler 140 for this project and has been flwless up till now. Im on the same 11lb spool of .023 wire I started with.Regulator is set at 15-16psi while welding with a 80/20 mix. I have cleaned all tubes of oil best I can before tacking into place with brake clean and spray degreaser after each tube was notched.

Im confused if its still a oil contamination issue at my weld joints,the my equipment is set up or something Im doing.
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Old September 25th, 2012, 02:02 PM   #66
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I have the same issue too, I talked to a pipe fitter, it's the oxygen from inside the tube that's being pulled out by the "burn" of the weld. Make your highest to lowest welds first that seemed to help, if your rich and wanna do what the pipe fitters do and drill a hole in the tube and run a dedicated line of argon/co2 mix in there it will weld great. I know the feeling tho man, I have Been welding for a long time and never had that problem untill tubing, best thing you can really do is the parts people see, stitch them, where your sealing off, just clean it up with a pencil grinder and reweld over it. That's what I did. Hope that helps ya...

I love old rangers, I've had quite a few of them. Sturdy little trucks!
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Old September 25th, 2012, 02:42 PM   #67
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Looking good!!!!!
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Old September 25th, 2012, 03:47 PM   #68
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I welded to to bottom, leaving the center open on the bottom to do last, worked fine for me.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 02:30 PM   #69
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Other than the welding, any more progress?
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 02:44 PM   #70
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I would avoid using brake clean to clean stuff before welding. Can turn into chlorine gas and really fukc you up if there is still some there when you start to weld.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 02:48 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89yjon View Post
Other than the welding, any more progress?
Actually only thing I did to it this weekend is finish the tire carrier. Spent all weekend working on the turbo Ranger getting it ready for a trip to Milan in the next few weeks.

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I would avoid using brake clean to clean stuff before welding. Can turn into chlorine gas and really fukc you up if there is still some there when you start to weld.
I recently read that myself. Noted.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 04:32 PM   #72
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Most places sell non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 09:23 PM   #73
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If you use brake clean just make sure you get the shit with out tetracloroethylene.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 10:39 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mboies View Post
If you use brake clean just make sure you get the shit with out tetracloroethylene.
We Use the auto zone stuff that's good
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Old October 16th, 2012, 11:27 AM   #75
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Any updates?
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Old October 16th, 2012, 11:51 PM   #76
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Got rear rad mount done,winch plate is welded in, finished front core support,cut out stock crossmember under the motor and power washed the 5.0 so I can set it in the chassis tomorrow.
After motor is in I will build a new crossmember tighter to the oil pan so it will clear the front diff under full stuff.
Sat in my chair just staring at it for a while today tryin to come up with a good lookin front bumper/fairlead mount.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 10:37 AM   #77
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Time for an overdue update.

Been workin hard on it and now things are moving fast! The motor is now in and after 3 different sets of mounts Im happy with how it sits in the truck.

Frame cut to clear headers then plated to restore some strength.There will be more tubing for the coilover hoops goin in so it will be much stronger when Im done.

Had to cut out the stock crossmember since it was only 3" away from axle sitting at ride heigth. Made this one that tucks up much closer to the oilpan and clears the axle alot better.

I also got the winch plate on and finished the core support. Mounted and plumbed the powersteering cooler.

Bed floor made and jack mounted.

Interior tore out so I can make a cross bar behind the seat for the 5pt belts to mount to and Im doing roll on bedliner on the floors instead of carpet.

Rear rad mount finished and all rear cage work in done now. Ready for paint.




Have cardboard cutouts made of the fenders and bedsides that I will take in to Ron MIller Racecars to be cut out of aluminum. This week I plan to finish swapping the power brake parts in,coat the floors,paint the bed and start running wiring and plumbing.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 10:42 AM   #78
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Looks good, but you might consider mounting the jack on the other side of that bar. It will make a lot of contact with trees or whatever out there and could easily be damaged.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 10:49 AM   #79
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Love the cage. looks really good yet functional and not overly done. looking forward to seeing the aluminum added.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 11:17 AM   #80
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The jack is in 14" from the outside of the fender. If Im rubbing it on trees I have bigger problems!
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