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Old August 14th, 2012, 07:04 PM   #1
fabguy01
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Default Longfield abuse

so i am planing a light weight buggy with 37"s and either a small block or turbo 4 banger, to keep the weight down i would like to run yota axles but im worried about how much abuse the longfields can take.I've heard alot of hear say but dose anyone have any first hand experience with a setup like this????
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Old August 15th, 2012, 11:13 AM   #2
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mike r and aj have been running them and put them through some serious abuse. the knuckle is the week spot after the shafts.best bet is a trail gear axle,or longlfields and trailgear knuckles.aj has a full trailgear under his toyota and it is a damn tuff setup.
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Old August 15th, 2012, 11:33 AM   #3
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Yea what erin said. Mike runs longfields and aj runs trail gears dirty 30s. Both have broken them but takes alot, but both companys have awsome warrenty if you do break 1. Gotta get the hub gears to go with them tho, that becomes the weak link with the strong shafts and if it breaks and then strips the stub shaft thats not warrentied.

Then next weak link is the gears. Mike runs stock 4.10s with pretty good luck, aj runs 5.29s cryo treated and has replaced his fair share.

Knuckles are descent but need the arp studs with adding the 5th stud or better route aj runs tg 6shooters with the tg plus3 housing and jumps his runner alot with good luck.

In the end you can build the axle plenty strong for a light rig like your talkin, just gonna get pricey
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Old August 15th, 2012, 03:12 PM   #4
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I agree as well, the axle shafts (Longfield 30 splines in my case) aren't the weak point. I ran them with 38.5s on heavy beadlocks, with no issues. Broke the R&P being stupid. I ran all the other normal goodies: ARP knuckle studs, ARP hub studs, 4340 hub gears, etc. Only breakage I ever suffered in either axle was the ring and pinions (4.88s installed by previous owner).


I have been thinking about another set of toyota axles under one of my Jeeps, but I hate the turning radius.
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Old August 15th, 2012, 03:28 PM   #5
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I am runnin trail gear dirty 30's in my front axle the hub seemed pretty chinsey even after I rebuilt them, the knucke is a deff weak point along with the ball, have to remember these are basically a chunk of sheet metal on steroids, I don't think you will have a problem considering if your buggy is quite small light, you can save yourself some issues on double checking EVERY run, your torque on the studs. That's ussualy the downfall, another thing is find a nice light weight wheel, every ounce helps...don't be afraid though. Theres plenty of them out there and are plenty strong for a mini truck axle.
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Old August 15th, 2012, 08:11 PM   #6
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I had a diamond axle with both balls gusseted top and bottom, it wasn't going anywhere.

One of the things with the studs that people make mistakes on is the tonque. They put in ARP studs and then torque them to factory torque. The reason that you want the ARP studs is that their increased strength lets you torque them down much higher. That creates more clamping force which keeps it all together. With good factory cone washers, mine never loosened up on me. I got my torque values from Brian Ellinger @ Front Range/Diamond axle.
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Old August 15th, 2012, 08:34 PM   #7
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from what ive heard the 4.10s are the way to go strength wise so i will be sticking with them . I am going to make my own steering arms and will be adding some beef to that area. what usualy fails on the knuckle ball? dose it just deform and make for a sloppy fit? it looks like i can add alot of strength to the the knuckle ball where the knuckle dosent contact.i will add all the good studs and drive flanges to my list. Have you guys had issues with the trunion berrings? i see trail gear offers a a kit to upgrade to bushings. thanks Nate
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Old August 16th, 2012, 01:45 AM   #8
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What happens is the ball gets pushed up and sqweezes the birfield in there and it is harder than fukc to get out after the fact. Or you tear the steel and it just breaks off. I'm not running arp's but I do have tg hi-steer and new cones, like as stated torquing them is very important, and making sure you don't use the shitty inner axle seal, it's chinsey, and you end up with gear oil in your knuckle, basically, truss the top, gusset the knuckle ball, add dirty's or long fields, and chromo flanges and your on a good start, I've watched AJ jump his toy and still held up,
And for the trunion eliminators thats up to you, they are $y and I didn't see the need to buy them. Just make sure you use good koyo bearings and races. And pack them good to.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 11:31 AM   #9
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Its always a hard call on 4.10s vs 5.29s... 4.10s will stress your tcase and driveshafts more. Best thing to do is read all the stuff on pirates toyota and formula toy forums and you can pretty easily see what the limitations and capabilities of the axles are.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 11:50 AM   #10
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Yea if you run a toyota case with 410s def need the chromo output shaft. 529s can get away with stock case stuff.

Mike has broken a couple trinions off, think aj has to. Mike bought marlins big bearing kit and aj runs tg solid trinnion and loves it

Yea do the nice shafts and truss the housing alot. Run it till you bend it badly then save up and buy the tg housing. Ajs airs his out with the new housing and yet to bend it. Bent stock ones a few times
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Old August 17th, 2012, 03:46 PM   #11
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thanks for the help fellas, I hope to have enough parts collected so that i can start bending tube befor the snow flies. I'm leaning torwards the cobalt/hhr ss turbo ecotec. gmpp has a kit for about $650 that bumps it up to 290 horse 340 ft lbs. i,m a thinkin it would be sweeet with a t-5
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Old August 17th, 2012, 07:12 PM   #12
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I love my ecotec. Make sure it's an 09...they have vvt and it makes a huge difference...I have a n/a Balt w/header and pully along with hptuned and I'm amazed at the torque and balls it has, it's not dragster but I eat up 5.slows all day...I'd like to see where you go with this. Should be a fun project.
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