Torsion lift? - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

Bensett004 · August 9th, 2012, 09:31 AM

hey guys im sure this has been beat to death, I have searched all over and cant seem to get a straight answer, I have a 96 gmc k1500, the back has 2 in blocks and the front t bars are about half cranked, i bought som new torsion keys, is it worth it to put them on or just crank mine up more? I have also been seeing some stuff about a ball joint flip? if you guys could help it would be great!

TboneK1500Z28 · September 18th, 2012, 12:07 AM

get a lift, get rid of the whole harsh torsion ride. but to answer your question aftermarket keys dont seem to do alot if anything at all. sort of a waste of cash in my books because ive never seen an imporvement on how much someone can crank them to.

ball joint flip i assume is possible, probably not the greatest thing for suspension geometry and youll end up have shitty cv angles

beedle4 · September 18th, 2012, 12:17 AM

x2

even with keys the max "safe" lift is about 1.5" any much more than that you will speed up wear on the cvs and bjs

TboneK1500Z28 · September 18th, 2012, 12:23 AM

invest in a lift, decrank tbars. put on 35's save money because you wont be replacing ball joints and what not.

wave_crusher · September 19th, 2012, 07:49 PM

Yes, don't bother with the keys, they cause way more harm than what you gain from them. If your dead set on going the cheap route for a lift just finnish cranking up your torsion bars, make sure you jack up the front of the truck so both tires are off the ground.

Crank up both bars all the way, then measure the distance from the top of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well. It's going to be a different measurement between both sides, so adjust the sides (crank or de-crank) so you get ask close the same measurement as possible. drive the truck for a couple days and check the measurement again, the bars will settle down a bit (about 1/4" or so). The most your going to get is 1" maybe 1.5" if your lucky.

If you do put the new keys in, you can go up to a max of 3" after you crank up the new keys all the way. That's all the new keys allow you to do is index the bars more; just so you know if you do that you will be replacing ball joints, and wheel hubs about once every 3 months (yes, that is not an exaggeration ) and tires about once every 10,000 miles. And you be left with a truck that looks like it has 500lbs in the back end, so instead of a front end squat, you'll be stuck with back end squat

Edit: Get a Real Lift! lol

cerial · September 19th, 2012, 08:37 PM

Sounds like it is time to break out the cutting wheel and BFH. Screw lifting it, you don't need that stress. Cut out the rusted fenders, Pound up the inner wells, install larger flares, then place some larger tires under there or just enjoy the added clearance.

It will look better and you will be less likely to end up on your door.

deerebowtie · September 19th, 2012, 08:39 PM

body lifts suck, but a 3" and some trimming you can tuck 35"

edit: if you go this route the body mounts are likely fawked due to rust, and that will require added effort. There was a complete 6 lug 14 bolt semi float and other required lift components floating around here for something like 600$

wave_crusher · September 20th, 2012, 07:06 PM

Body lifts are ok....I have one on my truck, it's not a nice looking as a suspension lift but it still does a ncie job. When i actually get the gumption to i'm going to take mine out.

I have a 1996 K1500, with a 3" body lift and I fit 35's just fine. I do have my torsion bars cranked up, just the stock ones, and coil over shocks in the back. Cheap, but effective and it doesn't look to bad.

When I actually feel like spending the money I would like to have a 6" suspension lift, no body lift and run 35's. I'd feel better in the long run but for know i'm content with how it sits

TboneK1500Z28 · September 20th, 2012, 09:10 PM

im personally not a fan of a body lift without a suspension lift or sas.

Beyerle07 · September 21st, 2012, 10:56 PM

personally i would cut straight to the chase and do an sas on it andbe done by the time you spend money and time on a ifs lift you coul have paid for a sas swap. i went ifs and wish i would have just done the straight to begin wih

wave_crusher · September 22nd, 2012, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beyerle07

personally i would cut straight to the chase and do an sas on it andbe done by the time you spend money and time on a ifs lift you coul have paid for a sas swap. i went ifs and wish i would have just done the straight to begin wih

Only go SAS if your actually going to turn it into a nearly dedicated wheeling rig...a proper ifs lift will do most weekend warriors just as much as a solid axle would, and it's a lot less work

If you plan on going to rock crawls a lot or bombing through a giant mud hole every day then spend the time and money and go SAS.....if your just going to do some light to medium wheeling weekends and when you get bored, go IFS, you can get a great 6" IFS lift for about $1,000. Your going to have that much in parts for the SAS alone

sandman101 · September 27th, 2012, 04:36 PM

I'd go with a RCX rough country 6" lift and be done with it. I have a solid axle conversion on my truck which i DD and offroad and i love it personally. Before that i had the RCX lift and really didn't need the sas i just wanted it.

August 9th, 2012, 09:31 AM	#1
Bensett004 Newbie Join Date: 08-09-12 Location: burton mi Posts: 4 iTrader: (0)	Torsion lift? hey guys im sure this has been beat to death, I have searched all over and cant seem to get a straight answer, I have a 96 gmc k1500, the back has 2 in blocks and the front t bars are about half cranked, i bought som new torsion keys, is it worth it to put them on or just crank mine up more? I have also been seeing some stuff about a ball joint flip? if you guys could help it would be great!

September 19th, 2012, 08:39 PM	#7
deerebowtie Unchained Join Date: 05-04-09 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 2,007 iTrader: (23)	body lifts suck, but a 3" and some trimming you can tuck 35" edit: if you go this route the body mounts are likely fawked due to rust, and that will require added effort. There was a complete 6 lug 14 bolt semi float and other required lift components floating around here for something like 600$ Last edited by deerebowtie; September 19th, 2012 at 08:42 PM.

September 18th, 2012, 12:07 AM	#2
TboneK1500Z28 Senior Member Join Date: 09-22-11 Location: Clinton Township Posts: 328 iTrader: (1)	get a lift, get rid of the whole harsh torsion ride. but to answer your question aftermarket keys dont seem to do alot if anything at all. sort of a waste of cash in my books because ive never seen an imporvement on how much someone can crank them to. ball joint flip i assume is possible, probably not the greatest thing for suspension geometry and youll end up have shitty cv angles

September 18th, 2012, 12:17 AM	#3
beedle4 Senior Member Join Date: 09-26-08 Location: waterford, MI Posts: 1,249 iTrader: (10)	x2 even with keys the max "safe" lift is about 1.5" any much more than that you will speed up wear on the cvs and bjs

September 18th, 2012, 12:23 AM	#4
TboneK1500Z28 Senior Member Join Date: 09-22-11 Location: Clinton Township Posts: 328 iTrader: (1)	invest in a lift, decrank tbars. put on 35's save money because you wont be replacing ball joints and what not.

September 19th, 2012, 07:49 PM	#5
wave_crusher I'll Direc your TV Join Date: 01-20-09 Location: Big Rapids, MI Posts: 3,806 iTrader: (15)	Yes, don't bother with the keys, they cause way more harm than what you gain from them. If your dead set on going the cheap route for a lift just finnish cranking up your torsion bars, make sure you jack up the front of the truck so both tires are off the ground. Crank up both bars all the way, then measure the distance from the top of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well. It's going to be a different measurement between both sides, so adjust the sides (crank or de-crank) so you get ask close the same measurement as possible. drive the truck for a couple days and check the measurement again, the bars will settle down a bit (about 1/4" or so). The most your going to get is 1" maybe 1.5" if your lucky. If you do put the new keys in, you can go up to a max of 3" after you crank up the new keys all the way. That's all the new keys allow you to do is index the bars more; just so you know if you do that you will be replacing ball joints, and wheel hubs about once every 3 months (yes, that is not an exaggeration ) and tires about once every 10,000 miles. And you be left with a truck that looks like it has 500lbs in the back end, so instead of a front end squat, you'll be stuck with back end squat Edit: Get a Real Lift! lol

September 19th, 2012, 08:37 PM	#6
cerial Insomniac Join Date: 09-06-08 Location: Middleville,MI/Newburgh,NY Posts: 1,309 iTrader: (2)	Sounds like it is time to break out the cutting wheel and BFH. Screw lifting it, you don't need that stress. Cut out the rusted fenders, Pound up the inner wells, install larger flares, then place some larger tires under there or just enjoy the added clearance. It will look better and you will be less likely to end up on your door.

September 20th, 2012, 07:06 PM	#8
wave_crusher I'll Direc your TV Join Date: 01-20-09 Location: Big Rapids, MI Posts: 3,806 iTrader: (15)	Body lifts are ok....I have one on my truck, it's not a nice looking as a suspension lift but it still does a ncie job. When i actually get the gumption to i'm going to take mine out. I have a 1996 K1500, with a 3" body lift and I fit 35's just fine. I do have my torsion bars cranked up, just the stock ones, and coil over shocks in the back. Cheap, but effective and it doesn't look to bad. When I actually feel like spending the money I would like to have a 6" suspension lift, no body lift and run 35's. I'd feel better in the long run but for know i'm content with how it sits

September 20th, 2012, 09:10 PM	#9
TboneK1500Z28 Senior Member Join Date: 09-22-11 Location: Clinton Township Posts: 328 iTrader: (1)	im personally not a fan of a body lift without a suspension lift or sas.

September 21st, 2012, 10:56 PM	#10
Beyerle07 Senior Member Join Date: 06-04-12 Location: Freeland/mi Posts: 103 iTrader: (0)	personally i would cut straight to the chase and do an sas on it andbe done by the time you spend money and time on a ifs lift you coul have paid for a sas swap. i went ifs and wish i would have just done the straight to begin wih

September 27th, 2012, 04:36 PM	#12
sandman101 Senior Member Join Date: 09-25-09 Location: Byron, mi Posts: 154 iTrader: (1)	I'd go with a RCX rough country 6" lift and be done with it. I have a solid axle conversion on my truck which i DD and offroad and i love it personally. Before that i had the RCX lift and really didn't need the sas i just wanted it.