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Old July 26th, 2012, 06:51 PM   #21
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o yea also is the 300 worth twin sticking? or is that only useful if I want to run bigger offroad gears than street gears?
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Old July 26th, 2012, 06:54 PM   #22
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o yea also is the 300 worth twin sticking? or is that only useful if I want to run bigger offroad gears than street gears?

Twin sticking will allow you to do front digs... which can be useful off road and You can run in low range with just 2wd with it then.

Also makes it much easier to shift in and out of 4wd.

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Old July 26th, 2012, 07:00 PM   #23
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ok yea just found out that the 400 was a natural bolt to the 360. Not stock though for my year, but I already knew my buddy swapped it in.




cool thanks




I know they're both about equal....... but is the 400 or the 350 better? I've read that the 350 is more power efficient and the 400 takes more to get going?? Also heard that about 500 hp, the 400 wins, but not sure.
The transmission is stout and many guys that build cars for drag racing build up these trannys. If you were running high horse power then you would have to do a valve job on it and beef it up... but in stock form it will be more then sufficient for your 360.

I would only consider a 350 if you were going to swap engines as you would have a lot of money tied up on adapters as there was not a 350 made that directly bolts to an AMC engine.

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Old July 27th, 2012, 05:11 AM   #24
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...and you've already got the TH400 adapted to the Dana 300...in my opinion the nicest feature of your project so far. The TH400 uses a little more horsepower to operate but it is stronger than the TH350. Even if you wanted to swap to a GM motor, you could swap your TH400 guts into a Chevy or BOP TH400 case.

Quit worrying about the trans & t-case and focus on the rest of the Jeep.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 06:31 AM   #25
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...and you've already got the TH400 adapted to the Dana 300...in my opinion the nicest feature of your project so far. The TH400 uses a little more horsepower to operate but it is stronger than the TH350. Even if you wanted to swap to a GM motor, you could swap your TH400 guts into a Chevy or BOP TH400 case.

Quit worrying about the trans & t-case and focus on the rest of the Jeep.
X2.... What you have is great stuff.
Now work on something that needs it.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 10:22 PM   #26
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...and you've already got the TH400 adapted to the Dana 300...in my opinion the nicest feature of your project so far. The TH400 uses a little more horsepower to operate but it is stronger than the TH350. Even if you wanted to swap to a GM motor, you could swap your TH400 guts into a Chevy or BOP TH400 case.

Quit worrying about the trans & t-case and focus on the rest of the Jeep.

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X2.... What you have is great stuff.
Now work on something that needs it.
ok cool well I just wanted to make sure I actually knew what trans/tcase I had and be positive it was what I wanted and was durable so thanks.

Not to unnecessarily continue on the discussion of the above, but along the lines of the usefulness of a twin sticked 300 like tweak mentioned........ should I bother?

Here's why I ask. I'm taking the engine/trans/case off of the frame in the next week so I can get the frame blasted and then paint it. (rabbit trail.......would i just want to use a flap disc on the cover of the tcase to clean it up??) So while I'm at it and it's all apart, should I add the twin stick?
Thanks

Last edited by 82cj7ltd; July 28th, 2012 at 10:49 PM.
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Old July 28th, 2012, 10:49 PM   #27
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also looking for a bit of advice on the process of painting the frame.
I dont want to spend $349123489712398 on my paint, but I do know prep is important. I'm planning to get everything including leaf springs blasted, spray inside of frame with frame coat, rustoleum clean metal primer for a few coats, get the rear shackle brace piece that quadratec sells welded on, prime that too, and then rustoleum high performance (whatever it's called)enamel.

The only reason I will have the shackle braces welded AFTER the rest of the frame has been primed is so that I can avoid any slight surface rust that would start in the few days after blasting.

I'm not sure if welding where primer is releases lead or is poisonous or what. I could either primer the rest of the frame (just 1 coating to keep it safe) and then weld......... or prime it all........ weld........ prime again since it's all melted off.
I may not have explained this well enough so I'm sure over the next couple posts I can make it clear if you ask any questions.
Thanks for the help
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Old July 29th, 2012, 06:42 AM   #28
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The twin stick option will not change any gearing.
It is used to control front drive and rear drive independantly.
Yes, a flap disc could be used to clean most of it pretty good.(can't get into tight corners)You could duct tape over the seal areas and plug the vent then carefully sand blast it.
Prime your frame as soon as it's been blasted. Otherwise it will start to flash rust immediatley.
You will not get a good weld over primer. You will need to sand clean the area that you want to weld, then reprime after it cools.
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Old July 29th, 2012, 09:06 PM   #29
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oh yea I understand it wont change the gearing....... i just didn't know if when you said work on something that needs it meant that a twin stick upgrade, even though it hadn't been mentioned wasn't worth it. I realize it is more useful for wheeling than on the street, but as a whole do you think it's a worthy upgrade?

and ok yea perfect I was going to prime it all just to protect from flash rust cause the friend welding it wouldn't be able to do so for a day or two afterwards. Then I would sand it down, weld it, re-prime it and then paint it. got it. thanks
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Old July 30th, 2012, 12:42 PM   #30
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Twin sticking the D300 is a worth while upgrade, but is used more during serious wheeling. So, as you are just getting started in the offroad scene, it is not a necesity and I suggest spending the money and time elswhere to get your rig wheeling sooner.
Get it ready to wheel, get out there and have fun learning the sport.
I'm not saying that as a newbie you couldn't use the twin stick. I'm saying alot of guys get lost in trying to build the ultimate rig right out of the box. Instead just get it out and wheel. You'll learn much more about valuble experiences by starting with a mild rig.
Upgrade later as you learn the need for them. plenty of guys have no need for the ability to front dig.

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Old July 30th, 2012, 09:56 PM   #31
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worked on the jeep most of the day, with some help and machinery I got the engine trans and t case out as well as the driveshafts!!
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 09:27 PM   #32
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Well...... I wish I'd had my camera when I pulled the engine/trans. That was exciting for me. Other than that I pulled the driveshafts and exhaust pipes but with no camera I don't remember what it looked like anymore.

This time I brought one! Goodbye shocks & mounts, trans skid plate, sway bar, rear shocks, motor mounts, and whatever else I did haha.

Few pics here. Looks so bare with no motor. especially so without the trans skid plate.





















Wont be able to work on it again for a week or so. Next step are the axles, then I'll be getting a new frame to put this all on!

This is a few steps beyond my typical project
Feels like I'm moving forward!

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Old August 7th, 2012, 10:52 AM   #33
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Why are you getting a new frame, that one looks prety good actually. Thought you were going to sandblast it and paint it?

So far, everyone is correct with your Drivetrain, What I want to know is if you have 1-piece or 2-piece axle shafts in the AMC 20 rear axle.

Those shackles need to go, get a good set for the frt and rr and throw those booty-fab things in the scrap pile.

I agree with NOT twin-sticking the t-case. not worth it unless your going to be getting into the rough stuff. spend the money on a locker for the rear, thats more important.

You have your work cut out for yourself, keep at it.
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Old August 7th, 2012, 11:12 AM   #34
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harbor freight 15$ grinder, some of the 5.99 wire cup/wheel kits, a full face shield, and rent a high pressure steam genie. thats around 110$ and 4-5 hours vs a whole new frame.
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Old August 7th, 2012, 08:35 PM   #35
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Why are you getting a new frame, that one looks prety good actually. Thought you were going to sandblast it and paint it?

So far, everyone is correct with your Drivetrain, What I want to know is if you have 1-piece or 2-piece axle shafts in the AMC 20 rear axle.

Those shackles need to go, get a good set for the frt and rr and throw those booty-fab things in the scrap pile.

I agree with NOT twin-sticking the t-case. not worth it unless your going to be getting into the rough stuff. spend the money on a locker for the rear, thats more important.

You have your work cut out for yourself, keep at it.

was gonna blast it. wrote it all out then the tab closed somehow, so summary is
blasting- $380, paint-$110, custom fab steel for back?? can't do but is around $150. was going to buy the braces for the rear that you weld on which are $110 each. so im up to at least $540.

blast it myself it is a long drive (3 hrs) needs $110 in gas, $90 to blast for two hours (includes blaster, compressor, breathing system and material for 2 people) + the 120 for paint and then minimum of $150 for the fabbing, was gonna get the braces for $220 but minimum price is $470. really $520 tho, cause i cant fab.

getting frame with rear patched already everything including body mounts in good shape and painted for $400. i will mist it with acetone probably and put another coat of enamel on, but still under $450 so it's the best deal.
will still keep my frame and eventually do all that blasting to get my money back out probably.

have to figure out if they're the 1 pieces or 2 next time I go. is it not visible in the pics? the 1 pieces are better right? I have some closer up pics of the axles, not sure if that would help.

so what exactly is wrong with the shackles? is that not the shackle reversal mod? will probably replace them but I don't see what's wrong.

I was likin the idea of twin stickin the tcase so I could get fwd, but yea it's probably not worth it.
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Old August 7th, 2012, 08:44 PM   #36
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harbor freight 15$ grinder, some of the 5.99 wire cup/wheel kits, a full face shield, and rent a high pressure steam genie. thats around 110$ and 4-5 hours vs a whole new frame.
yea I started on that route and already had a good ryobi grinder. got some 30 grit flapdiscs too and a couple of the wire cup things and those wirecups just bent up and burnt out so fast and really didn't do too much other than smoothing the frame up a bit and cleaning it. they didn't really get into the rust, just cleaned it up and made it smooth. the steam cleaners were pretty pricey to rent in my area. after a bunch of those and a few hours doing that and minimal progress, decided that was a bad idea. especially since I still have to paint after that and one half of the frame would have ended up flash rusting before I finished taking the other half down to the steel again.

and I needed the special cutting wheels to cut the welds of the rear cross member (bumper) and the crossmember in front of the tank off, cause they were both junk. ended up being more time and money efficient to buy a finished. one. still would have had to buy those $220 pieces or get some local welder that I haven't found to fab up a strong brace for the rear and weld it on.

all doable, but would have taken way more time. maybe if there were a few people grinding away it might work.......

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Old August 8th, 2012, 07:13 AM   #37
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CJs came with the front spring shackled at the front end of the frame.
A shackle reversal would move the shackle to the back end of the spring and mount the front end solid.
Your shackles do look like they are most likely home built but I don't think they are bad.
They are made of heavy enough material and don't look excessively long. I just don't see the need to spend money on replacing them now. I would just take the grinder to them and round off all the corners a bit. Take them all off to grind. Then stack them atop each other to check that they all look even.

To check your rear axle for two piece design, look at the end between the wheel studs. If it is flat in the center, you have one piece shafts. If there is a little cap that sticks out in the center, it covers a large nut that holds the stud flange onto the splined shaft. I dont mean the wheel center cap that may be in the wheel. Take a wheel off to look. Yes, one piece design is much stronger but you don't need to run out and spend the $230 on one piece shafts yet. Two piece are fine untill you spin a spline (probably after you add a locker). Remember, on a tight budget, only replace/upgrade what needs replacing when it needs replacing. Stock parts will take you to alot of fun places.

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Old August 8th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #38
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CJs came with the front spring shackled at the front end of the frame.
A shackle reversal would move the shackle to the back end of the spring and mount the front end solid.
Your shackles do look like they are most likely home built but I don't think they are bad.
They are made of heavy enough material and don't look excessively long. I just don't see the need to spend money on replacing them now. I would just take the grinder to them and round off all the corners a bit. Take them all off to grind. Then stack them atop each other to check that they all look even.

To check your rear axle for two piece design, look at the end between the wheel studs. If it is flat in the center, you have one piece shafts. If there is a little cap that sticks out in the center, it covers a large nut that holds the stud flange onto the splined shaft. I dont mean the wheel center cap that may be in the wheel. Take a wheel off to look. Yes, one piece design is much stronger but you don't need to run out and spend the $230 on one piece shafts yet. Two piece are fine untill you spin a spline (probably after you add a locker). Remember, on a tight budget, only replace/upgrade what needs replacing when it needs replacing. Stock parts will take you to alot of fun places.
ok, so using the don't fix it unless it's broken phrase, I might as well keep my front manual locking jeep hubs rather than buying warn ones for now? they do work fine, but the jeep label is peeling off them a bit. i guess i could probably find a sticker for it.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 08:56 AM   #39
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You don't think you need that sticker to wheel it do ya? ha ha
When something wears out or breaks, that is the time to decide to rebuild it, replace it, or upgrade it.
If the drivetrain parts were working, run them. For now simply repack bearings and change out fluids. Maybe consider changing out any seals that drip.

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Old August 17th, 2012, 07:19 PM   #40
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You don't think you need that sticker to wheel it do ya? ha ha
Well its been a while...... but I've been pretty busy recently. Plannin on picking up my new frame tmw. Then I get to start all over again.



When something wears out or breaks, that is the time to decide to rebuild it, replace it, or upgrade it.
If the drivetrain parts were working, run them. For now simply repack bearings and change out fluids. Maybe consider changing out any seals that that drip.
Yea I know that's right, but there are some things that I feel like I should be doing while everything is apart and easy to reach. I guess locking hubs dont fall into that category, but re-packing bearings and making sure the axles and other drivetrain parts are dialed in...... Definitely.

Btw, my mechanic told me that my rear amc 20 axle shaft housing was the 2 piece and showed me the welded pieces. Bit of a bummer that it isn't the 1 piece, but oh well. I doubt i'll break it easily, and if i do.... Well.... I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
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