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Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:07 AM   #1
Mihlfeldl2005
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What to paint axle with?

Getting to the point in my axle project that I need to start considering what I'm going to finish these things with? Sense they're going to get a little bit of abuse I've been debating finishing them with a bedliner/line-x style paint or maybe POR 15?

Any suggestions?
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mihlfeldl2005 View Post
Getting to the point in my axle project that I need to start considering what I'm going to finish these things with? Sense they're going to get a little bit of abuse I've been debating finishing them with a bedliner/line-x style paint or maybe POR 15?

Any suggestions?
Black spray paint = easy touch up.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:43 AM   #3
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any experience with the POR 15 stuff? at $150 a gallon I'm somewhat hesitant to try it
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:46 AM   #4
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Por15 is for rust. Spray paint works, easy to touch up.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:47 AM   #5
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Since the general consensus is spray paint. Any tips on priming it?
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:54 AM   #6
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I bought a gallon of gloss black rustoleum and use a spray gun put it on (brush also works) thick easy touch up and it seem to last great and I think it was $25 per gallon
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
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I bought a gallon of gloss black rustoleum and use a spray gun put it on (brush also works) thick easy touch up and it seem to last great and I think it was $25 per gallon
I did the same thing on a frame and axles. Used RMax reducer and the stuff was bullet proof.
I've always had good luck using rustoleum. It's not just for rust.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 09:59 AM   #8
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POR is great very tough and a gallon is dam near a lifetime supply, i did my 21ft tow truck bed with about a quart
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 10:16 AM   #9
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I use Blitz black, You can get it from John Deere dealers. It's a semi gloss finish and you can get it in Gallon or spray cans. $35 a gallon, my whole mud truck and tow rig is sprayed with it, along with my axles and underbody. The stuff is very tough and easy touch up.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 04:58 PM   #10
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POR15 is sensitive to UV rays, keep it out of the sun light.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 05:23 PM   #11
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POR 15 is not UV stabilized (as stated). It also is really, really sensitive to proper surface prep. Also - do not work from the can - pour it into something else because it's very sensitive to contamination (i.e. a few drops of sweat can ruin a quart). It also needs humidity to cure properly (i.e. don't use a good, dry paint booth).

I did my D44 with POR 15 (after cleaning and wire wheeling the snot out of it) and then topcoating with Rustoleum Hammered. Tough as hell and looks pretty good.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 06:27 PM   #12
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If it's a wheeling rig, I wouldn't go the POR-15 route. If it's a nice "showy" but sometimes wheeled vehicle, it may be a different story. I have used POR-15 a lot in the past, and have a lot of experience with it.

For your purposes, I'd go with Krylon black.

I'm more into "showy". I used a combination of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, along with Extreme Chassis Black Primer & Topcoat on this Dana 44. The skull was painted with Duplicolor wheel paint (metallic silver).

Craig

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Old July 24th, 2012, 07:56 PM   #13
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Well I took my knuckles and caliper mounts into work today. Sand blasted the hell out of them. Took my about two hours thanks to the shitty booth we had and the decade old sand. I hit them with a base coat of self etching primer and then a couple of coats of flat black rustoleum. I'll be using the same process for the everything else.

Its a pain in the ass waiting for everything to dry though!

Let me know what you think!

Checking to see if I wanted blac


after a little work


Primed!


Knuckles and calipers drying


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Old July 24th, 2012, 10:58 PM   #14
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Rebuild

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Old July 25th, 2012, 09:51 PM   #15
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Got the knuckles, caliper brackets, and spindles back on tonight.






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