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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:37 PM   #121
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Fuel volume. Has it been checked? If you have access to a gauge with a bleed off valve you can check it. Basically open the valve while running. You should have enough pressure and volume to keep it running while also filling a 20oz bottle with fuel in 45 seconds.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:39 PM   #122
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I doubt its vapor locking, sounds like your still having fuel supply problems. Not sure if the 2 fuel pump thing is good. The best most reliable way to do it is to use the silverado fuel pump. I messed around with it for awhile and had issues until i built a custom mount for the stock fuel pump that went into my Aero tank. All problems solved. when it does start to mess up, induce a little fuel into the throttle body and see if it dies or starts to straighten up. use a little carb cleaner while its running rough see if it gets better. Ive also seen one injector get heated up and pull too many ohms and kill all the injectors on that bank. A bad O2 sensor would also cause a symptom as this. The mass air flow would too. Not liking trying to push fuel through another fuel pump and 2 working together, not something that i would rely on.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:50 PM   #123
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the exhaust route got changed when i rebuilt this truck. it now runs over the frame rail that the fuel lines are running in. so thats why i was thinking vapor lock
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:51 PM   #124
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:54 PM   #125
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Is there a reason your not using the stock pump. clearance or something? With a LS swap its just not worh trying to make something work other than the stock pump. I know its been done but theres nothing like using the stuff thats meant for the system.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:56 PM   #126
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the exhaust route got changed when i rebuilt this truck. it now runs over the frame rail that the fuel lines are running in. so thats why i was thinking vapor lock
Naw, i think your good with the protection of the rail, the heat has to be pretty good and alot, like under the hood heat. I wouldnt concentrate on vapor lock as much as volume and pressure.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 08:57 PM   #127
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Naw, i think your good with the protection of the rail, the heat has to be pretty good and alot, like under the hood heat. I wouldnt concentrate on vapor lock as much as volume and pressure.
X2 plus like i said i would look into the drive by wire sensors
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:03 PM   #128
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X2 plus like i said i would look into the drive by wire sensors
Ill also add that there is a TSB on the wiring plug that plugs into the DBW throttle body. The wire breaks inside the insulation close to the plug, the recommendation is to change the pigtail. Usually this puts it into limp mode but idles perfectly just wont acclerate.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:05 PM   #129
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i didnt have a GM stock pump setup. this motor ran great when i bought it with an inline e2000 pump. but i had to change fuel tanks when i 4 linked it. which meant a top feed instead of the bottom feed of the original tank.

right now i have the stock 6.0 truck pump mounted in my fuel cell and it still was not putting 60lbs to the fuel rail. thats why i put my inline pump back in just as a test to see if it would put it to 60lbs. and it did.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:08 PM   #130
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Also you may be able to rule out the TB/pedal if you have a scanner and an OBDII port. When it is giving you the problems, clear any codes in the system and see if it goes away. My Hemi was going into limp in mode because of an F'ed pedal, but that was throwing a code. Still, you could clear it with the scanner and it would run fine for about 15 minutes then back into limp in we would go.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:15 PM   #131
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scanned it tonight and it showed zero stored codes
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:20 PM   #132
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scanned it tonight and it showed zero stored codes
Anything in the "pending codes" spot?
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:20 PM   #133
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Did u check the throttle % on a scanner as u slowly push the pedal to the floor?
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:21 PM   #134
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U may have a "flat spot" in ur pedal sensor
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:24 PM   #135
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A good free test would be to just unplug the oxygen sensors and see if it continues to do it. It will run in open loop, it'll just throw codes for the sensors. You could rule out that if the problem persists. The noisy pump could be a problem, could be getting hot and not pushing as good the longer it runs. Spray carb cleaner when it runs bad that'll tell you if its a lack of fuel.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:24 PM   #136
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Gotta say that I am leaning towards vapor lock then. I put one of those cheapo analog pressure gauges on another car so I could keep an eye on pressure while running just to make sure my pump was still working. If you can mount one somewhere would would obviously see a drop if the fuel vaporized and you lose pressure.

Kenny Wayne Sheperd had this problem on his Charger that was built by a pro shop with an aeromotive (iirc) pump mounted very close to the tank, downhill and no where near the exhaust. Still vapor locked on him badly. Pretty sure he had an in tank pump put in after a failed attempt to get to the power tour this last year.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:32 PM   #137
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I typed out a long detailed response but it was lost in the interwebs. Pm me and we can chat via voices if you wish.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 05:49 AM   #138
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When I had DBW problems it threw codes. Nick, what year is your engine? I have a spare DBW setup you can try if it's a 2002-2005.

I still believe it's fuel delivery since you could not get 60 psi out of a stock in-tank fuel pump. I have a spare pump you can try too. Is the in-line pump getting hot?

What are you using for a fuel regulator and how is it routed?
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Old February 20th, 2013, 07:26 AM   #139
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Quote:
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A good free test would be to just unplug the oxygen sensors and see if it continues to do it. It will run in open loop, it'll just throw codes for the sensors. You could rule out that if the problem persists. The noisy pump could be a problem, could be getting hot and not pushing as good the longer it runs. Spray carb cleaner when it runs bad that'll tell you if its a lack of fuel.
Or since you have a scanner, look at the stft's when it's running like shit.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 08:59 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by chevotass View Post
i didnt have a GM stock pump setup. this motor ran great when i bought it with an inline e2000 pump. but i had to change fuel tanks when i 4 linked it. which meant a top feed instead of the bottom feed of the original tank.

right now i have the stock 6.0 truck pump mounted in my fuel cell and it still was not putting 60lbs to the fuel rail. thats why i put my inline pump back in just as a test to see if it would put it to 60lbs. and it did.
Gotcha, so if you can get the factory pump to work good then thats what you will run?
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